I have a capacitor that has it's apparent value printed on it, but I'm not sure how to read it. This is one of those rectangular type (not sure what kind this is). Anyhow, it has the following numbers on it - .0056J8???? can't read the rest. I'll probably get hammered, but, I'm not exactly sure what value this means. Also, can I replace this with a different type cap since I don't want to have to order this specific component? It is in the power supply of an RCA TV as most of you probably already know. I am a semi-beginner in TV repair, but often run across these type things I'm not familiar with. Thanks for your continued support.
This isn't much help since the voltage rating is of vital importance. It is possible the '8' signifies the voltage (possibly 800V but this would be an unusual value). According to this page
This is where correct use of terminology comes in. Where exactly in the receiver, do you mean by " power supply " ? In the area where the line cord comes in, and the switching power supply for all of the primary rails is, or are you referring to the area around the flyback, that generates the CRT final anode voltage, and other sub-rails for the unit ?
I would go along with the value being 0.0056uF ( 5600pF ) and 5% tolerance. If it is one of the 'boxy' types, then with this value, I would suspect that it might well be something like flyback tuning, in the horizontal output stage, rather than the power supply, and is likely to be rated for around
2kV. If this is the case, this capacitor type is chosen carefully for this application, and should not under any circumstances, be substituted for a different type. Even the correct types sometimes go up like fireworks, and do considerable damage to a pcb, so fitting the wrong type could prove disastrous.
In general, particularly whilst you're in the learning stages, and not sufficiently experienced to appreciate the subtle differences between various component specifications, I would strongly recommend that you replace only like for like, particularly in TV sets, and no matter how difficult the 'real' component is to obtain. Remember that some components are also " designated safety components " and should not under any circumstances be substituted with other types. Schematics for the item under repair, will make any such components clear. At the end of the day, you are ultimately responsible for any repair that you put back out there, so it makes good sense to repair only to the manufacturers' original standards, and know that the item is not going to burn down someone's house as a result of a substitute component that you have fitted.
I hope that hasn't put you off, but I think that it's an important point that you should grasp the implications of, as early as you can.
Well, I'll say different... in 98-99% of cases you can substitute other types just fine. There are however some cavets:
safety resistors - these are fuses and resistors in one, and should never be replaced with bog standard Rs. X and Y rated capacitors - these have characteristics that improve their safety on L-N or L-E apps, and only X or Y types respectively should be subbed. Fuses, use the right type, dont swap std with time delay etc Small capacitors in tuned stages: excellant stability is important, so forget poorly specced ones.
It sounds like Arfa and I come at repairs from somewhat different angles. I've never needed to concern myself with whether something is as it was originally made, but rather with whether it is effective, reliable, safe, and looks good. You can do a whole lotta mods and stay within those requirements.
Well, I'll say different... in 98-99% of cases you can substitute other types just fine. There are however some cavets:
safety resistors - these are fuses and resistors in one, and should never be replaced with bog standard Rs. X and Y rated capacitors - these have characteristics that improve their safety on L-N or L-E apps, and only X or Y types respectively should be subbed. Fuses, use the right type, dont swap std with time delay etc Small capacitors in tuned stages: excellant stability is important, so forget poorly specced ones.
It sounds like Arfa and I come at repairs from somewhat different angles. I've never needed to concern myself with whether something is as it was originally made, but rather with whether it is effective, reliable, safe, and looks good. You can do a whole lotta mods and stay within those requirements.
I forgot diodes, dont replace ultrafast with not fast.
Seems to me that you've just answered exactly the same as me ! You have basically said that it's ok to substitute - but not A's with B's, or X's with Y's, nor J's with K's, not forgetting O's with P's. Oh yes, and you should never swap M's with N's. I think that pretty much covers it ...
Of course I substitute sometimes - all engineers do, but the point that I was making was that you need a lot of years' experience to make the judgement as to what is an acceptable substitute, and what isn't, so if you do not have that experience, don't make substitutes at all.
I would absolutely refute that in general, it is safe to substitute cap types in high voltage and pulse circuits. These devices are prone to catastrophic failure with fireworks, but because of this, have certified flame retardant cases, amongst other important characteristics. Also, as you say, caps used to tune RF stages have particular dielectric types, giving rise to enhanced electrical, mechanical and thermal stability. Substituting with an inappropriate type, could lead to a serious degradation in the performance of a receiver or transmitter.
I don't know whereabouts in the world you are, or whether you are a professional repairer, but in general, repair shops are responsible for the safety of any repaired items that they put back out into the public domain, and I for one, take that responsibility seriously, which is why I gave the advice that in the case that the OP was asking about, he should only replace the cap like for like. I accept what you say about being able to carry out mods and stay within the realms of what would be considered effective and reliable, but sometimes, it may be difficult to stay within what is safe. Without detailed knowledge of the designer's thought processes, it might be difficult to know why a particular component type was used, what the safety issues were, and more relevant still, what exactly the safety legislation issues were relating to the choice of a specific component, which is why I say in general, don't sub component types, unless you really understand what you are doing.
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