The transformer and the UPS are VA rated and declared devices. The computer power supply is declared in Watts here and it is correct. If all the outputs are loaded as rated, the input power requisite will be as declared.
The rating on a PC power supply is its OUTPUT side DC power rating. The amount required to make a 500 Watt DC personal computer supply put out
500 Watts will always be greater than 500 Watts on the AC Line side of the supply. That is usually declared as well, however, and it is usually correct from what I have seen.
I'd be surprised if your electricity prices were higher than the UK. However, with a kettle, I doubt if the size of element makes much difference to the cost of boiling a fixed amount of water - only to the time taken.
Really? ;-)
With any appliance basically heating things it simply does the job quicker at higher power. May even be cheaper.
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"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net:
Bet you got a 'buzz' out of that.
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bz 73 de N5BZ k
please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
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Good luck plugging in a switchable 1200/1500W electric room heater, when 1200W just don't warm enough or a fix power 1350W type or a decent µ-wave.with 1kW or 1.1kW *output* power, sucking about 1.5kW out of the wall.
Who wants to be forced to use a puny 1500W appliance such as an electric kettle?
3,000W gets the job done fast.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
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It takes the same amount of energy to boil a quantity of water whether you're using a 1 kW or 3 kW kettle. Infact it would probably take less energy with the 3kW kettle as it gets the job done quicker, which means less losses.
Agreed, but you can't really save on a kettle, unless you switch to some alternate energy source.
Not an appliance, and in Sweden, not Japan, but I have lowered my hosehold energy consumption from 40+ MWh annually to around 18 by converting from direct electrical heating to a rock heat pump, and paying attention to the consumption of appliances.
I have a 200 m drilled collector in my back yard that feeds the heat pump. The collector is also used as a source (drain?) for cooling in the summer. One only needs to pump the +8° brine coming from the collector through a few convectors, no need to run any compressor.
I'm currently installing the air conditioning parts of the system, which when finished will provide about 10 kW of cooling power for about
300 W of input power to run a brine pump and the fans in the convectors. Theoretically it will also warm up the collector slightly, which improves winter operation, but that is marginal, if any.
Oh, and while were talking about electrical systems, domestic feeds in Sweden are almost universally 400V three phase.
My main fuses are 25A. When we bought the house in 1987 it had 20A fuses, and electrical heating. One of the main fuses would occasionally trip in the winter when the washer and stove was used, while the radiators were running on full blast. Switching to 25A fuses solved that. After the heatpump conversion I can most likely go back to 20A fuses and save some on the electrical bill.
When we bought the house, the stove, washer, dryer, boiler and sauna were all wired for three phase 400V operation. The radiators were 400V two phase. The new washer and dryer are single phase 230V units, and we've ripped out the sauna and the heatpump produces the hot water, so the stove and heatpump are the only remaining three phase consumers.
Apart from the fact that the energy used in a more powerful kettle is slightly less, the rates in California appear to be about 12-15c/kWhr, compared with my UK rate of 9p (~18c). The big difference in costs here is that the climate is such that we don't need (and most of us don't have) air- conditioning.
The problem is transmittable, thus only one bad socket was needed for the problem to occur and spread to the others. So good sockets went down too.
The way it occurs is one bad contact occurs, the plug pins get damaged, and when damaged pins are inserted into a good socket, bad contact occurs due to copper oxide and a rough surface. So the good socket is damaged. Plug something else into it, that plug gets damaged etc.
Slow process, but have seen it happen. AFAIK its the only electrically transmissible disease :)
Nowt wrong with round pins. The problem is that some of the older sockets didnt implement contact springing, either at all or effectively. Sometimes the split plug pin was the only sprung part, which is no good at all on 15A 3 pin plugs.
Wrong way round. A 3kW kettle takes less energy to boil a given amount of water, not more. The energy required to heat the water (and nothing else) is the same regardless of power, but the heat losses are larger with a 1kW kettle, since it takes apx 3x as long, losing about 3x as much heat to the air.
Thomas Tornblom wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@Hax.SE:
How would going to 20A fuses save some on the electric bill?
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bz 73 de N5BZ k
please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.
bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap
There are two parts to the bill, one consumption part, which obviosuly is not affected by this, and then a fixed part, which is dependent on the installed main fuse. The weaker the fuse, the less the fixed part is.
When we moved in there was different tariffs for 16, 20, 25, 35A, but after a few years they dropped the 16 and 20 A tariffs. Now they are reinstating them.
It will increase the fixed part by about $150 a year, which is not enough for me to bother. I rather not have to get out and replace blown fuses. :-)
We pay a sliding scale for electricity here in San Francisco, from about 10 cents to as much as 22, nonlinear on consumption, to encourage saving. But we gat our heat and cooking from natural gas, and don't have a/c. At 7 AM, July 5, the forced-air heat is on. We pay more for gas than for electricity, maybe $200 a month total for both.
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