right-angle boards

On a sunny day (Thu, 09 Jan 2014 15:50:56 -0500) it happened Spehro Pefhany wrote in :

Yea, as in the valve controller of my old LPG (liquid gas) car. Vibration broke the board lose, and had to switch to petrol. Cold have gone badly wrong if valve had stayed open. Whoever approved that design should have been on Cuba in that free US hotel.

"John Larkin" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Soldering with 60/40 will do as long as the joint will not be mechanically stressed in some way. Otherwise the joint will break down sooner or later. So what solution you will choose, you'll have to make sure the solderjoints will not be stressed. There are special connectors for this kind of connections but even they will need to be connected mechanically and not by the solder joints only.

petrus bitbyter

Dunno, but if he did, I don't doubt he attached both ends.

Sylvia.

Also, adhesion copper to fiberglass is not very good.The solution can be is sanding PCBs to fiberglass and glue it's together using epoxy.

I wouldn't do that. Just use right angle headers or a connector.

--
Failure does not prove something is impossible, failure simply 
indicates you are not using the right tools... 
nico@nctdevpuntnl (punt=.) 
--------------------------------------------------------------

I remember people complaining about those newfangled surface mount parts not properly impaling the board and being clinched on the other side. Turns out it's okay, well, most of the time.

--sp

• With reasonable quantity, the PCB part could be molded as one composite part and the traces incorporated. Add the detector and the connector for finished unit. If quantity is really large, incorporate the connector as a part of the composite unit, add detector for finished unit.

I know enough silver-smithing to say what solder he used would not be fluid at a termerature that FR4 has any hope of withstanding.

soldering is a method of joining metal parts using a metal with a lower melting point than the parts.

the tungsten carbide tips in drill bits and saw blades are soldered on too.

--
For a good time: install ntp

Of course pewter teapots would have had to be soft-soldered. ;)

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 

160 North State Road #203 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

hobbs at electrooptical dot net 
http://electrooptical.net

pewter is almost the same as lead free solder, mostly tin with and bit of copper

-Lasse

Over here it had a fair amount of lead in it.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 

160 North State Road #203 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

hobbs at electrooptical dot net 
http://electrooptical.net

There's many different types, both of pewter and lead free solder and there seems to be some overlap

I don't think they used lead in the pewter for plates, cups and such

-Lasse

The silly thing downloaded and hid itself.

Paint? _Paint_? PAINT????? And lose the unique icky green patina of old circuit boards?

Gasp.

--

Tim Wescott 
Wescott Design Services 
http://www.wescottdesign.com

I want to get a few square feet of FR4 gold plated.

Things like this look great when they're fresh

but they get grungy in a few weeks.

--

John Larkin         Highland Technology, Inc 

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com 
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

Technically those are brazing, which is defined as anything melting over

800F. I find that unsatisfactory, because the difference in melting points seems more significant: tungsten can be "brazed" with copper, but it can be peeled apart much the same as when copper is soldered with tin. Metallurgically, there's something about the filler diffusing into the base metal, or forming intermetallics on the surface, or, something.

Practically speaking, a brazed joint is usually as strong as the base metal, as good as a weld. Regarding PCBs, the copper is so thin, and the bond so much weaker than the solder (for the most part), that even if you could do it, it wouldn't matter.

Tim

--
Seven Transistor Labs 
Electrical Engineering Consultation 
Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com

Definitely not after the recognition of the tomato juice disasters..

Krylon clear overspray will make it look nice over a longer time. BUT try that visual trick with surface that will be handled a lot, and the grungy look you are talking about is absolutely top class beautiful by comparison..

I sanded and lacquered one of my PCB creations right after building it. IMHO, after thirty years of use, it still looks as good as new. The cupric design language is quite distinctive.

--
      __ 
   __/  \ 
  /  \__/ 
  \__/    Don Kuenz 
  /  \__ 
  \__/  \ 
     \__/

Is brazing technically soldering?