Glue figure 8 wire x 2

Could I have a few suggestions on what type of commercial adhesive would work best to permanently glue two lengths of insulated figure 8 wire on top of each other?

The bond must be continuous and flexible over 30 metres, so that rules out hot melt, ties, heat shrink, etc.

Ideally, something that holds when pressed and then dries. Maybe a clear contact type, or something like PVC pipe cement that melts the plastic together.

Does anyone have any experience with this type of thing.

Ken Webber

Reply to
K. Webber
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I'm going to suggest Plummers Goop, or like Shoe Glue. The glue can be thinned to spread easy. Should hold together relatively fast but will take a day to cure. I use lacquer to thin the stuff.

greg

Reply to
GregS

Is "figure 8 wire" a thing itself, or something you are doing to other wire?

-- John

Reply to
John O'Flaherty

I take it as simple stranded wire. Take two wires and twist them together.

greg

Reply to
GregS

--
Assuming you want the conductors like this:


      (O)(O)
      (O)(O)

I\'d use contact cement.

Paint it on both jackets where you want them to bond, let it dry per
the directions on the package, and then press the cables together.
Reply to
John Fields

--
So Called "Figure 8 wire" is just lamp cord.  Think about its cross
sectional view.
Reply to
John Fields

One could also do it flatwise:

(O)(O)X(O)(O) where at X, I'd use RTV silicone.

Personally, I'd use RTV in the one-on-top-of-the-other arrangement, but that's more a matter of taste. One caveat with RTV is it takes a couple of hours to set up, and 24 to cure - contact cement is right now. :-)

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

Is there a particular reason you can't use proper 4-core cable? If it's for speaker use, you can get 4-core flex for use with Speakon NL4 connectors for biwiring.

Reply to
spuorgelgoog

There are solvents for PVC. Try a few glues and see if they work.

Reply to
Homer J Simpson

try shoo-goo (sole repair compound).

you may have to tie cables the wires while it cures

another possibility is cyanoacrylate

I guess ideally it should be fusion welded

stacking zip-cord like this: 88 will make it much less flexible (by experiments bending zip-cord sideways I estimate 20 times stiffer) regardless of what adhesive you use.

If you're wanting a 4 way flat zip cord: like this: oooo you can probably buy that somewhere.

Bye. Jasen

Reply to
jasen

Silicone Rubber sealant..,

--
"I\'m never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5
Reply to
Jamie

RTV taste very bad.

Use the electronic grade stuff. The RTV that smells like vineger rots the wires. Also no matter what glue you want to use, clean the wire's jacket before you try to glue it. They often have oily stuff on them.

Keeping RTV at 50C overnight is enough to finish it off unless the layer is much too thick.

Reply to
MooseFET

rules

Back in the early 60's pvc cabling in LM Ericssons ARF crossbar exhanges was glued into blocks (rather than using conventional waxed twine lacing). They supplied a clear pvc glue which was thinned using laquer thinners and it set reasonably quickly. Such techniques and products were discontinued because they involved hazardhous substances. I would suggest that clear pvc pipe cement as used by plumbers is the closest thing there is today. Silicone sealants and similar products take too long to cure without using cable ties to hold things together while it cures.

Reply to
Ross Herbert

--
Good trick; the guy\'s got about 100\' of it that he wants to glue up!
Reply to
John Fields

Some people have smaller heat boxes than others. :>

I had assumed, perhaps incorrectly that it didn't have to remain straight when it was put into the heat box. It does have to be held together while the glue dries somehow.

Reply to
MooseFET

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