ARMv8.1?

I tend to screw power strips to the wall rather than leave them dangling.

I had a cordless hammer drill of theirs until it died, it was good enough to stop me reaching for a corded drill for anything less than going right through walls (which calls for a big SDS drill IMHO) - but so is the much cheaper replacement.

That hurts more than standing on a hot soldering iron in bare feet.

So?

Not that easy to find the right place to drill thropugh them. It is a long time since you could open them to look inside. (Yes, I can still open the new ones, it's the closing afterwards that poses the problem.)

On Fri, 7 Apr 2017 14:49:46 +0100, Rob Morley declaimed the following:

At work I used three 3M Command Strips (the large velcro style) -- difficult to get permission to drill holes into company property. Mounted them to the underside of the cubicle "desk/shelf"

Worked well -- the only power cords that my feet would hit were the ones from the power strips to the ground-level outlets on the wall panels.

On Fri, 07 Apr 2017 19:24:41 +0200, Axel Berger declaimed the following:

Don't they come with templates for putting screws into the wall, on which the strips then hook?

I assume you are trying to be facetious

but just in case that most* power strips have what I would describe as "Keyhole" slots in the back so you can drop them over s screw head & slide down as a secure mounting

• All the ones I have ever seen have them but there might be some poorly designed ones out there

No, just this (or, from your point of view the other) side of the Atlantic. I have never seen ones like you describe in the shops but I have done the drilling.

In the UK I've seen both over the years. Keyhole slotted ones are becoming far more common.

My Raspberry Pi and 'stuff' are running off one... back on topic :)

Usually these days yes, I do recall having strips with a removable top that could be screwed to the wall through the backplate which is somewhat more secure and easier than getting the screws in exactly the right place to hook tightly.

Hmmm. Sounds like a code violation to wire both phases to (115v) sockets in the same box...

Yes, that's what I was saying. But adjacent boxes are ok to wire on different phases and they *are* done that way.

eep!

-- (\_/) (='.'=) "Between two evils, I always pick (")_(") the one I never tried before." - Mae West

In comp.sys.raspberry-pi message , Mon,

Not quite true. With the narrower multi-way adaptors (not much plastic outside the L N E socket area), it is possible to insert the earth pin of one plug upside down (to release the shutter, of course), and the power pins of another device upside-down. There is then nowhere for a cable to exit the second device's connector in the normal manner; but if the second device is a cubical adaptor it will go in easily, allowing the supply of unearthed L-N-reversed electricity. I have three items so plugged by me as I write.

BS 1363 needs to specify that the mating surfaces are too wide to allow any pin to be inserted upside down when all three pins are present.

In comp.sys.raspberry-pi message , Tue, 4 Apr 2017 12:23:02, Dennis Lee Bieber posted:

No. We, at least on this side of the Atlantic, drop a quadrennial leap day every one hundred years, except every four hundred years. It is thought that the librettist of "The Pirates of Penzance" was expecting that 1900-02-29 would fairly soon occur.

In comp.sys.raspberry-pi message , Mon, 3 Apr 2017 18:15:02, mm0fmf posted:

Integral is compulsory. But the local Poundland has been selling three- way distribution boards with one metre of cable having wires crimp- connected at the board end and fitted with a non-moulded plug (apparently of reasonably good quality) at the other end. That is the cheapest way I know of getting a rewireable 13A plug from a local shop.

A long while back I bought a 4-way extension socket and installed a PC chassis socket in its (enlarged) cable inlet. This made an excellent adapter for use anywhere with 240v mains because PC power cables were available fairly cheaply everywhere and anyway, I soon built up a collection to suit the various wall socket types around Europe.

Sure and you can use a screwdriver in the earth socket to open the shutters and shove bare wires in to live and neutral

But its hard to do that accidentally, either.

You can even unscrew the faceplate and connect to the ring main behind by twisting bare wires together.

Idiot proof is one thing, proof against a moron bent on self destruction with just enough know-how to achieve it, is somewhat different.