Hmm, Remeber those neon voltage testers with two leads and the bizarre shirt pocket clip? I had one go out on me, showed no voltage when there was some. Whoops.
Now I use one of those ground/wiring testers. I figure it will still light up if one neon indicator fails.
Meters like the T1000 are for quick go or no go test mainly. For what they are mainly used for it does not make any differnece if they are off by even 10 %. For quick tests in an industrial enviroment it does not matter if the control voltage is 115.25 volts when anything from around
110 to 130 volts is close enough. Most circuits will have less than 1000 ohms resistance , many of the motors will show up as an almoat short if the windings are good. Fuses are almost shorts or opens.The Fluke 87 and meters like that are more for electronic tests. The specs on them are very good and will be accurate to one or two decimal places.
When I worked I had access to almost any kind of meter or test set. I often grabbed my Simpson 260 and analog Ampprobe for the equipment that would not start or run. However I would stick the Fluke 'Bananna' in my pocket to check some things like the fuses in a power circuit.
For the instruments where they needed to be measured to less than 1 % out came the fluke 87 or more likely a special piece of equipment that has a Heart interface. That reads signals on the instrument lines.
Yes, I used one very often. One learns to put the leads across a source that should have voltage on it to see if the neon bulb lights up, then put it to the point to test and if the neon does not light up, go back to a point that should have voltage on it.
Bad thing about where I worked there was so many wires in conduit that the neon would light up even if there was no 'real' voltage on the wire. Just induced voltage that if put under much of a load at all will seem to diaspear. It is still enough to shock the crap out of you, especially if wet with sweat.
Actually, it was capacitive coupling between the wires, not inductive.
It can be either inductive or capacitive coupling.
It is capacitive if no current is flowing in the live wires.
Ha, that's like an obnoxious interview question.
Probably perfectly.
cool story.
In America we have fuses and circuit breakers. Check youtube for a video about how they work.
Much more sensible. Guage is meaningless and is the wrong way round, higher numbers are smaller!
There seems to be no standard for doors. You can order about 15 different sizes in the UK, but never anywhere near the one you need.
I use the most sensible denomination for the job. I won't say 600mm when I could say 60cm. And I weigh myself in stone, not pounds.
I meant does it automatically work out if you want to test for current or voltage?
Yes, there's no point in trying to make me a safety conscious snowflake.
No, it's a name that isn't mine, and nothing more. Using your real name means people can find everything you've written on the internet. That's future employers, future wives, members of your family, the police, secret government agencies, ....
So, you chose the moniker. You could have chosen any other moniker, but you thought "commander" was appropriate. QED.
Get a real computer. Never heard of tethering? I'm not going to refer to other messages to work out what you're on about due to your utter incompetance.
Moron. There is no cell service on my home to tether to, General Failure. I have five networked 'Real computers' on my desk. The coax for my broadband was replaced, but they refuse to reconnect me without screwing with my network. Go hump some else's leg.
No cell service yet you're replying to this on your phone? WTF?
No matter what I chose you'd think of something to moan about. Get a hobby.
I'm not at home, Sgt. Shultz. I'm sitting in my truck where there is a usable signal.
Oh, no, not at ALL meaningless! The process of drawing wire is successive reduction in diameter, starting with a rod and stretching/annealing/stretching... the gage for wires represents the number of operations required to get it down to size. That gage is the key to what a pound (or kilogram) of the wire will cost ya.
Sheet metal, similarly, has to be successively rolled down to size from big billets...
The stuff you buy from manufacturers, is sold by manufacturers' representatives, and they will ALWAYS sell these items by gage.
Here in the US, millwork shops can build (or modify) a door to almost any dimension. Prebuilt/prehung doors, in door-plus-threshold assemblies, are the run-of-the-mill construction choice, usually are in stock; those are 'standard' only in that an architect applies some requirements for entry and passage doors (like, can-pass-a-refrigerator).
You think all I do is reply in here?
It's not said in the UK. We can speak our own language correctly.
Learn the difference between a typo and stupidity.
Why make your conversations like jpeg encoding?
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