Usually more than 360W, start at nearer a 1000W. I used a 2 HP motor on my go kart, but then under load, the input was 48V at 250+ amps. 250+ because, I pegged my 250 amp meter, so I don't know how much more. Mikek
A golf cart is a wholly different animal from a bike. In my youth (30's ;-) I used to soup-up golf-carts (*) for my uncle who owned a golf cart shop in Sun City, AZ... so that the carts would be fast enough for street use... grocery shopping, etc... I could easily get
30MPH ;-)(*) Electric/Four wheel. ...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
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The touchstone of liberalism is intolerance
On Fri, 6 May 2016 09:08:28 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Gave us:
Do not know what you mean.
Their previous model had better descriptions and a zoomable photo.
AND this thing can actually still be pedaled like a regular bike.
It has real hydraulically activated disc brakes front and rear. It has about $100 worth of tires on it and about $600 worth of Shimano drive equipment and about a $450 front fork assembly. The bike is awesome, and then they added the electric stuff!
Unlike that stupid conglomeration of utter shit between the ears crud that "John Doe" has been wasting his must not be worth much anyway personal time with. Talk about 4th grade level science fair failure material. That guy's mental age needs to do about two decades of catching up with his physical age. Bwuahahahaha!
Especially with that Top post Over Full quote Under (TOFU) Usenet knowledge devoid stupid troll crap he has been posting. And he adds some lame, inane group every time. Be careful if you decide to reply to the putz.
On Fri, 6 May 2016 17:50:50 -0000 (UTC), John Doe Gave us:
You are using a drill motor and removing the ability of the rider to pedal the bike in the traditional way, as in switchable gearing, and you want folks to believe that you have any clue at all as to what "serious use" is comprised of? Bwuahahahahahaha!
Nice try, broken toy boy.
On Fri, 06 May 2016 12:05:59 -0700, Jim Thompson Gave us:
Those had full sized deep cycle lead acid wet cell marine batteries in them too. BIG difference.
Not gonna get any set up like that on a bicycle and not get laughed at.
But I am also sure that YOU on a bicycle, electric or not, would get laughed at.
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote in news:q3tpibd14epldnvpvsjer81lutjfcf54v6 4ax.com:
On Fri, 6 May 2016 22:35:22 -0000 (UTC), John Doe Gave us:
Top posting, group adding idiots in Usenet are retarded.
Currently doing work on BFT.
Sorry, twerp, but you'll have to google it.
Where you don't even need the bicycle, AlwaysWrong.
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote in news:bj7qibp3n792a9krarr7hdiqg1ap5oj32m 4ax.com:
On Sat, 7 May 2016 00:33:06 -0000 (UTC), John Doe Gave us:
I see that you were too much of a pussy to google it. Did not want to be shown up to be the retard that you are.
Sorry, punk, but it is in an engineering capacity. But an idiot like you would have to look that term up as well, since you seem to think that loosely tying a drill motor onto a bicycle is "electronics design".
You would not know what engineering was if it bit you in the ass, boy.
Shit for brains does not 'think'. All you do is emanate stench.
Added a bunch of pictures.
Good acceleration with a top speed of at least 18 miles per hour (I want it limited to 20, so that's about right). Much easier to operate than the first version, using a modified Shimano Revo twist grip instead of a foot operated lever for the throttle control that is like a motorcycle throttle.
Still to determine miles per amp hour. Considering the fact that the less powerful cordless drill (DCD780) still works perfectly after almost one year of use (I'll probably use it to replace my old NiCad drill), I'm confident this more powerful brushless drill (DCD995) will hold up for years.
Strangely and pleasantly there still appears to be no clunking like the first version when applying throttle and when the sprocket catches up to the wheel speed. Maybe it has something to do with dumping the homemade chain tensioner and using a spring tensioned derailer instead. All I hear is the gear case beginning to apply force.
--
I wrote:
I'm writing a magazine article about cordless power tools. I'd like to use one of your photos (or maybe you'd like to shoot one just for the article) and a few lines about your experience. I need it by early next week.
Interested? If so, send me an email to my business email address, which is snipped-for-privacy@techgenmedia.com
-- Ed Huntress VP/Editorial Director Techgen Media LLC www.fsmdirect.com
I housed the shunt in a plastic conduit tee fitting. The separate ground power and sense leads are necessary. It does NOT read reversed current.
--jsw
I would love to have a current meter up on the handlebar. But, besides figuring out the specific wiring for the cordless drill, I'm concerned about sending the current on that long detour.
Might be pricey as it's Fluke, but there are probably cheaper ones out there.
Or does the load current flow through the shunt?
So there is no need to route the load current all the way up to the handlebars and back?
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John Doe wrote:
The 100A model has a separate shunt you put in the negative cable from the motor to the battery, and then run four thin sense wires to the remote display. The 20A one has an internal shunt and is better suited to mounting in the charger. They read current and calculate power in one direction only so you need two if you want to monitor both charge and discharge.
--jsw
I don't think that one has a remote display, though. JD would like to have the display on the handlebars, but does not want to extend the wire on the bike to get there.
After reading... Apparently what they do is place a resistor/shunt on the current path, and they measure the voltage drop across that shunt. So it's not like routing the power all the way up to the handlebars and back.
Obviously measuring current would be very useful. The mentioned product looks good as long as current doesn't go over 100 A.
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