Mechanical part,I need a search term to find and purchase.

ebay listing, enter "One (1) Craftsman Radial Arm Saw 4-1/4" Table Clamp 63536 for Mdl #113.23111" in search

Very good, I was hoping to do an improvement over what I have, and get something a little larger (1/4"?). So I still need a search term. But, happy to now that;s available as I can make one work, but the other one is beyond repair. Thanks, Mikek

You can do a web search on your saw make/model number and find a parts diag ram that will have identification, p/n and description of the part. If it is a sears craftsman model, the model number should cross to another mfg mo del (or something very close to what you have). good luck j

here you go:

see page 31, item #10

Table clamp, fence clamp, or workpiece clamp.

The photo looks like the part has some rust on it but is otherwise in good condition. Disassemble, dump the part in some vinegar to loosen the rust, wire brush whatever rust is left, and apply some rust reformer, bluing, or anti-rust coating. There are videos detailing the rust removal and restoration process of various shop machines on YouTube.

Also, this series might be of interest: "Restoring a Radial Arm Saw"

More:

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Yes, that is the good part, the other one is bad, as in, missing the rotating washer on the end. I managed to get find a washer of near similar shape, and then the hole actually shrink to stay on the thumbscrew when I got to match the original shape. Quite a lucky sequence of events. I also found some beam clamps that will make a heavy duty table clamp, if I decide to go that far.

This video and part 2 are well done and did a lot as far as helping me see what I wanted to do as to rebuilding the table.

Thanks, Mikek

Methinks you'll find that the stock cone washer is somewhat harder than the common flat washer. The idea is to not deform the washer when overtightening the screw. Another possible will be to use the adjusting screw and pad from an adjustable height steel work table:

My father had a Craftsman radial arm saw in the garage during the

1960's. After a few incidents, he decided that I should not be allowed to use it because it was inherently dangerous. It had a rod attached to the motor, with a swivel fork arrangement at the tip, that was intended to prevent the workpiece from flying back into the operators face due to "kickback". It wasn't of much use for crosscut work, but was useful for ripping, where the motor and blade were rotated 90 degrees and the work could not be clamped to the table and the anti-kickback kludge was useless. Kinda like an inverted table saw. After a few board launches, he bought a real table saw. Attaching the optional drill chuck to the motor and trying to use it with a fly cutter turned out to be equally dangerous.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Yes, I think you are correct on the new cone deforming, my previous fix was just a piece 1/16" aluminum between the wood and the end of the thumbscrew. It worked fine.

I was on a carpentry forum looking for answers and they had quite a discussion about the dangers of Radial Arm Saws. To the point some said throw it out. I find it a very useful tool, for certain jobs and don't want to give it up. Right now, all I want it for is to cut siding and soffit, I have snips, miter saw, skilsaw, a siding knife and a table saw, but the easiest to use for cutting siding is a Radial arm saw. (blade turned backwards. If I had a sliding miter saw that would be my choice, but I don't.

New information to me!!!! One thing I did learn on the saw forum was that for Radial arm saws you want a Negative hook angle tooth. A positive hook angle tooth is, as they describe it, grabby. Again forceful comments about the correct hook blade.

Mikek

You all will be relieved to know,:-) my part problem is solved. While talking with a buddy about replacing the tabletop on my RAS, he said I have at tabletop that I took off of my RAS, He has a Craftsman that had a safety recall, Craftsman sent him a new table, table brackets and new blade shield. So, when I picked up the tabletop, he said and look here, he had the brackets with the table clamps I needed, and they were 1/4" not the feeble 3/16" ones I have. Now If I can just get it aligned. Mikek

I don't know the proper term for the whole thing but the threaded part in the middle is a barrel bolt cross dowel. The other part looks like a thumb screw with a clamping head. HTH

Well the barrel bolt cross dowel is darn close, it just needs a stud out one end. And the thumb screw with a clamping head has some good hits. I put both those terms into a Google image search, and it gives me goose bumps when I think about how capitalism makes it possible to have all of these millions of parts available, just because someone thinks they can make a buck. Reminds me of, "I, Pencil" And a modified quote from "I, Pencil", the absence of a master mind, of anyone dictating or forcibly directing these countless actions which bring (all these millions of items) into being. Mikek

P.S. The story of "I, Pencil">

I, Pencil related by Milton Friedman.

from the sorts of images google will drag up from those search terms?

NT

Yup! Mikek

I find table saws are scary dangerous. They are much more likely to kick the wood back at you. If it's top of the line then the guard is worth something, on cheap models I think the cheapie ass guard makes them worse.

Without a guard on them you just have this exposed blade sticking up and that's not good in any situation.

Remove 333 to reply. Randy

,

A lot of power tools are like that. I tried to turn a hand router into a t able router. It worked, but having that bit sitting there daring you to ge t too close makes it a damn evil thing. With the hand router you have to b e careful of course, but it just doesn't seem like it's going to cause any trouble because a lot of it is resting on the counter or whatever.

I think that table router bothered me more than the table saw.

Chainsaws are probably worse and they don't bother me so much. Maybe becau se I am very deliberate with them and very careful.

Then there are the absolutely most dangerous piece of equipment most of us will ever handle. A car. Beyond that maybe is a nuclear reactor or a vial of anthrax.

Heck, cars kill more people than guns!!! Maybe we should regulate cars... oh, wait, WE DO! See! That's how dangerous they are.

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  Rick C. 

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