right-angle boards

If you must solder, put a length of say 1mm or thicker tinned copper wire in the corner before soldering, and use lead-free solder - 99C or

Cheers

On a sunny day (Thu, 09 Jan 2014 11:56:52 -0800) it happened John Larkin wrote in :

Use a 90 degree header:

Den torsdag den 9. januar 2014 20.56.52 UTC+1 skrev John Larkin:

you could do that, you could even get the boards made with a combination of slot and taps so that you get the alignment right and possibly be able solder on both sides of the disc

other fun use of pCB board:

-Lasse

I've seen that done many times in consumer electronics with large pads to make right-angle connections (such as between a display board and a horizontal board). It could be okay. A perhaps more mechanically sound way is to slot the front board so the other board protrudes right through by a few mm and, maybe, make the signal connections on that side, and the mechanical connection on the back.

It's not so nice getting it off if you ever have to.. but still possible with solder wick and patience.

You might want to put some vias in close to the joint to strengthen it.

--sp

I can't download that for some reason, but soldered-together bits of PC board make good, strong, inexpensive, durable and butt-ugly cases for electronics.

I like the various suggestions you're getting for tabs & slots -- that can only make it stronger.

We'll fixture it for soldering. One side seems plenty strong, with lots of vias of course.

Cool. You could build a roof or a boat from FR4. Or a kitchen countertop. I've used it to patch the side of my house.

strange, I have no problem downloading it

here is a similar design:

though it isn't painted like in the pdf

old school but I wouldn't call it butt-ugly

-Lasse

Here's a picture of one of my prototypes (a receiver) from about 30 years ago. If you look closely you can see three to four soldier spot welds on the tuning enclosure. The tuning enclosure features about three spot welds per joint and is much more stronger than a Bud Box of similar size. My picture also includes a special side-show pertinent to sed. Note the two old school pots dangling off of each side of the main board. :)

Here's a picture of one of my prototypes (a receiver) from about 30 years ago. If you look closely you can see three to four solder spot welds on the tuning enclosure. The tuning enclosure features about three spot welds per joint and is much more stronger than a Bud Box of similar size. My picture also includes a special side-show pertinent to sed. Note the two old school pots dangling off of each side of the main board. :)

Lead solder will get flaky after a few years.

Use silver solder and the copper will peal back before the solder fails.

hamilton

Will it? All the parts on the board are soldered.

True. If we use silver solder, the copper will peel back immediately.

With a single ended mounting like that, I'd have to wonder how it will perform over time. Any vibration of the base is going to make the joint flex continuously, which is asking for a fatigue fracture.

Sylvia.

I don't expect much vibration.

The little breadboard is amazingly strong. Didn't Paul Revere attach handles to teapots with solder?

Conect them with a unshrouded right angle header.

Cheers

Individual components will not receive the torque that the sides of a case receives.

No, Try it, you'll like it. :-)

hamilton

Just picking up a case is more the any individual component receives.

I'm glad someone understands this.

Do you pickup a board by the components, or by the case ?

That would be huge. I need mechanical rigidity, too.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs