Do whatever you have to do to stabilize the failing connector in a working position and plug a short VGA cable into it to the PC. It will need a gender changer on the cable end.
The wire that one finds in cables now days is not friendly to soldering. It is bad enough on the workbench and really tough in a limited workspace.
Agreed -- I'm assuming here that the far end is well-terminated (negligible reflection). If not... it does make the near end that much more critical.
That reminds me, though... back around 2005 the president of the place I worked at got a small projector (only 800x600 resolution, if I'm recalling correctly) so that he could give brief PowerPoint presentations or similar in his office rather than taking over an entire conference room. The PC at his desk was around 25' away from the projector, and since this was kinda a spur-of-the-moment idea of his, he had someone go to a local Staples and get 3
10' VGA extension cables (Staples not having longer ones). It was reflection city! Really obviously degraded video and not something he really wanted to show anyone...Turns out the 10' VGA extension cables were (like many dirt-cheap VGA cables) just wires inside of the foil shield (not even twisted with their respective ground return wires, I don't think). Uggh! (They were Belkin brand cables -- big on looking cool, not always so great on actual performance...)
I ordered a proper 25' VGA extension cable constructed of multiple mini-coax cables internally... worked like a charm, and it was actually much cheaper than 3 Belkin cables (...but it took a few days to arrive via mail order...).
At least in the O.P.'s case here, it sounds like the long extension part of the cable run is good-quality coax or somesuch.
---Joel
Get Rg-179U cable from your preferred distributor. I have made VGA cables with 5 of these (RGB plus H and V sync). They are .098" diameter.
Jon
The OP did not specify how thick the main cable is, but assuming that the RGB+H+V conductors are something reasonable such as five 75 ohm RG59 coax (6 mm OD) cables each, why not simply install five 75 ohm BNC plugs at both ends of the cable,
Then use a suitable adaptor cable (5xBNC to DB15) to connect into the device. The adapter with 5xBNC connectors should be se _firmly_ attached to the rack frame to carry the weight of the cables and then a normal flexible VGA cable connected to the actual device.
If the auxiliary signals (IDx) also needs to be transferred, then check what connectors the adapters are using for these signals.
I've never bought a Belkin cable, but I've always preffered their nice, orthogonal, $5.00 keyboards to the fancy-schmancy ones with all the extraneous buttons and crap.
Cheers! Rich
That's a good idea.
I have a VGA to 5xBNC cable, I believe, that I could donate if the O.P. wants it... it's been sitting around for something like a decade now, back from the days when some big CRTs only had BNC inputs!
---Joel
There are short F to M VGA extension cables.
-- You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's Teflon coated.
I like John's idea of a small diecast box. Will the cable fit in a Romex type cable clamp? If so, I would cut holes for a HDE15 connector and the cable clamp, then run the cable through the mounted calm and resolder the connector. Bolt it to the box with the proper screws (that can be salvaged from an old video card, or other d-sub chassis mounted connectors) and tighten the clamp just enough to hold the cable. Install the cover and use a short extension. Of course, you could screw the box to the wall or floor to keep it from moving and stressing the cable. That's how I would have done the job when I was installing equipment in churches.
BTW, that 150' cable may have already been in place when they changed projectors.
-- You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's Teflon coated.
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Yes. I can confirm the big 7/8" 130-foot cable was used for the old projector. Only the projector was replaced (and that was a couple years ago, at least..)
I was thinking I would chop off the PC end of the cable, and terminate the wires to a small PCB housed in a metal box. Whether the wires go to a terminal strip, or directly to holes in the PCB is yet to be determined. Exiting the PCB will be this connector: (or similar)
Link:
That will present a metal box with a D-sub 15 on it to the PC. From there, we'll use an off-the-shelf video cable to connect to "box" to the PC. The box can be mounted permanently, somewhere under the booth, with any excess cable tucked away in the false floor.
That's the current plan, anyway....
-mpm
Oh, I thought this widget was going at the far end. Never mind.
I would just use a solder cup version and skip the PC board.
You can use a 'bell' box, AKA a diecast outlet box. Cheap and availible almost anywhere. They also come with tabs to mount them.
here is one type:
-- You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's Teflon coated.
7/8" !
You say solid core, can you terminate the subsidary coaxes with ordinary F connectors that'd be much easier than soldering in a cramped location.
I guess you could get a PCB made that would keep the traces short especially for R,G,and B.
On the other hand you could just solder the existing D15 back onto the monster cable and pot junction the in a box and use a flexible cable between the box and the pc.
-- ?? 100% natural
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