paper vs. metal and rubber

OK, still looking around. The boot on autozone is not available at store. So, probably buy on-line anyway. Some come with grease and some don't.

Stupid auto responser.

Would that work:

OK, O'Reilly might be possible. With my auto 50 miles away, any auto store other than the nearby autozone is just inconvenience.

Off-topic auto responder.

Did you post any interesting electronics, or anything interesting at all?

My steeling development is not off-topic. I am working on electronics steeling limiter base on speed. First, I have to fix the hardware.

Maybe you should get a nice boring reliable gas-powered car; the Hondas are good. You'd have more time to design electronics.

Designing good suspension is just as fun as electronics.

We are going to add two aluminum u-channels to the control arm. The arm was bended and broken around 1" beyond the hole toward the ball join. We need the protective channel to reach the ball join as close as possible.

Just need to bend and form the channels to match the control arm. Perhaps doubling the strength without adding too much weight.

you are kidding right?

Why did the control arm get bent? I don't know what an "anti-vehicle paper" device is.

There was an anti-vehicle landmine (2' to 3' cardboard box) on Van Ness at night. I avoided it by sharp turn to the right, but forward momentum pushed the left wheel sideway and bending it. It was still driveable for a while, waiting for replacement. It was stopped waiting on the sidewalk for street cleaning trucks to pass. The drop over the curb broke it completely with one wheel struck on the curb and occupying 10% of the sidewalk. SFMTA tickets it for $108 an hour later. They are so concern about 10% of the sidewalk and not concern about landmine on 40% of the road. I am going to contest it.

That would be an interesting case to watch. Will it be on Court TV?

No, it won't be. Just enough paper work to annoy their legal department.

LOL They get the last laugh.

Their lawyers would enjoy the work of course. No court filing fee on behalf of public safety. $30 for subpoena for discovery and production of records. I want to know how long the bomb was there and when did they know and clear it.

Whether there were eggs or TNT inside the box make no difference.

Have done a few UJ boots in the past, repair pack includes a sachet of grease. Molybdenum Disulphide. MSO4, from memory. Important not to overpack the joint, as too much will churn and overheat, or even sieze up.

The last joint to fail was at traffic lights,shortly after coming off the motorway. All the balls were held in place in a straight line, but stopped at lights, heard balls falling out to the road. Fortunately, a Quattro Audi saloon, so engaged the diff lock and drove home in 2WD...

I am going to try a temporary fix in place, without pulling the axle out of the motor. Just remove the top layer of grease and replace with some. Superglue the broken boot and duct tape around it. Hopefully, it will last until it get replaced.

Someone suggested (he said it's suggestion from Nissan) to put some DC M-77 on the splinter on the wheel. Should I put it on the transmission side as well?

There's a special grease for this application. CV joint grease seems to usually be a a lithium grease often with added molybdenim disulphide. I am not a lubricant chemist so I don't understand the signifigance of that.

If the only current CV damage is a torn boot it will be good for a thousand miles or more with no attention, but the grease loss will be an inconvenience.

superglue works well on neoprene, so if you can get it clean enough that fix should last a long time.