prototype

Wainwright is gone. I still have a little stock stashed away in a secret place. I didn't care too much for the adhesive IC footprints (too bulky), but the controlled-impedance strips are very nice. My stock will soon run out. :-(

Jeroen Belleman

I mount them with foam tape, which spaces them up off the copperclad. You can solder wires to the pads (horizontally, not *through* the holes) without shorting.

You can also bend some bus wire into L shapes and solder one side to the coppeclad with the other end sticking up. The adapter drops down over the ground wires and you solder the thru holes. That spaces the adapter up a bit and makes good grounds.

Yup, you have to hack your own copper starting at about 1 GHz.

cutter.

nickel

and

for

When I'm in a hurry I etch my own boards. I usually use double sided FR4 but only etch one side and leave the other side as a solid ground plane. Cutting vero board and using wires is just too tedious for me. Besides vero board isn't very SMD friendly.

re's

hor

can

ground

makes

Fun... what's the cute loopy flower thing in the last picture? (there's two of them.) A delay line? (with taps)? Why the loops?

George H.

.highlandtechnology.com  jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com

ground

makes

It was a test case for a board with a tapped delay line. It started as a "radian engine" circuit but eventually evolved into this:

This is part of the NIF beam modulator system.

cutter.

nickel

and

for

Absolutely, just what I do too.

But sometimes like this:

I think I may, but I purchased two of his books about 6 months ago and I haven't had a chance yet to go through them.

Jon

Thanks, George! Jon

At least one beer. Sometimes you can cut pads with a guilotine style paper cutter like this:

And you can use super glue to stick them on.

Ed

cutter.

nickel

and

for

The blues ones comprise a voltage reference circuit, I am testing it now for temperature coefficient. It in a bud beer fridge which I can switch to cool, heat and off.

Don't know if this works, or for how long, but this is a live plot of the measurements :)

(you'll have to hit refresh to update).

cutter.

nickel

and

for

is

Ooops, try

cutter.

nickel

and

for

is

Who wants hot beer?

Perhaps its customised for the British market?

Looks like maybe 0.04ppm/K.

I think there is some drift going on too, really need to burn the circuit in for a few weeks. And autocal the meter as it's temperature changes.

John Larkin schrieb:

Hallo,

inexpensive tin plating will do it also, but for high frequencies and skin effect gold is better.

Bye

It's scary to think about measuring TCs that small.

ehsjr schrieb:

Hello,

there are also professional cutters like that build for pcb material.

Bye

We have a nice sheet metal foot shear here, which I'm not allowed to use to cut FR4; it wrecks the blades. We also have a cheap, rusty old hand shear/brake/roll thing in the corner that I can use; I have to sort of straddle the shop vac to reach it.

I've never found a glue that will stick to copperclad. Epoxy won't work, silicone won't work, glue gun ditto. Flexible acrylic adhesive does stick.

Try General Cement's 'Pliobond'. (Contact cement) It was used for decades to glue metal to plastic in the Radio & TV repair trade. I've used it for over 40 years to re-attach metal parts that were factory mounted with double sided tape or some cheap glue.

You can buy a small bottle of similar contact cement at hardware stores, and I've seen it in K-mart.

Even though a quart can is cheap, it doesn't last once the can has been opened.

to cut

ke/roll

ac to

tried ordinary superglue?

-Lasse