Oddly wired motor - Need to make it work. Ideas?

I've got the lens assembly out of a defunct camcorder (brand, type, basically *EVERYTHING* about it unknown, other than it's pretty hard to not know what it is) that's in good shape, so I'm wanting to use in a project. Unfortunately, this lens unit came out of a "junkbox" situation, so I have *NO* idea what the driving circuitry looked like - I've just got two two-pin plugs and a four-pin plug dangling in space. Oh, and the two-pin plug for what is quite obviously intended to be used as a "Hey, stupid! You've already cranked the focus knob as far as it can go, so I'm shutting things down" limit switch. The only identifying markings on the entire unit are on one of the motors (Focus motor, labeled "Tokyo Micro - P1111") and the lens shroud ("Made in Japan")

It has three motors on it, one for focus, one for zoom, and one driving the aperture. The ones for focus and zoom are conventional two-wire "wants DC of the right polarity for the desired rotational direction" units. They behave exactly as expected.

The third motor, controlling the aperture, is wired - and under testing, behaves - strangely. There are no markings of any kind on this motor - if there ever were, they have either faded, eroded, or otherwise been obliterated.

From it come four wires: brown, red, orange, and yellow, leading to a four-pin plug that, "reading" left to right, puts them in the same order listed.

On the motor, there are two columns of four solder pads, one on each side of the shaft. A "picture" follows:

o Empty Empty o o Red Yellow o o Brown Orange o o Empty Empty o

First thought: Some sort of stepper motor?

(FWIW: "Used" shaft rotation is approximately 1/3 turn before hitting mechanical stops at either end of the range, and is spring-returned to the "full-closed" - counterclockwise - position when no power is applied)

Take a SWAG that Brown is probably ground and the other three wires are three phases of a stepper motor. Test this theory by hooking brown to ground, and hitting each other wire with +5 volts. Results: Red - Rotate clockwise to stop (full open aperture) Orange - No reaction Yellow - No reaction

OK, that sorta panned out, but not really...

Let's see... Yellow as ground? Brown - No reaction Red - No reaction Orange - Rotate clockwise to stop

OK, I've established that either red/brown or orange/yellow swing it to the stop when Brown/Yellow respectively are treated as ground and +5V is applied to the other wire. At least it's SOMETHING, right? :)

Reverse polarity by putting the +5V on the brown or yellow, and use the red or oragne as ground, and try it again.

Results are identical to those already noted - specifically, red/brown and yellow/orange both cause it to swing to the full-open position.

Red "hot" and Orange "ground" does nothing visible, as does the reversed polarity version.

Red/Yellow does nothing for either polarity.

Orange/Brown likewise does nothing regardless of polarity.

Seemingly, polarity is of no interest. That means it pretty much has to be a stepper of some sort. Doesn't it?!? Or perhaps this thing is a round solenoid???

Can't be... The whole point of an aperture in photography is to offer an adjustably-sized hole for the light to go through - It's NOT an "all or nothing" situation - that's what the shutter is for. A typical camera usually uses about 6-10 preset "f-Stop" values, although the mechanics of the aperture are almost always such that an effectively infinite number of stops COULD be used if so desired. Which takes me right back to the stepper motor concept - By properly stepping, all the f-Stops that are likely to be desired/functional for the camera in question should be achievable. But I haven't ever encountered a stepper motor that behaves like this one. (if that's indeed what this is) Besides... every stepper motor I've encountered "clicks" to each step - This unit, when using a snippet of wire or similar "pusher" so I can get to it, rotates freely other than the spring - no noticable resistance or cogging - just a smooth, very-little-effort sweep from one stop to the other.

Similarly, I don't think it's a case of "apply the right juice, get the desired f-Stop", since using a pot wired into the mix doesn't reliably "repeat" - I put a 1K pot in series with the hot wire, and until the resistance drops to a certain point, there's no reaction, and once past that point, the aperture doesn't repeatably open to the same degree for any given setting. Even more important, it "jitters" a bit, like it can't decide where it ought to be - Which makes it TOTALLY unsuitable for photo/video work. For this application, it needs to go to "point X" and stay there, rock solid, until specifically told to go to some other point. This thing "wiggles all over the place" if the lens assembly is bumped, moved, etc while power is applied - Not exactly "go to point X and stay there" behavior, and particularly unwelcome in a camera that's likely to be moving to follow the action it's looking at.

All of this combines to leave me right back where I started: Wondering how to drive this motor so I can use the aperture of this lens in a way that's at least somewhat like what was intended.

So, I turn to the group in hopes that somebody reading has a clue what kind of motor I'm messing with, and how to drive it. Anybody?

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
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Reply to
Don Bruder
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On Sun, 16 Oct 2005 23:40:23 GMT, Don Bruder put finger to keyboard and composed:

The service manual for a Sharp VL-MX7 series camcorder shows two iris motors, each with two windings. One winding is the "drive" winding, the other is the "damp" winding. The latter appears to be used for feedback and speed control. A single LM3902 opamp does the driving for both motors via two transistors.

I can scan the relevant page of the schematic if that would help.

-- Franc Zabkar

Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

Reply to
Franc Zabkar

Sounds like some kind of servo motor or voice-coil type assembly, where one of the unknown lines will be the feedback that will keep it stable.

Remember, you want this to respond as quickly as possible, so traditional motors won't do..

Reply to
William P. N. Smith

Well, this one is definitely a single motor...

Hmmm... "drive" and "damp", eh? That suggests that maybe I need to be putting juice on one "pair" as a "bias", of sorts, while actually controlling the aperture size by varying the juice on the second pair - Sorta like they're "fighting against each other"...

It might... If you're willing, I'd be more than happy to take a look at it - After all, what's the worst-case scenario? It tells me nothing at all about the situation I've got? Big deal... I ALREADY know nothing at all! :)

The "From" address on this message is un-munged, and can handle anything you're likely going to throw at it - Just be sure to put the string "PopperAndShadow" (careful - Caps and (lack of) spacing count) somewhere in the subject line, or my spam filters will bit-bucket it.

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See  for full details.
Reply to
Don Bruder

'Drive', and 'damp', suggests a voice coil type assembly. Quite a few iris mechanisms use systems of this type, with a varying DC voltage used to determine the position, and the second coil used to pick up the movement, and damp the amplifier to prevent overshoot.

Best Wishes

Reply to
Roger Hamlett

On Mon, 17 Oct 2005 13:53:27 GMT, Don Bruder put finger to keyboard and composed:

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-- Franc Zabkar

Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

Reply to
Franc Zabkar

I'd vote for one drive coil and one feedback circuit of some kind. I'd guess that the drive was some sort of PWM (pulse width modulation) scheme with a feedback loop to regulate it.

-

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

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