Best Replacement Wall Wart Source?

If reliability under high temperatures is the primary concern and cost is no object, a Condor or Power One 15V linear or switching supply will run you $50-$100. Not a wall-wart but a little metal framed module. Standard stock at any industrial controls supplier, or Mouser or Digikey or Allied or Newark. Connections are commonly 0.156" headers or fastons but other variants are available.

15V is a stock value.

Tim.

Jameco, hands down. Either linear or switcher. Ten pages of power supplies. You may want to consider one of the framed switchers as they will probably handle the heat a little better.

Jim

-- "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." --Aristotle

"Jim Thompson" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

On 03/17/2009 12:09 PM, Jim Thompson sent:

Hello Jim:

Some suggestions:

1) Purchase another wall wart but locate it in a more favorable climate with an extended pair to the point of use.

2) Purchase an industrial grade 15VDC power supply and place in in an enclosure with a cooling fan.

3) Purchase a direct one for one replacement wall wart and if it takes years to fail, amortize your costs over the years of service.

...aaahh. Phoenix in August.

Pete

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1PW  @?6A62?FEH9:DE=6o2@=]4@> [r4o7t]

That might be a little more "reliable" than I need. This failure occurred after 14 years out there, and it was made in China ;-)

...Jim Thompson

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| James E.Thompson, P.E.                           |    mens     |
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 I love to cook with wine     Sometimes I even put it in the food

So you know how much current it is drawing.

Hmm.. it it a linear one?

The only thing that usually goes in those things is the output cap, so you could slap a quality (eg. 105 or even 125°C 35V) electrolytic across the output-- and it won't have to live next to a cheap hot tranformer so it might last as long as you care about it. Maybe a few dollars from Digikey.

I've had good luck with the Radio Shack switchers. At +125°F, I'd derate the spec'd output.

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Paul Hovnanian     mailto:Paul@Hovnanian.com
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Fast wine, loose cars, old women.

AT those temperatures? Bullshit. They are cheap Chinese barely make the spec CRAP at best.

If you do not STOP your retarded top posting, You WILL be called the total retard that you are for the rest of your life in these groups, you stupid, retarded asswipe.

"Jim Thompson" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

125F is shilds play even for cheapo electronics. What is that 37C? noticable warn that about it.

Just get an oversized wallawrt supply to run your doodybob and locate it in an area with ventalation and you should be fine.

Digikey has 15V wall warts. Around $50 for the Elpac brand and around $20 for he CUI brand.

Most likely the electrolytic in yours has dried up over the years. They don't make 'em as they used to no more :-(

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Use another domain or send PM.

Put it in a fridge.

I like Jameco supplies. Meanwell has been good to me.

greg

Digikey, The CUI stack switchers are pretty good.

Cheers

"Jim Thompson" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

No, idiot. 37C is body temp, 98.6.

Stay out of discussions where you are obviously too stupid to know what the hell you are talking about.

And not knowing temperatures when you are talking about temperature susceptibilities IS a prime example of YOU being too goddamned stupid.

Most such caps last a very short period in a chamber at 85C.

I like the mil-spec hermetically sealed variety myself.

Add 20 to 40°C internal rise to the 50°C ampient and you're going to be lucky to get a few years out of the typical cheap 85°C-rated filter cap.

The main problem is that the e-cap has to live right next to the heat source (thin copper and cheap steel lams).

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

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speff@interlog.com             Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
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He just doesn't give a shit.

Have you broken appart your old one to see what died and how it was constructed?

That will help find a replacement. Maybe you can replace the E-Cap and fix that one.

I design electronics to run up to 400F these are commercial temperature range parts rated for 70C. So don't be too scared about the printed max temperature limit.

Just do what you can to keep the supply from heating up too much above ambient.

You're full of shit.

If you incorporate such parts in a design that you certify to your customers as being capable of continuous 400F operation, they should all sue you.

You're a total retard.

It goes far beyond rise over ambient, dumbass.