Stronger solder?

Hi, i'm trying to repair my TV. The coax cable adaptor broke off, and i'm trying to reattach it. I've tried soldering it, like i've soldered many other things, but this does not seem strong enough to hold it in place. Is there a better solder, or a better method of reattaching it? It needs to be pretty strong because the tv coax cables are pretty thick and not very flexible. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

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From one of my tips files

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I am getting a bit tired of seeing TVs and VCRs where someone has tripped over the trailing lead to the aerial socket. The connection to the tuner is then broken in the process. Make up a simple adaptor of a small length of coax with plug on one end and socket on the other and plug the aerial lead into this. Not having the right-angle connection to the back of the set gives a chance for the lead to disconnect without damaging the tuner.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
n cook

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You also have the option of making a loop or two of the short add-on lead, around a cable tie or similar, to anchor to a firm bit of chassis or casing

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
n cook

Large surface areas are difficult to solder properly using garden-variety radio/tv solder. Make sure you're using sufficient heat -- which would be a gun type iron, 100-200W or higher depending on how much metal you're trying to heat up. And don't skimp on the solder. If you're trying to solder huge areas with small diameter solder, you'll have to feed the solder very quickly. Also, try using flux on the area first, as no amount of solder will stick well if the surface isn't clean.

As a last resort, you can try acid core solder. Never ever use this stuff on circuit boards or part leads, but for large metal areas like shielding cases and nuts/bolts, it's ok to try.

You might also consider using a quick-connect type connector on the cable. This would prevent such major damage next time the cable was yanked on, as it simply slips off with little force.

Reply to
Ray L. Volts

Forgot to mention an alternative if you just cannot get it soldered is to use a panel mount connector (nuts on both front and back of connector). You'll have to obviously open up the shield case (if there is one) to get behind it, but if there's room in there, this is a good option.

Reply to
Ray L. Volts

No there isn't a better way than solder.

Even if you used a F81 or F61 connector and bolted it down to the tuner, the frame of the tuner would pull away, from the forces involved. Been there done that.

Use a push on adapter, these suckers will pull right out and won't mess up the tuner connector.

I've soldered RCA jacks to the tuner and used a RCA to F adapter, it pulls out too.

F connector right angle adapters will take the force of the heavy cables off the connector.

To solder to a tuner case you need a good non corrosive flux, works real well with low wattage irons. Sal-Met is the brand I have used. The resin(flux) in wire solder isn't good for soldering to cases like tuners.

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Reply to
ray13

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