any 1 know where to get a free sharp microwave schematic? (model R310fw) Thanks.

You could draw one up pretty easily, there's only about 10 electrical components in the typical microwave. Even the service manual won't have a schematic for the electronic control board if that's what you're after though.

"James Sweet" wrote in news:vLuti.4723$I64.4038@trndny08:

The schematic was on the inside of the case on my Sharp MW. You're correct about no schematic for the control PCB.

innews:vLuti.4723$I64.4038@trndny08:

The power supply,magnetron, and door switches are all quite simple. Easy to diagnose (imho). Hard to believe that somehwere there isn't a schematic for the display/control board. And I find it harder to believe that the manufacturer of the SMD transistors would take the time to print a number on them and it not be cross referenceable. I've found cross for the good transistors, but the bad one illudes me. Guess it rerally is a throw away item.

innews:vLuti.4723$I64.4038@trndny08:

If you are in the UK, you can get timer panels repaired at QER

Ron(UK)

A schematic exists for the control board, but it will be an internal asset to the company that designed the board. Many thransistors in this sort of thing are house numbered for internal identification. What is wrong woth the unit? You should be able to test components and diagnose the board without a schematic. It's very rare for me to have one for anything I fix.

The unit is question is the display board. The other functions (anunciator, key press, control) all work. Only the display is non- functional (as far as I can tell). The offending part was smoked. I pieced the parts back together to get what i believe is the correct number. That's why I'm unable to tell if it's a PQ40 or PO40 and the "4" is a guess as well. Most of the body(SMD part) was held in place by silocone gell applied for other reasons. My next attempt will to be to try either an NPN or PNP (through hole part) in it's place and see what happens. 3 pins, nine possible combos, 2 types, should only take an hour or so.. That's assuming it's not a vreg, vref, fet, or duel diode..... Sure mis sam's photofacts :))

Trace the circuit, there should be a resistor in line to the base, the emitter will usually be grounded if NPN, or connected to V+ if PNP. A little detective work is often all it takes.

Thanks for the link. Checked them out and they did not have the info i was looking for.

Those sites that spam rarely do.