I still make some myself the classic photographic way, 100% success, takes me about 15 minutes with fresh, well heated etching liquid (the dirty yellow one). There are many good tutorials to be found on the web. The hardest part, I find, is cutting the board and drilling the holes in the right place.
When I was a kid I used to use an etch-resistant ink pen (and a nail and hamer for the holes, in fact I did the holes first) but fine-pitched boards are not easy this way. I remember routing traces in between ic pins (I then had a small electric drill). The pen was rather annoying since you had to press the tip to get the ink out and often this resulted is large blobs on the board.
--DF