It *has* likely several transistiors inside the TO-92 plastic package that burned up. Refer to the diagram for the cited integrated circuit.
It doesn't need more than one pot. The regulator compensates for the variations in the motor. Refer to the diagram for the cited integrated circuit.
Agreed.
Since the OP is posting from Google, you will have a hard time following this discussion.
Please reveal your source; I have had _no_ luck finding obsolete parts houses that sell ICs in small quantities.
Michael
On Sun, 5 Oct 2008 22:29:42 -0700, "Richard Crowley" put finger to keyboard and composed:
I just realised the OP's IC is an AN6601, whereas I've been looking for an AN6610.
Anyway, if the motor is an odd type, or if the pulley is difficult to remove, then it may make sense to try to repair the PCB. I remember having to do this one time, although I had to make my own PCB, using a different IC, and mounted externally. My effort wasn't wasted, though, as I treated it as a learning experience.
BTW, over here audio motors typically cost AU$8.65, which is still cheap.
- Franc Zabkar
-- Please remove one \'i\' from my address when replying by email.
Reinhard:
You are 100 percent correct. My mistake! Thank you for pointing that out.
On Mon, 6 Oct 2008 06:56:38 -0700 (PDT), EADGBE put finger to keyboard and composed:
Sorry, my mistake.
This is how I see your circuit:
AFAICT, the AN6601 IC senses the motor voltage via the potential divider consisting of VR1, R2, R3, and R4. I suspect that if this voltage begins to increase, then D10 conducts, causing the voltage at the AN6601's control pin to rise with respect to its supply pin, thus turning off the AN6601 and reducing the motor current.
- Franc Zabkar
-- Please remove one \'i\' from my address when replying by email.
Then you're somewhat stuffed without a schematic I'm afraid. Unless you can reverse engineer the circuit ! I've just been through a similar problem myself where the parts list had everything on it except RESISTOR values ! what IDIOT was responsible for that I hate to think.
For any AUDIO people listening, that company was MIDAS btw. I've been in contact with them for about 2 weeks now about it and all they did was to re-send the same list in a different file size with the resistor values STILL missing.
Plausible. Low value Rs aren't always marked conventionally. Most likely a current sense R.
Graham
Both very plausible.
Graham
In which case putting in something bigger like a 1N400x ot UF400x if it has to be a fast device would do no harm.
I've known 'back emf diodes' like the 1N4148 to be 'killed' by even modest size relays. I never 'cut corners' on that component any more. 1N400x every time.
Graham
Can you not trace out the whole circuit ? There's precious little there.
Graham
Oh, go on, draw a schematic !
BTW, that black electrolytic may well have had a good cooking. I'd replace that too.
Graham
Well, it has all become academic at this point.
I ran the motor off of a 9v battery while it was hooked up to my multimeter's current setting.
The motor was pulling just over ONE AMP of current!
I took apart the casing and studied everything....sure enough, one of the armature windings has a scorched spot.
This motor has gone to that Great Cassette Deck in the Sky....
You could have re-wound the motor! :-)
Yeah, I know...but I'm just too lazy! :-)
There are replacement motors available from MCM and the like...
12V CCW, 12VCW, etc.Standard mounting holes.
Usually pretty easy to wire in place of the original.
Mark Z.
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