hp officejet 4110 all-in-one

A good place to start is to download the manufacturer's user manuals. Study them for possibilities. For example: If this is an all-in-one, that means it includes a scanner as well as a printer...which means it has optics (mirrors, lenses, an image sensor, etc.), as well printer-related stuff. If it also functions as a fax machine...then it includes a telephone interface. USW

it should have some of them.

There's plenty about that on the interweb

most of it potentially,

(I note you're using gnus) I think there's a linux driver for the small character-based LCD displays (displays based around some hitachi chip I think).

I had one but destroyed it before i got it working correctly (not sure what I did wrong)

that very much depends on your goals.

--

Bye.
   Jasen

USB cable? Dollar store?

I'd see if it works before trashing it for parts. It may just need new ink - eBay.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm downloading the HP Officejet 4100 series all-in-one (English) Reference Guide and setup poster now.

Abbreviation for "und so weiter"?

--
Ignorantly,
Allan Adler 
* Disclaimer: I am a guest and *not* a member of the MIT CSAIL. My actions and
* comments do not reflect in any way on MIT. Also, I am nowhere near Boston.

I'll see what I can find out. Yes, I'm using gnus but not on the PC I would be using for any interfacing. The PC in question has both RH 7.1 Linux and Freedos installed. I would probably start with Freedos interfacing, since I think it is easier to get things to work, but I don't really know. Once something works under Freedos, I'd imagine I actually know something and try to get it to work under Linux.

At this stage, my goal is to be better educated and I view the hp 4110 as a means to that end. Then I'll be better prepared the next time fate favors me with garbage. I don't have a particular construction project in mind at the moment, although I have seen things on the web (www.hackaday...) such as using stepper motors from printers to make a numerically controlled milling machine. I'm not ready for that. Just to know how to fillet and bone the fish will be a sufficient goal, and if I can do better, that's even better.

--
Ignorantly,
Allan Adler 
* Disclaimer: I am a guest and *not* a member of the MIT CSAIL. My actions and
* comments do not reflect in any way on MIT. Also, I am nowhere near Boston.

It has 3 sockets that look like they take: (1) phone jack (2) power cord (3) I don't know. The symbol next to it looks something like the symbol for a USB connector but there are 4 prongs in in the almost square hole, not at all like the USB receptor for my flash drive.

I'm running RH 7.1 Linux and it has no driver for this printer. The hp website doesn't have a Linux driver for it. So, there is no chance of my using it as a printer in the near future, even if I did feel up to trying to buy ink for it.

--
Ignorantly,
Allan Adler 
* Disclaimer: I am a guest and *not* a member of the MIT CSAIL. My actions and
* comments do not reflect in any way on MIT. Also, I am nowhere near Boston.

It may be very similar to another model.

But he's saying he thinkgs there's a driver for small LCD displays for Linux. Which means that if you were lucky, the printer's display is the same and you now have the means of using it, or at least you have a driver that you can study to see how you can drive such a display. If a driver exists, it's a lot easier than whatever you may think of the operating system.

Based on people's questions about making use of scrapped electronics, a common mistake is to strip it down without taking notice. So they end up with components that have no information, or they save some key parts but neglect to save the associated parts that may also be difficult to get.

Often, one can extract information from the complete unit, and once you've taken it down to individual parts that information is lost.

So you find a radio, and you can start making guesses about the ICs even if you can't find part numbers, because you have the whole thing in front of you and have a general idea what sorts of ICs are needed. Unsolder those ICs from the board, and they are just ICs with no recognizeable part number. On the board, you can trace the circuitry to get an idea of what the pins do, or to verify whether a guess at what the IC might be (under a house number) matches a common IC. Even things like what pins are grounded and what pins get power can pretty much immediately sort out IC guesses; if there's no match to the guessed IC, then you need to guess again. Each iteration brings new information.

You look for the same sort of function in a databook, and then see if they match the unknown IC. A differing number of pins immediately rules out the guess, the wrong ground pin eliminates others. But then you trace the circuit board following the guessed IC's external connections, and you may find a match. Often that can be easier, imposing a known circuit, on a circuit board circuit, than tracing out everythying first and then trying to make sense of it.

Or, a common item in radios are ceramic filters, which can be useful if building radios. But once those filters are desoldered, you've lost what the terminating resistors are, and which pin goes to ground, and how the inputs are connected to the driving source, and what's connected to the output pin.

Or sometimes you have small boards that could be used as is, so long as you know how to connect them. So the IR receiver in a VCR is actually on a small board, or you can hack out the area with a hacksaw. Take note of what is ground, and what is the power supply line, and then that third line must be the data output. You don't even have to know what's inside the module, because you can treat it as a black box. Desolder the parts, and you have an IC that you have to find data for, and then you have to find out how to wire it together, and get the parts, which is what you started with originally.

Find things with exotic parts, that you know are valuable or you are especially interested in, and if you aren't going to use them right away, it makes sense to keep the boards or equpment intact to some extent. Because when the time comes when you need that exotic part, you will be glad to have the information you can extract from tracing the circuit, and in some cases glad to have the connected parts.

At the very least, marking parts that can't immediately be identified with whatever information you can gather form the board (and even where you got it, since you might want to look for similar equipment, or you might get lucky later and find a schematic that explains the parts.

A few years ago, I needed a 24V power supply to run something, and for some reason I remembered that I'd seen indications of higher voltages in printers. So I grabbed one of the injket printers that I'd brought home, and it offered up a switching supply of the needed voltage. I wish I'd recorded the brand and model, because it would be handy to find some more of the same type, rather than randomly bringing them home or taking them apart on the sidewalk until I found a match.

For that matter, I know I've taken other inkjet printers apart where the power supply was a separate board, kept them intact because I am far more likely to make use of a power supply than to build one up from parts lying around.

Michael

That is what Sharpies are for: Write the brand and model on subassemblies as you junk damaged equipment.

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

I downloaded it. It is your typical user manual with no information about internals. Just how to turn it on and use it. On the other hand, the web site also offers to sell parts to hp 4100 series printers, so maybe their parts "catalogue" will have some useful information.

Ignorantly, Allan Adler

• Disclaimer: I am a guest and *not* a member of the MIT CSAIL. My actions and

• comments do not reflect in any way on MIT. Also, I am nowhere near Boston.

Maybe.

Thanks, this is very sensible and helpful.

--
Ignorantly,
Allan Adler 
* Disclaimer: I am a guest and *not* a member of the MIT CSAIL. My actions and
* comments do not reflect in any way on MIT. Also, I am nowhere near Boston.

I'm running printtool now to see what models might be close to it. It lists the following OfficeJet models:

500, 600, 625, 635, 720, G55, G85, G95, Pro 1150C, Pro 1170C, Pro 1175C, R45, R60, T45, T65.

They don't sound very close to 4110. However, if a friend with a PC running Windows shows up, I might be able to try it out on his machine. It just might not be in the near future.

Anyway, I'll keep in mind the possibility of actually using it and thereby adhere to Michael Black's advice not to destroy anything that I might want to use or know more about.

--
Ignorantly,
Allan Adler 
* Disclaimer: I am a guest and *not* a member of the MIT CSAIL. My actions and
* comments do not reflect in any way on MIT. Also, I am nowhere near Boston.

Exactly: "and so on" or "and so forth" in German. Where I went to school, the favorite blackboard shortcut of all my math and engineering science professors when they didn't want to complete a long, boooooring equation.

Mine preferred, "And it is obvious to the meanest intelligence that ..."

I just went for a walk and found a discarded computer system. The computer case had been broken open and little was left unscavenged. In addition to the computer and monitor, there was a HP LaserJet 4, and I decided to give the printer a home. It has no cables and I have no idea at the moment whether it works. Unlike the hp 4110 all-in-one, the HP LaserJet 4 *is* known to printtool on my RH 7.1 Linux PC. So, trying to get it to work is a possibility, if I can get the cables and maybe replacement cartridges or whatever, which might add up to a significant amount of capital that I'd rather spend on other things, especially since I don't know if the thing works in the first place. Better to stick to looking for stepper motors and other useful subsystems.

--
Ignorantly,
Allan Adler 
* Disclaimer: I am a guest and *not* a member of the MIT CSAIL. My actions and
* comments do not reflect in any way on MIT. Also, I am nowhere near Boston.

What cables? My HP LaserJet 4 uses a standard Centronics interface, and a common IEC power cord so I have over a hundred of each on hand. These old printers are workhorses, but you don't want to leave them on all the time. I have a half dozen laser printers that I haven't even fired up, and won't, till I run out of toner on the pair of old IBM 4019 printers that I'm using.

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

possibility,

Gakk! it's a printer cable! Go to the computer store, buy one. Pay them a fee they might tell you if it works, DL the driver, BAM. Laserjet 4 is maybe one of the least brain-consuming things to maintain compared to USB DeskJet setup which they seem to change every two weeks with every new model.

Have fun!

I think I'm having fun. I'm not sure. I scavenged a power cord from an old computer and used it to power up the printer and pushed some buttons on the console to get it to run through a print test. There was a paper jam and there have been about a dozen paper jams without any successful printings. I'm not sure why. I was doing this with the printer sitting on top of some old books. I moved it to the floor a little while ago and tried again and now, for some reason, it makes a truly ghastly sound every time I turn it on and run the print test.

When the paper jams, I remove the cartridge in order to remove the jammed page. The print on the paper wipes off easily.

I have the service manual. I expect to learn a lot about this printer. I don't really expect to ever get it to work properly, but I will have fun.

One cause for optimism is that the entire computer system was thrown away, not just the printer. So, probably it really does work. The thing is, I never owned a laser printer before and I don't know ANYTHING about them.

--
Ignorantly,
Allan Adler 
* Disclaimer: I am a guest and *not* a member of the MIT CSAIL. My actions and
* comments do not reflect in any way on MIT. Also, I am nowhere near Boston.

1. Clean the rollers. They are dirty, same as any printer, and the paper may not be the right quality for the printer. See the website or office supplies store for details.
2. Either your toner is bad or something else in the printer is awry. I would call somebody who deals with them on a regular basis (office supply store, copier repairman) or go to
   formatting link
   and enter the product name and look for Troubleshooting somewhere in the menu. HP usually provides tutorials or maintaining their printers. HP LaserJets are supposed to provide a fairly dry copy, not smear badly as in a DeskJet using too much ink for instance. Toner is different than ink, I think it's electrostatically charged and bonded to the paper, but I really don't know a lot about them.

This is pretty general knowledge from someone who's first printer was a used 500C, but I'm sure they aren't rocket science (only the USB drivers).