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Samsung TV TXM3296HF---- Will not turn on

Have schematic and User manual:

The red standby LED is on. When trying to put set on, the led blinks a couple of times, then accoumpanied with a click the led come back to it's standby state. For a brief 5 seconds or so the HV static is present on the tube face. No video or sound appears. Have done no live trouble shooting but have done some testing of the obvious components like fuses and diodes for shorts or opens. Posting this just in case there is a common fault with this set that happens and is easily fixable. My eyesight is not so good anymore, so if it is too difficult to fix the set will be going to the dumpster PDQ.

Don't know who ever thought up the idea to have an indicator led/lamp "on" when the set is for all intents "off", seems to be prevalent nowadays.

Thanks for any help or insights into this problem

Chas

Reply to
Chasparm
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

possibly bad electrolytics(ESR) in the power supply;how old is the set?

I've had bad caps cause a PS to current-limit and "chirp" or burst trying to start and restart.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
Reply to
Jim Yanik

You could be right about it being a bad cap but where. Seems to me that the switching power supply must be working . The standby LED is getting power from somewhere but I am unable to locate that diode on the schematic as yet. Surprised myself that the set was made in 2002 (Mexico) . Being as the set is very heavy I have to work where it is situated in a smallish bedroom. Not too easy to do live testing as there is not much room.

Reply to
Chasparm

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

"housekeeping" supply.it supplies power to the main PS circuitry.

Often there is a cap that is charged up through a large resistor by rectified line V that provides power to the switcher IC,and then once the PS starts up,the cap and IC is supplied from a transformer winding.If the cap goes bad(ESR),no start. You may have to replace more than one electrolytic.

An ESR or cap meter is very helpful.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
Reply to
Jim Yanik

Thanks Jim for your continured interest in my problem. I do have a cap meter and can check ESR with it. There only seems to be two electro caps on the switcher so I have pulled them ,at your suggestion ,and they test good I note the larger value one is in fact 820uf @250V the schematic says 470uF @400v

Can't seem to find any "housekeeping "supply everything follows the switcher. I would buy the service manual but don't want to find that it is only the schematics--- which I have -- having been stung that way before.

Reply to
Chasparm

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