Anyone hear of a 120V clothes dryer? (2023 Update)

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote: =========================

** In the 15 unit block where I live, that much capacity covers 5 units.

IOW we have 100A, 240V three phase coming in from the street. So each unit has one 16A power circuit and one 8A lighting circuit.

How so ? Hot water and stoves all run on gas. The "shit hits the fan" if someone adds a clothes drier.

...... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison
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I didn't think of that. Perhaps it is connected to gas. The stove is gas. I've assumed they are propane, but I haven't looked for a tank in any of the homes I've stayed in. The one apartment I've been in had an electric stove. I will check when I get a chance.

They tend not to heat water in a water tank like we do here. I've seen solar hot water and instant hot water heaters on the showers. Never on the sinks other than the apartment which probably does have a tank somewhere. In the current house I was thinking they had a hot water heater because the water was always hot enough... until I took a shower at 2 am when the water was barely hotter than the cold (where "cold" is in name only). So it must be solar hot water and cooled off pretty good at night. So no hot showers when you first get up!

They don't seem to insulate the hot water tanks on the roofs. They look like 50 gal drums which is probably what they are. A panel perhaps 4'x4' to 6'x6' is what they put on them to collect the heat.

I haven't seen it rain for more than two days in a row yet. I think even the hurricanes pass through as fast as that. They just make more of an impression than a simple rain storm. There are still signs of Maria, but you might not realize that's what they are if you aren't told. I did see one large building in a rural area shaped like a huge A frame. Much of the sheet metal was missing and I suppose will not be repaired at this point. It's in a farming area, so probably not much incentive to take it down either.

Reply to
Rick C

This is two units stacked, rather than a one piece washer/dryer. Kenmore I believe. I saw a closed Sears/Kmart the other day near Luquillo. So far that's the area I like the most, but I'm still looking, exploring. I'm in Guayama at the moment. They have a very nice plaza in town. Virtually every town has a central plaza with at least one church, the town hall and other buildings of prominence. This one is large with both concrete and grass with many interesting trees. They have what look like vines, but they seem to meld into the trees up in the branches, so maybe some sort of extra roots? Remind me of being in a cypress swamp.

Reply to
Rick C

It saves how much water...? You can only save what is being used by hand washing which isn't much for five plates and some silver. If hand washing gets them clean, how can the washer get them "cleaner"? Is this like a volume control that goes to 11?

Reply to
Rick C

That's a funny way to put it and not actually correct. The purpose is to reduce the work required to move the heat and make the cold coil, cold. The air will end up at a higher temperature because the unit is producing heat. It is also extracting heat from the moisture in the air. So the net is a temperature rise. With the cooler air blowing over the hot coils, the pump works less hard to drive the process.

Reply to
Rick C

do you have a dishwasher? try it

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

I understand how refrigeration works, if the humidifier uses power it heats the air. Evaporating water took energy, condensing it back to liquid adds energy to the refrigerant

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

This one says 15 amps, so it requires a 20 amp circuit? Or are they specifying the circuit capacity? They are not at all clear on the electrical requirement, but they give tons of info on running the duct! Nothing about the connector. But they do say the power cord is included! Just no details on what to plug it into.

Reply to
Rick C

There is also the latent heat of evaporation of the water that is condensed. By turning it into liquid a bunch of heat is extracted from the moisture and released as heat which raises the temperature of the air. The energy used to evaporate the moisture in the first place didn't raise the temperature of the air. That's why it is called "latent" heat. But once you remove that heat from the moisture and release it into the air it does raise the temperature. There's also the heat extracted to bring the water temperature below room temp as an unavoidable by product. That also ends up in the air through the coil. If the water drains away the temperature of the air remains higher. If the water is in equilibrium with the air the heat is reabsorbed. The heat in the water is not trivial. That's the main event at this circus!

Reply to
Rick C

fire investigators probably come across this often.

Open the door and read the name plate. Specs will be there.

To decode the outlet lookup these NEMA receptacle designations

5-15R 5-20R 6-15R 6-20R
Reply to
Cydrome Leader

Fridges are small potatoes because a 120V, few amp refrigerator would need to run maybe 96 hours a day to equal what your heat pump furnace uses in an hour. I looked it up once and I think it equates to about 200 watts. A heat pump can use up to 4 kW average through a cold night. You don't need many to swamp the fridge. My electric bill changes from ~$50 a month in the really nice months (no heat or AC) to near $200 when the AC or heat is running at max.

Here you go, "Domestic fridge power consumption is typically between 100 and 250 watts. Over a full day, a fridge is likely to use between 1 to 2 kilowatt-hours (kWh). This translates into a running cost of about $150 per year per fridge." My heating/cooling costs are several hundreds of dollars per year, maybe as much as $1,000. The $50 a month number includes both the fridge and the hot water heater and lights, computers, etc. So clearly the heating and cooling swamp everything else pretty handily.

I suppose if you have a lot of people in your house and use a lot of hot water and keep the fridge door open you can run up those numbers.

Which can be charged from the AC line. Do you ever pay attention to what other people say here? Win has talked about this extensively. I don't recall the length of his commute, but I recall it is short enough that he can charge overnight easily and not use gasoline at all unless he needs to do other driving. I think it was 15 or 20 one way.

It would be ok to discuss stuff with you, but as soon as you think you've found someone in a mistake, you jump on them and start swearing like an idiot. No one who knows what they are talking about has to swear. It makes you sound like a moron, which is only appropriate part of the time... such as now.

Reply to
Rick C

No, the heat of evaporation (condensation) ends up in the cold coils as well as the heat extracted from the water which is below room temperature now. This ends up in the hot coils and in the warmed air stream even if it is simply because the unit warms up and radiates, conducts, convects the heat from the rest of the device.

Now that I think about it, if you use a heat pump to dry clothes, it will be backwards from a standard room dehumidifier. I think they would first warm the air to pass through the dryer and pick up moisture. That air would be run over the cold coils to extract the water and return the heat to improve efficiency of the unit. Yeah, I think this sort of dryer could be run without a vent since the moisture is collected and drains away!

Reply to
Rick C

Try what? How do I measure the water the dishwasher uses???

Reply to
Rick C

Rob snipped-for-privacy@example.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@xs9.xsall.nl:

I would make a machine that takes longer but uses far less energy.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

I think I took a look, but the light is poor and the print is small. I don't care that much. I'll try again in the daylight.

I'm familiar with NEMA. I'm not crawling around on my hands and knees and unplugging someone else's equipment. The cables are all behind some obstructions and there's something that could be an outlet expander OR could be a "thing" to turn a pair of outlets wired with the two halves of a 240V circuit to present a 240V outlet.

When I return I will take a look to see if the copper tube I saw is a water line or a gas line. That would tell all! It's something like 3/4 inch I think. I thought it was water, but might be gas!

Reply to
Rick C

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** No you wouldn't. Such a machine would use even more.

...... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

afaik it is required to use less than 5 gallons, EnergyStar ~3 gallons those who tried it came to the conclusion that doing the same load by hand take 5-10 times as much

and the water is hotter and the detergent more effective so the dishes get cleaner

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

We're between seasons; the dehumidifyer is a 24/7 version that runs all year long (although it cycles less often in the winter, of course) to protect my shop tools from rust and keep the wood humidity more constant. The geothermal system has a few vents in the basement to help with temperature.

Reply to
DJ Delorie

20Amps would be fine, however if the machine is rated at 15A and the outlet is the only connection to the breaker then a 15A breaker should work.

Treat it like a refrigerator, only a single (not duplex) outlet that only goes to a single breaker - either 15A or 20A.

If unsure check with your local electrical codes, my advice is not as a certified Electrician, merely a home electrician who always reads the electrical code books for my province (or state in the USA) when doing work in my home.

John :-#)#

Reply to
John Robertson

Phil Allison snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news:c02a0a62-e0f1-45dd- snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Such as the machine you would imagine.

Not my machine. It would use little energy compared to the current "Get 'em done quick" design schema.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

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