** Most customers ( or consumers ) know to use ONLY the wall wart that came packed with the item they bought. Only IDIOTS think you can "plug and play" with such items.
That JL claims to deal with idiots on a regular basis surprises me not.
I also thought he didn't deal with musicians and didn't even like music!
Here's the power supply section of a Korg MS2000 synthesizer, I worked on one one time that somebody had plugged an AC adapter of unknown type into, as I recall the list of f***ed components was long, some bits like the SMT input filter and diode were rattling around in the enclosure, F1 was done, IC15 was done, FU1 was open, fortunately no damage to the CPU or DSP though.
Oh, I swap power supplies freely, but there's the small matter of reverse-engineering the connections beforehand. There's some amusing moments: lots of 13V zeners burn up fuses protecting CD/HD external drives. The +12 for those drives tolerates lots of overvoltage, the zeners and fuses were overkill, and axed perfectly functional (but loose specification) power.
My Samsung television from the thrift store works fine with the right Dell power brick. There's likely never to be a Samsung power brick next to such an item...
** Long time ago, I was sent a Korg analog synth for repair that was the *victim* of a main power accident. A faulty ( home made ) extension lead had exploded a 12 inch length of ground track on the PCB along with a cup full of ICs, tantalum caps, diodes etc. Took quite some time, but I eventually fixed it. I remember the young owner was grumpy about the fee.
A P-channel FET or a series Schottky diode fixes that. I'd never omit polarity protection from any design--even my hand-wired protos have shunt 1N5819s or 1N5823s.
I don't use shunt diodes in products or customer designs--in the low-noise instruments world, it's far from unknown for people to power
24V stuff from two boat batteries in series.
Interesting point, though--it might be a good idea to put an NFET in the negative lead as well as a PFET in the positive one, to protect against shorts from V- to ground. It could be a depletion device to guarantee startup behavior. I'll think about that.
I should add that there's nothing special about the choice of FETs--they're just what came up in the LTspice library dialog. Obviously things like ESD protection capacitors are missing as well--probably 1 uF ceramic from each side of the wart to ground.
I generally use a polyfuse and a big unipolar TVS first thing. That handles reverse voltage and some (not all) over-voltage cases. But I'd rather have the TVS fail shorted, than blow up everything downstream.
TVS shorted can be blamed on the customer!
Bulletproof startup can be challenging.
We hard-ground everything in our boxes and assume that a customer might want to power us from their, usually grounded, roughly 24 volt DC buss.
That's kinda complex for my taste. My zeners do reverse polarity protection, with a polyfuse or such to limit current. Most warts current limit pretty well, cw or burp mode.
I'd love a fast 2-terminal current limiter device with thermal shutdown. We've tried some ic e-fuse parts which liked to blow up.
TCA0372 is supposed to thermal limit but it doesn't always.
Either side of the wart shorted to ground, normal otherwise
Either side shorted to ground, reversed.
I have customers who like to use huge boat/RV batteries to power low-noise test setups, and I have occasionally been guilty of siamesing one wall wart into two boxes, so I assume others are too. The NFET/PFET thing turns off both sides, so no damage or weird behavior should occur.
An extra five tiny parts to do all that isn't bad, I don't think. (All the FETs can be SC-70s, probably.)
Well, with way over an amp worth of output and a small thermal mass, I can easily believe you might melt an output device before the thermal limiter knew about it. Unlikely to be an issue in this case because of the series-terminated outputs.
We often do that too, and used to do it more when we could still get PolyZens, which were a wonderfully complete and compact solution (*sniff**sniff*).
A big TVS can desolder itself and fall off the board if the PCB is vertical.
Most of our stuff has switchers and lots of filtering, and so runs fine off a common power buss. The rail splitter thing is for light-duty use.
I don't usually repair things professionally (probably a good idea), so this one I ended up keeping for myself once it was running again. I bought it off a friend's buddy for $50 in unknown condition other than no power-up.
Sounds like you had to rebuild most of the internal power supply-bits, in the case of this later all-digital Korg product in the interest of expedience I replaced what I could get easily enough from Mouser and then just carefully bypassed the blown 3.3 volt buck, and bodged in one of these:
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with the shutdown pin connected appropriately and it works OK.
I expect some fashion of hypothetical client out there would be unhappy with that as it would then not be "original" (maybe the same type that would be unhappy if I'd charged what it cost to ensure it was.)
But I didn't really feel like messing with 3rd party vendors selling discontinued buck controller ICs of unknown provenance and hope for the best...
Sounds like an application for an SPLD with analog comparators and state machine, e.g.
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They're about 50 cents in quantity programmed. 8 states seems like enough to build a little fault tree that could quickly determine the most common disallowed states (over or under-voltage, reverse polarity, AC plugged in instead of DC) and respond appropriately
** IIRC the damage was mostly in the audio output and frequency generation sections. The Korg synth was correctly earthed, the tube amplifier it fed was using the bad AC lead.
High 50Hz current flowed to mains safety ground via the Korg's audio output jack and earthed PCB traces.
I was thinking something like a 1N00x bridge followed by resistor + zener and float it, connected ahead of a normally-open DPDT relay that's in line with the rest of the circuit.
That plus a dual optocoupler and few other parts seems like it should be enough to detect reverse polarity and AC, and then close the relay once that checks out and over/under voltage comparisons also good
That could work if all the details were right and it wasn't too complex. The uP power need not be floating if reverse polarity were handled right, like a series diode or equivalent... pfet maybe.
It could be a product, a universal over/under/reverse/overcurrent protector. It may as well do the powerup reset function, which is hard to do right.
I'll do the circuit design if you'll program it. You could sell them. One could sell the cpu alone or a little pc board with everything. I might buy some.
That could be a new market, power inlet boards that solve all the problems. One version could include USB-C connector and negotiation. A version might make +3.3 or +-10 or something like that.
It's shocking that nothing like this seems to exist.
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