Extend it where? I think temperature sensing is handled by the battery and/or the controller. Unless the temperature of the shunt needs to be monitored? I think the battery temperature is monitored internally. And the battery temperature sensor is acted upon in the battery and/or in the controller. Your circuit is just an additional load on the drill AFAIK. Maybe because that load is before the controller there might be a problem? Anyways, seems like the meter load would be insignificant.
It displays voltage as ##.##V, current to #.##A with decent accuracy, plus power (Volts * Amps) to 0.1W and the accumulated energy in Watt-hours since the last reset. The Watt-hours consumed in a mile, divided by the battery voltage, gives you the Amp-Hours used.
The battery will be inserted and removed several times per day. Should I put capacitors across the current meter power supply inputs? Anyplace else? What value? Thanks.
The meter's microcomputer stores the accumulated energy value in nonvolatile memory so it doesn't need to be powered continuously. I plugged mine into the nearly dark solar panel a few minutes ago, without a load, and it still shows 1041Wh from when I discharged a battery through it last winter.
The only real electrical consideration is to be aware that the thin wires to the display are directly connected to the battery and could burn if shorted to each other or the frame. I made the connections at the conduit tee fitting that encloses the shunt with in-line fuseholders similar to these:
Just use a decent reader and dispose of DecadentMentalCaseNumeroUno permanently... never see his rants... except, of course, when someone like you feeds the troll >:-} ...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
I'm looking for work... see my website.
He started out discussing this in rec.crafts.metalworking and I don't know whether *he* added sci.electronics.design to the newsgroups list, or whether someone else added it, expecting it to be a better place to get the needed information. If the latter, he may not even have noticed the addition of your newsgroup, just as *you* did not notice rec.crafts.metalworking was part of the cross-posting.
You could add the basics newsgroup to the Newsgroups header, and result in even more vituperation -- especially from those who do not notice the other newsgroups.
And -- you could add a "Followup-To: " to the headers, which would make only the replies to your articles go to the named newsgroup(s), and other replies would still be cross-posted as before, so it is a loosing battle.
Yes, a good shunt down at the motor/battery interface to measure current, and two more leads for the voltage across the motor should allow display of everything he wants. (Actually, three leads would suffice, if done right) But if routed up to the handlebars, while light gauge wire would do nicely to carry the voltage signals up to the meter on the handlebars, I would advise fuses in all wires, in case they get pinched together. (I don't know whether anything is grounded to the frame, but a pinch which cuts through the insulation could get exciting if the wires run along the frame near his thighs.
Enjoy, DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
JT, sorry yeah I should just ignore all flame wars.
I've had this totally crazy (well some is OK) circuit plopped on my desk to layout... make into a pcb. I've become a flunky for the genius, who knows everything, and can't ask for help.
I'm complaining, but if the man writing the checks wants it done.... (I'll post my schematics and you can giggle.) (To be honest I don't have a good idea of what the circuit is doing.. but SNR is being thrown away all over the place. A noisy attenuator/ phase shifter.. Volts in and uV out?? )
I tried three leads so I could exchange the shunt connections with a DPDT switch to read current in the Charging direction. The backlight draws enough current to significantly offset the sensed shunt voltage, which is only 75mV full scale, and 75uV at 0.1 Amp. It really needs separate power and sense wires.
Yes, the shunt has to have a separate high current path with no terminals in common with the sense leads, but also the meter power should not run on the sense wires to limit the meter reading its own power draw since the sense voltages are so small. When I looked at the diagrams for the various modes of wiring none show sharing of the sense and meter power leads.
In this power meter, the shunt is inside the meter enclosure. That means you do have to run heavy gauge wires from the battery to display. I couldn't find anything with similar features and with an external shunt.
It's not too clear on the Amazon page, but is mentioned on the BangGood page as: "Bult-in shunt design, no extra needed" also:
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.