Breadboarded 74HCT7046 PLL very unstable

Thanks for refreshing my memory. Here's one that you drill (or use pre-drilled), then cut the pad...

...Jim Thompson

--
| James E.Thompson, CTO                            |    mens     |
| Analog Innovations, Inc.                         |     et      |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems  |    manus    |
| Phoenix, Arizona  85048    Skype: Contacts Only  |             |
| Voice:(480)460-2350  Fax: Available upon request |  Brass Rat  |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com |    1962     |
             
I love to cook with wine.     Sometimes I even put it in the food.

Still does, I think; search for 'pad cutter', but beware, I see a hefty $69.45 price at DigiKey.

Michael A. Terrell Inscribed thus:

That name means nothing to me. I do recall that mine originally came from Radio Spares here in the UK and went by the description of "Do-nut Drills". They came as a set of three in a small wood box. I vaguely recall that they all had a 1mm drill and cut a 1mm wide track with 5,

6.5 and 8mm outer diameters.

I should still have them... that is if I can ever find them among all the accumulated boxes of junk that seems to constantly breed and inhabit the dark and dusty corners of the garage.

--
Best Regards:
                     Baron.

.

..

e

If you have thin one (or two)sided pcb material, you can cut it with scissors to your needs exactly. If they are thin enough you can use them for small smd parts also.

Buy them? Superglue? Doesn't that stuff melt easily?

I solder them on, after cutting a pile of 1/16" squares from a thin strip of stock.

You even see a strip from the avalanche transistor to the PFN connector (top left BNC). Most visible is the +100V supply coming from the red wire, top right, to the ceramic disk, 22k resistor and choke.

Tin the substrate board, then float the chit on top, it sucks right down and becomes firmly soldered in place. You need an iron hot enough to do this, which isn't hard to come by.

Tim

--
Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk.
Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

Vector is a US company that makes protyping materials.

shows one, with a description.

--
For the last time:  I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

Michael A. Terrell Inscribed thus:

Thanks Michael, That looked good... Until I saw the price. Choke choke. :-)

--
Best Regards:
                     Baron.

Michael A. Terrell Inscribed thus:

Hi Michael, I found this...

Not quite the same, no handle. Apart from not having a spigot to ensure centering should do the job. And the price is right !

--
Best Regards:
                     Baron.

If you take care of it, it will last a lifetime. :)

--
For the last time:  I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

I can't tell from that picture. It looks like it's for drilling into ceramic tile. The tool I mentioned cuts a grove into the copper clad to isolate it.

--
For the last time:  I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

Michael A. Terrell Inscribed thus:

Yes it is for drilling ceramics and glass etc. That one is 6mm outside diameter with a 4.25mm bore. I've just ordered some 6mm, 8mm 10mm ones. I understand that the wall thickness is about 1.7mm on all off them. Its identical to the one described as "New Jersey Islander Pad Cutter"

I can't find the link to the PDF at the moment. I can send you a copy if you want.

I hope that the shank is solid so that I can drill a hole all the way through to hold a 1mm drill to form a spigot.

--
Best Regards:
                     Baron.

No need. I'm not doing much prototyping anymore. I am having a lot of trouble holding on to most tools these days. :(

--
For the last time:  I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

Michael A. Terrell Inscribed thus:

Sorry to hear that. I'm about to call it a day work wise and am in the process of chasing a hobby that I never really had time explore !

So tools that help are very useful. Especially tools that can be converted, modified, adapted to do the things that I want to do at minimal cost. Time is free if you know what I mean.

--
Very Best Regards:
                     Baron.

Carpal Tunnel & nerve damage in my hands.

I just bought one of these:

to make it easier to work at my computer. One finger on top of the programmable knob allows me to scroll through long pages without lots of clicking a mouse. My hands don't tire out as fast, and I can work faster, when I can work. :)

It can be programmed for six functions per program, including simulating a sequence of keystrokes.

Time is free at some points in your life. :)

--
For the last time:  I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

Michael A. Terrell Inscribed thus:

Ooo ! Not nice.

Apart from being attractive, useful and interesting, it looks like it could be fun to use ! I like the idea of minimizing wrist movement. Regretfully it only works with Windows/Mac machines.

True, very true...

--
Best Regards:
                     Baron.

Actually those PowerMate knobs work just fine on Linux -- someone wrote a driver for it.

I only know this because they're popular with the guys who use GNURadio as a tuning knob. :-)

Contact Griffin and see if they will release the information needed to write a custom driver.

I first used one to edit video on an I7 based Win 7 computer with 8 GB of RAM and an almost empty 1 TB hard drive. It was purchased by a local business to do industrial video editing.

--
For the last time:  I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

Joel Koltner Inscribed thus:

Hi Joel, Useful tidbit of info. Thanks:

--
Best Regards:
                     Baron.

Baron Inscribed thus:

Hi Michael, I got the diamond drills that I ordered today. I took a micrometer to them and measured the OD, wall thickness and bore. I obtained the following measurements:-

OD, Wall, Bore, Shank

6.55mm 1.25mm 2.92mm 5.5mm 8.72mm 1.26mm 3.8mm 6.02mm 9.22mm 0.92mm 3.8mm 6.02mm

The OD is the nominal outside diameter. The Wall is the measured width of the thickness of copper removed at a depth of 1mm. The Bore is the nominal diameter of the hole through the length of the Shank, and the Shank is the measured diameter of the part held in the drill chuck.

I was a little surprised that the drills were made from a casting of Mazak Alloy, die formed rather than machined. I had hoped that the shanks on these would have been solid so that I could have machined an accurate 3.2mm bore for a carbide drill shank to form a spigot. As it was only the 6mm one could be drilled out. I then Used a collar and

6BA grub screw to secure a 3.2mm X 1mm carbide drill to use as a spigot.

These Diamond drills are cheap and do the job intended with little hassle. For hand use a spigot is a must. Very handy for a pin or wire ended component.

--
Best Regards:
                     Baron.