I use a HP Laserjet 1160 for overprinting glossy colour flyers, sometimes the paper bubbles due to the heat of the fuser roller. Can anyone tell me which setting offers the lowest fuser temperature, or is there a way on this model to change the preset temps?
The Fuser temperature is preset and based on the type of toner that was specified for the unit. Any copier or laser printer that uses a heat fuser to melt the toner to the paper is likely going to have this problem. Any attempt to lower the temperature will result in the toner not being melted completely to the paper.
There is a slim possibility that the fuser roller is simply worn out and the teflon coating is starting to get thin or peel off in places, or the temperature sensor is all covered in crud allowing it to get too hot.
My guess is that you actually need a transfer film printer, about $2.00 a page, in order to keep from losing any of the flyers, or a good quality inkjet with that uses the correct type of waterproof ink that will still work on the glossy flyer. If the flyer were not glossy than something like the Epson higher end ink jets would probably work as the ink has to have some paper fiber to bond with.
Incorrect, the fuser temp varies with the type of paper or stock selected, for example transparencies and labels use a noticably lower fusing temp than normal paper. Some makes of printer have adjustable fuser temp via software.
Any copier or laser printer that uses a heat
Hewlett Packard printers appear to use a lower than normal fusing temp toner.
Brand new printer, works fine on all but the occasional batch of flyers, My old HP laserjet did in excess of 250,000 prints on flyers before the paper pickup became too cranky to use
I don't know of any HP LaserJet units that offered this feature. As far as I can tell, fuser temperature on these printers is set at one level and not adjustable.
I once read what the fusing temperature for an HP laser printer was, however, I've long since forgotten what the number was.
The roller that's responsible for paper pickup is relatively easy and certainly cheap to replace on most machines. I got a replacement pickup roller for an HP LaserJet III that actually ran until the built in page counter flipped over to all zeroes and started again. I never did get to see how long this printer would have kept on running...I needed space and changed it out for a Samsung ML-1710. A basement flood wiped out the HP printer and damaged the toner in the Samsung printer.
Would any of A) different paper B) a color laser printer or C) something like a dye-sublimation printer work? It sounds like the paper you are presently using is simply not compatible with your current printer.
It`s lower than some other makes of printer, Brother and Samsung for example. I once tried refilling an old cartridge with Xerox toner - just to see - and it didn`t fuse at all
My old HP was an L6. I'de been nursing it for years but now the thin flexible sheet which covers the fuser has wrinkled and puts creases in the paper - it certainly doensn`t owe me anything
I have an ML-1710, not a bad printer for £60 but it wont handle laminated stock, the fuser temp on that machine is so high that it bubbles the paper up instantly
You misunderstand. I have no control over the paper quality, the flyers are delivered to me pre-printed, and I overprint onto them.
90% print without any problem whatsoever, it`s just the occasional batch which are trouble. I`ve found that storing them in a really warm place for a time before prnting helps a lot, That makes me think that it might be moisture trapped in the paper
I`ve found that the transparency setting seems to be the coolest, I was just wondering if there`s a way of reducing it even further in software.
The fuser temperature cannot be manually adjusted on this printer. The only way to do that is to select the media, and that only adjusts the temperature to the presets. No other adjustments can be made to fuser temp.
There are limits on what coated media you can use:
"The printer uses heat and pressure to fuse toner to the paper. Make sure that any colored paper or preprinted forms use inks that are compatible with the printer temperature (200° C (392° F) for 0.1 second)."
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Thanks very much for that, it`s exactly as I expected. I`ve found that the 'pre-punched' and 'recycled' settings work best, and I do short runs to prevent the temperature building up too much. I suspect that the reason I`m having trouble with this particular batch of flyers is that they are predominently black with just a small lighter coloured area for the overprinting. I think that moisture trapped in the paper has something to do with it also.