Recovering Data from Flash Disk

You don't think trying to recover the data with some of the Flash Drive repair tools is worthwhile? Or perhaps you have tried that already

David - who fixed his flash drive with those free tools

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

These tools will only work if the device is recognized by the PC - I believe the USB controller chip is burnt, so you can't really use any software tools.

I hope it is only the controller chip (or any other component) that is burnt, and not the flash chip itself.

Thanks for the reply though... :-)

Regards, Avri quietguy wrote:

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Why d>These tools will only work if the device is recognized by the PC - I

--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"©

"Treason doth never prosper: what's the reason?
For if it prosper, none dare call it treason."

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Why don't you find an exact replacement flash drive and solder the
flash chip onto the good board?

avri.schneider@gmail.com wrote:

  These tools will only work if the device is recognized by the PC
- I
believe the USB controller chip is burnt, so you can't really use any
software tools.

I hope it is only the controller chip (or any other component) that is
burnt, and not the flash chip itself.

Thanks for the reply though... :-)

Regards,
Avri
quietguy wrote:
  
  
    You don't think trying to recover the data with some of the
Flash Drive
repair tools is worthwhile?  Or perhaps you have tried that already

David - who fixed his flash drive with those free tools

avri.schneider@gmail.com wrote:

    
    
      Hello,

A friend of mine has given me his USB flash disk, containing some
important documents he would like to recover. The flash disk was not
being recognized on insert.

I took out the cover and there are marks of something that appears
burnt on a chip made by Chipsbank - it is the controller chip.

I would like to know if a darker color on the dot in the bottom corner
of the chip (the orientation marking) - is indicative of a burnt chip.

The model of the controller chip is CBM1180 and it's serial is
B32095-2.

What steps should I make in order to verify that the chip is indeed
burnt?

Is there a tool I can use in order to remove the flash memory from the
damaged USB device, and from a working one, then replace the flash from
the non working USB device on the working USB controller?

How should I verify the capacity of the flash? It has 48 pins and there
is a marking on it saying
"MR-FLASH
A0542HS28SI"

Would it make a difference if I solder it to a controller board
designed for a chip with a different capacity?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

With Kind Regards,
Avri Schneider

Yeh? Maybe my memory is slipping (again!) but as I recallthe problem for me was that suddenly theWindows box refused to acknowledge that myflash drive wasplugged in, but....

anyway good luck

David

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

That's exactly what I want to do - how do I do that?

Thanks, Avri

**THE-RFI-EMI-GUY** wrote:

y the PC - I

f the Flash Drive

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com spake thus:

Answer: it didn't.

No software tool can overcome basic hardware problems like this. If the system can't talk to the device, there's no way the software can magically overcome this.

The software is there to handle formatting (i.e., scrambled file systems, etc.) kind of problems.

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you're curious but don't really care about the quality of your knowledge.

- Matthew White's WikiWatch (http://users.erols.com/mwhite28/wikiwoo.htm)

I wouldn't assume anything was burnt until there was no other possibility. It's the result you want least.

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Take a soldering iorn and unsolder the flash on both units, then solder the flash chip you want to recover onto the new flash drive's board.

In short I highly doubt you have the soldering skills needed to do this. You could learn, but it would still be very tricky.

Thanks, Avri

**THE-RFI-EMI-GUY** wrote:

Without a hot air removal tool.... Almost impossible to remove damage free ! Also the chip may be bonded to the pcb !

--
Baron:

I once used a paint stripping gun to get some memory ICs off an odd motherboard, and then put them on some SIMM boards that I'd taken the 256K ram ICs off. It worked, though unfortunately those 1meg SIMMs I made for my Mac Plus didn't refresh properly in that Mac Plus, so the whole process was a waste. After it started crashing, that's when I read that there'd be problems with that scenario because the higher density ram I was using wasn't compatible with the Mac Plus.

Of course, when I did buy some 1meg SIMMs a bit later, I ended up using that heat gun to reflow the solder connections on one of the store bought SIMMs, because one was flakey.

Michael

I used to change 288 pin CPU chips on embedded controller boards by hand, while working under a stereo microscope. It takes a very steady pair of hands, lots of practice, and really good tools, but it can be done.

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Without a doubt ! I never had the luxury of a microscope. The hot air kit cost an arm and a half, but it made the job ten times easier to do ! From my point of view the component was usually dead anyway ! It was more important to minimise board re-work damage.

--
Baron:

The microscope belonged to the company, but I swiped it from production so often that they bought me one to use. I did my own rework on PC boards that cost us over $8000 to assemble. I also forced them to buy a 100 pound case of .015" Ersin rework solder. I got one of the engineers to order a sample roll, and passed out a couple feet here, and a couple feet there. Soon, every assembler, rework worker, and tech was demanding a roll. ;-)

The ICs I was reworking cost us up to $80 each, in large quantities. I would inspect a board before I tested it, do any rework it needed, then run the 20 to 30 page test procedure.

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida