They make these portable dishwashers also, you can wash literally about
5 dishes in them:I'm not so un-ameniable to "women's work" that I can't hand-wash 5 dishes and some knives and forks. Loading and programming the machine probably takes longer, anyway.
but it saves water and things get cleaner ..
A 20A 250V socket (NEMA 6-20) is about the same size as the 15A 120V ones, that might be what you see.
The old standard dryer three-prong plug is NEMA 10-50.
It's not usual to see an extension cord.
With the singular exception of portable dehumidifiers, which are heat pumps but both sides are in the same box - the cooling side dries the air, and the heating side heats is back up. Net result including waste heat - warmer, drier, air.
I'll add the pedantic note that the same amount of moisture in warmer air is a lower RELATIVE humidity (duh, if you think about it) so a pedant COULD claim that a heater makes the air "less humid" while not actually de-humidifying.
To answer the original question - we had a 120v dryer in our first apartment; it was very small and took forever to dry anything. It was the first appliance against the wall when the revolution came.
The so-called "compacts" and the "stackables" are all 120V operation, for reasons of portability and plug and play use. The interior volume is about half that of the full-sized 240V jobs. As for the full size dryers, the heater is the only 240V load, everything else, motor, timer and whatnots are all 120V operation, so the transition is not extreme.
Saving is not something US citizens seem to be concerned about...
Dehumidifiers are not heat pumps. They're more like air conditioners than anything else. Air is drawn through the 32o cooling coil to condense the moisture. From there it is blown through the condensor coil to bring it back up to its original temperature. This keeps net air temperature unchanged. Many of the central air/ heating systems have the same feature if selected by the user. They run the A/C for dehumidification and also the electtic backup heater to bring the air temperature back up to comfort levels. This is under thermostat control, and it only runs the backup heat this way when the air temperature is below the A/C setpoint.
Was gonna say, plan on 90 minute cycle times. That type of dryer is only for people who live in compact dwelling and have no alternative. Otherwise- no way.
not possible, the energy used to drive the dehumidifier (+ whats gained from condensing water) has to go somewhere
26 of them at Home Depot:
Fundamental misunderstanding of how refrigeration works...latent heat of phase change of liquid is absorbed by the refrigerant and pumped to high pressure/ temperature by the compressor for release back into the air stream through the condenser coil.
yes, they recycle the same air through the system and emit a stream of condensate into a drain.
That is obviously false, you gain the latent heat of condensation and also the heat from all the ineficiencies of the machine.
Anyway I think the question was about heat-pump clothes dryers (where you don;'t gain condensation heat because the water was evaporated from the clothes)
The net heat gain/loss across the coils is close to zero,but as mentioned it does take some enegery to run the unit and that is where some net heat gain comes from . I would think that if it takes 100 watts of power to run the motors then you would get a net heat gain of a
100 watt heater if it is a stand alone in the room dehumidifier.There is no big difference in a heat pump and any other device for heating and cooling that uses refrigerent other than the heat pump is reversable by valves so you do not have to turn it around to go from heat to cool. They all just pump the heat from one area to the other.
Depends on how pedantly you define "heat pump." It's pumping heat, just like air conditioners, refrigerators, minisplits, and everything else that uses phase change thermal transfer systems.
But if you define "heat pump" as "that, but reversible"... yeah, most of those things are not heat pumps.
My warm basement disagrees with you. All the power used to *run* the dehumidifier causes heat, which is included in the airflow, so the outgoing air is warmer than the incoming air. Not by much, but it is.
I was told that in Germany no one thinks of heating with electricity using heat pumps. They burn oil or gas. That's not very environmentally sound. I don't know what they use where you are, but in the UK they sometimes do the worst of all worlds, burning gas to generate electricity and using that to heat directly on off hours. Saves on facility costs, but not on carbon emissions.
Energy used in clothes drying is not very much compared to heating the homes. In fact, everything other than heating and cooling is pretty much in the noise for electric usage. Even an EV is small in comparison unless you have a rather long commute. I think Win uses a 120V outlet to charge his hybrid and almost never uses gasoline.
I guess I should have known this would go off topic very quickly.
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote: ===========================
** Fridges and water heaters are the big consumers in homes - cos they are always running and being used. ** Absolute bullshit. ** FFS a "hybrid" is a petrol engine car....... Phil
The heat of condensation is returned to the (cooled) air stream. It is not gained. Unless you care to explain how returning heat you just removed from the air creates a runaway effect. The heat from machine inefficiency is a small fraction of the heat exchange with the humid air.
Of course it is. If your basement is getting warm, you don't have enough ventilation. I assume you're talking about cooling season, so you might consider running an A/C instead of dehumidifier.
All the dryers I've seen are on a 30 amp circuit, NEMA 10-30 used to be the standard connector, but it has no safety ground, just neutral. They are deprecated, but still lots of them in use. I believe the newer standard connector is the NEMA 14‑30. One web site I read says the NEMA code requires a 30 amp circuit for dryers.
They should. Run the exhaust over the cold coils improving the efficiency and removing the moisture from the exhaust air at the same time. That's a win in the humid summer, but in the winter I switch my dryer exhaust to retain both the heat and the humidity. I wonder if building codes allow a dehumidifier dryer to be installed without an outside exhaust?
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