PCP Prototyping

I'm looking into making one-off PCBs at home (I'm in the UK). My interest is in making small boards (say, up to 2x4") that have DIL chips on them (op amps and PICs), along with the usual leaded components. SMD (0805 size) resistors and caps are a possibility. Single-sided to start with, may try double-sided provided I can get the registration sorted.

I've been looking at Maplin's web site, and the following caught my attention...

Etch-resist transfer. Maplin part AB15R, 15ukp for 5 sheets 11x8.5". Laser print foil pattern on sheet, iron onto board, peel away, etch board. Does it work? How fine a track can it make, given suitable etching technique? If the unprinted part of a sheet is cut off an hasn't been heated by the iron, can it be put through the printer again and used to make subsequent boards?

Etching tank. Maplin part N53BY, 40ukp. Clear plastic tank in vertical orientation with capacity for pretty large board (11" high by 8" wide). Looks like it has a thermostatic heater and air pump as used with fish tanks, with an airstone inside for agitation. It's not clear from the photo, but I assume the top is open (could make a cover if needed).

Sodium Persulphate etching powder. Maplin parts MC49D (1kg) and N06CG (100g).

100g makes 0.5L. They claim it takes about half the time of Ferric Chloride. Is it any good? Hazards? How long does the solution keep if stored in an airtight bottle (presumably with some air inside)?

My only misgivings at present concern the etching tank. An aquarium heater and air bits cost about the same, making the tank essentially free. If it works, the can't-build-it-for-less factor would make it a cheap and cheerful introduction However, it's rather large for the board size I envisage, and the vertical heater means that it must be filled regardless of board size - meaning about 2.5 litres of etchant in an arguably unstable shape to do even a 1x1" board. A squat shape, like Maplin part YA38R is much better, but too pricey at 250ukp.

Comments and suggested alternatives invited. :-)

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Melodolic Spielberg
Reply to
Melodolic
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You might want to have a look at my tutorial at

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This covers how to make simple boards using ordinary "Sharpie" felt-tip pens and raw copper-clad board with ferric chloride etchant. Lots of tips about details like drilling holes with a Dremel and dental bur instead of a drill bit, proper etchant concentration, etc.

I've used these methods for many years with good results, even on fairly large boards. Double-sided is a bit trickier, but still worthwhile.

Best regards,

Bob Masta

Reply to
nospam

A variation on the theme of iron-on patterns is over at

Fusing the "Green TRF" material over the toner is supposed to protect the track image sufficiently so as to allow gentle rubbing of the board to remove the waste copper, thus allowing the use of much less etchant.

I haven't tried it (on the to-do list) but have heard good reports. Search the web on "green trf" for several sites that describe their experiences with it.

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Rich Webb   Norfolk, VA
Reply to
Rich Webb

Reply to
purple_stars

On Sat, 10 Jun 2006 12:16:27 -0700, purple_stars top-posted:

It's been said that the same thing can work with any kind of printer, and a Xerox copier. For that matter, hand-drawn on white paper, and copied on a Xerox (or equiv.) should work! The thing that makes the difference is the toner, which is the resist. That's why using coated paper works better

- more toner (which is basically fusible plastic) sticks to the copper. :-)

And, by the way, bottom-posting with judicious snipping is the usual convention on the electronics groups. :-) Please don't take this hard; newbies are always welcome in sci.electronics.basics, but it's kewl to learn the ropes ASAP. :-)

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

The first clay coated papers I used for toner transfer tended to leave a film of clay and paper on the board after soaking. Although the etchant didn't seem to mind, I'd remove it from complex areas with a toothbrush. The toner didn't budge. In fact, with acetone and the same toothbrush it's still tricky to get the board really clean after etching.

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Ben Jackson

http://www.ben.com/
Reply to
Ben Jackson

Every toothbrush I've used in my lifetime has had poly-plastic bristles. They don't play well with acetone.

Reply to
JeffM

Rich Grise wrote: [snip]

i'm no newbie, but i am lazy sometimes lol ...

Reply to
purple_stars

*Great* advice! That is *so* completely on-target!

Ed

Reply to
ehsjr

Staples "photo basic gloss" paper item # 471861

Ed

Reply to
ehsjr

Thanks very much for the pointers, folks. I've decided to give the Maplin Peel'n'Stick transfer stuff a try. It seems like the most straightforward process (print, heat, peel, etch) and the stuff was in a shop a mile away. :-)

While I was there, I was inspired by a plastic box and proceeded to design a little bubble etch tank while in the process of working out what other bits I'd need to make it. Most of the bits came from a pet shop. Here it is...

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Since the etch time could be quite short (5 minutes or so?), I'm going to try pre-heating the etchant.

--
Melodolic Spielberg
Reply to
Melodolic

So, just get a little pad-sized face grinder (to scrape the toner off the pads), and leave the toner there for solder mask. ;-P

Maybe kinda like that little dental tooth polisher thingie...

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

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