Don't use magnets. There is no reason to try. A strong enough magnet will warp or snap a support in a Trinitron, or at the very least, magnetize one of the mounting brackets which will require repeated degaussing.
As far as your salvaged degauss coil, they use AC. In the TV, it's hit wi th (generally) 85 VAC* and decays rapidly as the thermistors heat.
*based on 120VAC input.
If you have a variac, wire a plug to the coil and plug it in. Set the varia c for 50 to 60 VAC, plug your coil in and wave it around the front of the T V in a circular motion getting within 6" or so, then, continuing the motion , slowly back away from the TV until you get to a few feet away.
Yes, Trinitron. I should have said that. Maybe even 25 years old. I got it used.
I have heard the bong sound somewhere, but don't remember heearing it with this TV. At any rate, I didn't hear the bong when I turned it on an hour ago, but I wasn't listening for it. I have to go upstairs again.
No, it didn't. I used a medium sized magnet. 1" by 5/8" by
3/8"thick and parenthesis-shaped. I think it was one of three magnets from a picture tube yoke, I guess a color yoke.
It had no effect on black areas and white areas of the screen, but on other areas, it would drag a yellow ring along with it when I held the magnet an inch from the screen and moved it around. Yellow is not a common color on the evening news, so I don't think it fixed anything.
Does all this mean it's not the degaussing circuit?
I put a listing on Freecycle, but to maximize responses, I said I would "list it again in a week or email the donor". This time I got a nice email saying my heart was in the right place, but I couldn't mention anything hinting at giving it back to the guy who gave it to me.
(This is the third time I've tried to borrow something. One of the other two times, the moderator permitted it, and the other time he just refused it, without the compliment and without coaching me on how to get around it. One time was the metal detector (to try to find the corner of my property) and I forget what the other thing was.)
involves cleaning off the kitchen table) I'm saving this one for third, even though it sounds like something I can do"
Haha, sounds like some of my houses.
found a power supply for it, and right now I also can't remember where it is."
You cannot just hook up an internal coil to AC, it will burn up before you can pull it away. Do you have a variac ? You can use that. Just put the coi l in front of the screen, turn it up until you see the raster bend enough t hat there are black spots. you'll see what I mean. Then bring it down gradu ally, like over two seconds.
If you manually degauss it with it on, Don't leave it cranked long, it only takes a second. It upsets some vertical circuits. Also, with a coil out of a set you will not really want to go to 120 volts, those things pull a hel l of alot of amperage. If you go to say 100 volts AC, as soon as you switch it on start bringing it down quickly. Either way should work.
Then just hope the connection doesn't intemittently make and screw it up ag ain.
aperture grill is still in the right place."
An earthquake strong enough to dislodge it would have take the building off the foundation. It gets knocked out when the set is dropped usually, and i t has to drop pretty hard to create enough G force. However sometimes it ju st happens on its own. They try to match the thermal expansion coefficients as well as possible, but you are talking steel and glass here and in fact in a Sony I think a couple parts are cast iron for whatever reason.
iac for 50 to 60 VAC, plug your coil in and wave it around the front of the TV in a circular motion getting within 6" or so, then, continuing the moti on, slowly back away from the TV until you get to a few feet away. "
I didn't realize you had already covered that because of the noise in here.
I differ slightly, I think it would be easier to just gradually lower the v ariac without having to move the coil.
With your way the coil might still burn up, with my way the process might g et screwed up if the contacts in the variac are not in good enough shape.
One time I had a Sony that looked like the colors were interpolated. If you are old enough you may have seen sets like Zeniths in which the grids (tub e) or cathodes (solid state) were connected to those stake connectors which were identical. If you ever saw what happened when thos got mixed up, for whatever reason, this is what this set looked like exactly.
A lightning strike had magnetized the CRT so evenly and strongly that the i nternal degauseer didn't cut it. The external degauseer did nothing. I had to connect the internal coil to a variac and turn it all the way up to what 135 volts, and then brought it down. That fixed it. Everyone had been scra tching their heads on that one.
It was really strange because the purity was actually good, just for the wr ong colors. First and last time I ever saw anything like that.
Magnets aren't good as John pointed out. It's best to keep magnets away from CRTs, including older external speakers which don't have magnetic shielding.
You could use an electric soldering gun (Weller or similar design) or possibly a bulk tape eraser.
I'd done it already by then, but only a little and I'm glad to say it didn't make the picture worse.
I don't have a bulk tape eraser or a Weller soldering gun, but I do have a WEN "75" soldering gun. That's the one in dark red plastic made to look like an actual gun, a revolver, with indentations between the places the bullets are supposed to be.
It has one light bulb at the base of the heating element, but the element doesn't have two separated connections like the Weller does.
Instead it has one thin 2,5" rod, a tube with a heating element and the return wire in it too.
Do you think that is close enough to the Weller??
After my Freecycle request, someone wrote that a table fan will work as a degausser. He wrote "The fan I used had an induction motor** like the ones found on cheap turntables.The magnetism came off the side. It removed the mess a magnetized screwdriver had caused.(nephew: "Look at the neat patterns on the screen!")" Is this a risky idea?
**Basically, an induction motor is any motor without brushes, right? Like almost all small and mediuml fans?
Don't know yet. No time or space to take it apart. Have to make room.
No, I made a special effort to listen. Turned it on several times. I hear a relay click, but the sound is almost the same turning it off and turning it on.
But I don't think this tv ever went BONG, like one other did.
That's added incentive to turn it around and take the back off. Thanks.
The Wen model 75 sounds like a pistol-grip soldering iron, which won't have the necessary magnetic field. The Weller type have a somewhat heavy transformer inside them which creates the alternating field.
Yes, induction motors are those which don't have brushes.. but I don't know what the magnetic field would radiate like, although it may work if you had just a bare motor with a long cord/extension cord so the power could be applied (and later disconnected) far enough away from the CRT.
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