Motion Sensor always on?

I have one of those motion sensor triggered secruity lights. Its cheap enough (

Reply to
PaPaPeng
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Hi!

Some of these motion sensors use a relay to switch the attached load on and off. You might check to see if the relay was perhaps undersized to the work at hand. The contacts could have welded themselves into the "on" position even while the sensor is working fine.

There are some that are completely silent when switching. I assume these might use something like an SCR or triac to do the switching...but I don't know as I've never had one apart. I'm not sure an SCR can even be used for the purpose of switching something on and off.

William

Reply to
William R. Walsh

I have a few of these units. I've never have one that works all the time. If you use the wrong bulb on some types then it will not work. You need something like 70-100Watts. If the sensor window/rain shield is dirty, leaking air or reflecting heat from else where then it will stay on. Make sure you turn the sensitivity dial all the way down.

Reply to
Tim Zimmer
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Check the >>cheap enough (>dump if it needs only a simple fix. The problem is that its always

Reply to
Nirodac

I thnik I figured out the problem. I was using the junction box as the wire junction for all outside outlets in my garage. Just wired up my garage for use as a workshop. In the process the security light wires slipped and I just rewired them by color. I got them wrong. What is the correct wiring diagram? I know its simple but I just can't figure it out now.

Reply to
PaPaPeng

You'd have to give more detail.

****A caution: if you're wiring up anything involving mains power, you should be VERY aware of what wire goes where. Use a multimeter or continuity tester of some sort to verify the wiring. Otherwise, have a qualified electrician do the work. Anything less is a serious safety issue.****

As for your security light, I can't imagine a miswiring scenario which would cause the symptoms you describe. It's either getting power or not. Since you say it's coming on with the switch, sounds normal. Be advised that on the ones I've seen, you must have the power turned off for *at least 60 seconds* before the the unit will default back to motion sensor mode. This is so you 'can' turn it on yourself if you wish with a simple 'on-off-on' toggle of the switch. Afterward, you turn it off, wait 60 seconds, then turn it on again. It will light, then if it 'sees' no motion in the 'on' interval, it will extinguish and wait to detect....

jak

Reply to
jakdedert

I had installed a subpanel in the garage to set up both a 220V as well as 115 V power outlets for my many shop tools. They have enough breakers to accommodate the loads I intend them for. I am a retired tech on electronic as well as industrial instrumentation. Haven't smoked anything yet.

Its simple as my having bypassed the motion sensor so that it is a normal switch operated light. Its not a bother to switch it on when I need to. The question is how to wire the sensor in series. I may just have to go to the hardware store to look at the wiring diagram printed on the back.

Reply to
PaPaPeng

It sounds to me like the relay is stuck - I have one that does the same thing. The problem is that the box says it will run a pair of 150 watt bulbs, which it will, it just won't turn them off again because the relay points weld together. Too small of a relay, too large wattage bulbs.

WT

Reply to
Wayne Tiffany

I see. Most of them I've worked with only have two wires. The module's already wired into the fixture. Maybe a bit of judicious disassembly would reveal the two wires which go into the sensor/switch module...after that, it's simply a matter of putting those two wires in series with the wall switch, and then to the hot leg. I can't imagine polarity would be an issue....

I'm not sure if I explained the above clearly, let's try a flow chart:

ac neutral>ac neutral (white wire) of the fixture. ac hot>wall switch>module (in)>module (out)>hot lead of the fixture. Ground>ground on the fixture.

Make sense? Of course there's a remote possibility that you fried the module....

jak

Reply to
jakdedert

If you open it up you may be able to follow the antenna to the circuit board and add a small potentiometer and adjust it for the proper trip voltage. Just a thought.

Reply to
Roy

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