TV Repair

No offense, but if your post indicates your level of troubleshooting expertise, you are reduced to one of two possible choices:

1. Throw the set in the trash and buy another one or
2. Bring the set to a qualified repair shop.

There are several hundred components in that television, dozens of which could cause the symptom you describe.

Actually, now that I think of it I guess you have a third choice:

1. Randomly replace expensive components until you exceed the value of a new television or the frustration drives you batshit. I call this the "guess 'n check" method; it's very expensive and time-consuming but some people swear by it. ;-)

Dave

I fixed televisions in my earlier days and I can count on one hand the components that usually go bad.

I haven't repaired in over 10 years so I thought the technology may have changed a bit.

One thing that hasn't changed are BITTER techs who did not get out of the repair business when they should of and are now taking it out on others.

This is an electronics repair NG isn't it ???

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As I noted, no offense to you. All I had to go on was your post, which contained a couple of seemingly wild guesses as to what the problem might be with no description of any supporting troubleshooting you may have done to arrive at these rather specific conclusions. Nor any description of your past experience or qualifications to arrive at these conclusions. There are A LOT of people that, quite frankly, post stupid poorly thought-out questions; these folks by and large have no business opening up a TV and having the remotest shred of faith that they could potentially repair it. Oftentimes what they HAVE done as a "fix" or a "workaround" has exacerbated the problem and increased the cost of repair severalfold.

Most tV's for the past TWENTY years have varying protection schemes which keep the set from fully powering up when the set's microprocessor detects any of a myriad of faults. Incorrect voltages, excessive ripple, ground shorts, temperatures, all sorts of things _COULD_ keep the set from starting up. Or bad sensors for any of the above. If you think it's the HOT, why don't you spend 10 minutes and pull it and see if the set stays powered up? THEN we'd have a starting point. IF it's a bad HOT, then it's likely that it was caused by, or its' failure caused, other component failures. It's extremely rare to find the blackened component, replace it, and everything's good to go.

This group tends to be very generous with their time and expertise _IF_ you can demonstate that there's a hope in hell you have any chance of success. Such things as a description of any troubleshooting you may have done prior to posting goes a long way here...

Dave

Dave wrote: It's

I did fix my brother's 32" CRT 2 months ago. The Horizontal Output transistor was shorted on all leads.

Replaced just the one component and fixed the problem. I though the flyback would be gone as to cause this failure but NOT the case.

Sometimes components get too hot and fail. Bad engineering !!

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In my opinion the TOP 5 reasons why a CRT TV fail in no particular order.

blown fuse bad ripple cap horizontal o/p transistor vertical o/p transistor flyback

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Hi all,

I have a 20" or so RCA / Thompson TV that is 12 years old. It appears that the tuner is flaking out for some reason or another; the picture on pretty much all channels is snowy to unviewable. It has sentimental value so I'd like to get it working.

If I put some downward pressure on the F-connecor on the tuner, it frequently will clear the picture up almost completely, for anywhere from a few seconds to a few days. Then it's back to a bad picture.

I know the problem is not in the cable A) between the set and the wall and B) between the wall and my splitter in the basement, as I have moved the TV to a completely different location, used completely different cables, and the behavior is the same.

My first thought is that the solder connections on the tuner, which appears to be about the size of a box of matches, need to be reflowed.

My questions are:

Do you agree that the reflowing of the solder joints *might* fix the problem, and

Can I buy just the tuner module for this chassis, or do I need to by an entire main board?

Where can I buy these parts on line?

Thanks!!

It's always good to state those sorts of things up front, a lot of people who post here really truly shouldn't be poking around inside a TV, when it doubt, assume the latter.

Amazingly enough, the design of CRT televisions hasn't really changed much in the last 25 years, they've gained more features, but the basics are all pretty much the same.

HOTs are one of those parts that seem to occasionally just fail for no specific reason. Often it's a cracked solder joint that takes them out, but I've repaired many TVs and monitors over the years by just replacing the HOT.

If there's a blown fuse, there's another problem 99% of the time.

I'd put cracked solder joints on the top of that list, of course those often toast other parts.

It might fix it.

"Reactor" ha scritto nel messaggio news: snipped-for-privacy@enews5.newsguy.com...

99,9% it will.... unsolder the tuner box, then open it and resolder everything that seems loosen inside (it's better not to resolder SMDs)

Is this a Chassis # ctc175 thru 187? If it is, do a google search on the chassis #/tuner grounds. Lot of info out there, the tuner is built in so cant replace it. not too hard to repair if you can solder pretty good Charlie

that

a

TV

appears

Wow, thanks for all the responses . . . . I'll get the soldering gun out this weekend and let you know if I get it working.

BTW, just kidding - - I'll use a soldering iron. . . . ;)

You can try to re-solder the connections in the area where the feed goes in to the tuner.

If you start re-soldering everything in the tuner, there is a chance you can de-tune it. The circuits in the tuner are very critical.

You may be able to order a new module from any of the authorized parts distributor for RCA parts. If the set is more than about 5 years old, the tuner may not be available.

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JANA _____

I have a 20" or so RCA / Thompson TV that is 12 years old. It appears that the tuner is flaking out for some reason or another; the picture on pretty much all channels is snowy to unviewable. It has sentimental value so I'd like to get it working.

If I put some downward pressure on the F-connecor on the tuner, it frequently will clear the picture up almost completely, for anywhere from a few seconds to a few days. Then it's back to a bad picture.

I know the problem is not in the cable A) between the set and the wall and B) between the wall and my splitter in the basement, as I have moved the TV to a completely different location, used completely different cables, and the behavior is the same.

My first thought is that the solder connections on the tuner, which appears to be about the size of a box of matches, need to be reflowed.

My questions are:

Do you agree that the reflowing of the solder joints *might* fix the problem, and

Can I buy just the tuner module for this chassis, or do I need to by an entire main board?

Where can I buy these parts on line?

Thanks!!

Interesting. My 32" Toshiba is getting half-inch horizontal white (dot) lines on its very top even after its warmed up (when cold, its about 2 inchs). As many people pointed out that my TV is on its way for retire. Should this be the case of so call 'horizontal o/p transistor' problem ? Any suggestions (or links) of how to fix it ? I know how danger can it be while fixing a TV since it is high-volt stuff and just kind of curiosity.

a blown fuse is not the cause of the failure. i haven't seen that many with a 'bad ripple cap' (mains filter) - usually the small ones die first.

My list is more like:

1=2E bad solder joints 2=2E dried or high ESR caps in power and line stages 3=2E shorted mains rectifier diodes or blown psu often due to surges or the PTC. 4=2E bad vertical /frame chip, often with its feed resistor, and related caps 5=2E bad horizontal transistor and related hi volt caps 6=2E Bad line transformer (flyback) 7=2E Bad RGB chip 8=2E H-k shorts etc and other tube problems 9=2E no line drive - poor soldering or bad parts

1. bad EEPROM