HP OfficeJet 7000 service manual?

30 seconds using Google web search. Try seaching before posting.

In general, low end HP inkjet printers are not designed or built to be repaired. The manual even says "No user serviceable parts inside". Common wear parts are either not available, or sold as sub-assemblies for more than the printer is worth. Your best bet are cloned or salvaged parts on eBay. Good luck.

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

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"OfficeJet 7000 User Guide"

With respect Jeff, don't be so quick to presume one hasn't searched.

HP never publish publicly on their sites service manuals, that I've seen. Not for consumer goods.

Still searching...

Parts sources can be found. I'm interested in the manual for service information, ie, disassembly, adjustment, etc.

- - - (apologies for previous attempts. borked content...)

I think this is about a $ 400 printer and not one of the $ 100 or less units. While $ 400 may be low end to some, I would think it may be worth repairing if done by the owner. Many manuals say "no user servicable parts inside". I guess that they are mainly referring to a fuse that can be replaced by someone that has almost no knolege on how to repair things. While most users are not equiped to service devices, some are if they have the correct manuals and can obtain the needed parts.

I will agree if the printer is in the $ 100 or less class they are hardly worth the time and effort to repair. The ink that comes with a new printer is almost worth the cost of a low end printer.

Note that the ink (and toner) cartridges that come with new printers are "starter" cartridges, barely filled enough for a few tens of printouts. Not equal to replacement off-the-shelf cartridges.

I don't know about HP, but places like Black and Decker exaggerate that. I found a B&D "air pump" that plugs into a car and it said "No user..." so I drilled out the rivets on the cigarette lighter plug, replaced the fuse and it works fine 10 years later.

I know you've done things like that.

See the "troubleshooting" section for minimalist service information. Decoding the error lights and reset procedures are a good start.

Ok. I'll be nice.

I usually find what I need on other sites. I have a fair collection of HP manual scans and PDF's mostly collected by others. HP is not the only source for information on HP printers. For example: However, if you look through the listings, you'll probably notice that there are many more laser printers listed than inkjet printers.

Diversion: If you're doing toner cart refills, here's some more non-HP information:

Sure, at prices that make repairs unprofitable. I find myself buying broken printers and using the parts to fix other printers. On most contract work, used parts are not allowed, thus justifying totalling the printer and ordering a new replacement. I recently had to recycle a decent inkjet printer because I could not purchase a new waste ink foam or felt pad. I could have made one in a few minutes from some material on hand, but that was not allowed.

The best disassembly instructions can be found on YouTube from various repair people that have generously spent the time to document their experience. I make it a habit of checking these disassembly and repair videos before blundering forward. There are also web sites with good info. For example, I'm now dealing with an HP2600n color laser printer and found teardown instructions online at: Although iFixit doesn't have many printer teardowns, I think it's just a matter of time before the collection improves:

Adjustment is another matter. The factory no doubt had their own ideas on how this should be done. Without the documentation, blundering my way through this exercise is prone to inevitable failure. When this happens, I usually search or post a question to the HP printer support forums: If it's a common procedure or adjustment, I usually get an accurate answer. If that fails, it's:

I hope this helps.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Googling for prices finds that this was a $1200 list price printer, that's still selling new for $1000 and refurbished for about $500. I agree that it might be worth repairing.

That's part of it. Todays user manuals are really wholesale repudiation of responsibility and liability documents. Some user manuals have more legalese than user or technical information. There's also the "you didn't warn me" section, where improbable stupidity is neatly documented should some user injure themselves and then claim that the manufacturer is responsible because they were not warned of the danger.

Long ago, I designed consumer products. In one case, the service documentation was delayed about a year due to lack of adequate staffing and time. During that year, we had few difficulties with warranty returns and field failures. As soon as the manuals were made available, the broken products began to arrive by the truckload. Most had obviously been damaged by either the customer or the company's authorized dealers. Management was tempted to "accidentally" delay future service manuals.

Yep. It's worth even more if the cartridge includes a refill protection chip. Extra credit to HP inventing a print cartridge expiration system:

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

OfficeJet 7000 disassembly:

Continuous ink supply for HP OfficeJet 7000:

HP OfficeJet 7000 printhead cleaning:

More:

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Thanks Jeff for your several very informative posts. Much information there to help me maintain my 7000.

Best, Dave

Worse. I bought a cheap ($25) Black and Decker right angle grinder for a project: It actually worked quite well until we used it to do some heavy duty grinding which cracked both brushes. When I tried to order replacement brushes from a B&D service shop, they told me that brushes were not available. I could get them custom made from a brush vendor, but not from B&D. When I later complained, the service ship operator told me that B&D made the brushes extra large so that they would not be expected to wear out during the expected life of the angle grinder. The cracked brushes were deemed evidence of abuse. That makes sense since the brush holder were made of plastic instead of brass and molded as part of the case. Any overheating guaranteed a misaligned brush, which would then crack. A deformed plastic brush holder is probably why the brushes are not user replaceable.

However, since this grinder was better than the Harbor Freight equivalent, and about 1/4th the price of a real grinder, I just bought a replacement, and destroyed it in an identical manner. I'm now on my

3rd or maybe 4th B&D grinder and highly recommend it for anyone that wants a grinder that will last for exactly one job.

I do a 3m C band dish antenna replacement starting on Thursday, where an angle grinder will surely be needed. I think I'll bring two of them this time.

Incidentally, Black & Decker owns DeWalt and Porter-Cable.

I probably have, but I'll never admit it.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

From my understanding B&D was a quality tool at one time, but years ago they seem to become junk quality. I had a cordless drill and jig saw from them and the quality was not very good. Jig saw burnt out the first time I used it. Think I smoked the brushes. I returned it for a replacemant and got a Skill jigsaw. It did the job for me the B&D could not do. I think DE Walt came out to be a decent quality tool.

The only related story I have is about my '95 Chrysler LeBaron convertible. or maybe the '88 or '84. The car was over 14 years old and often I would have to smack the top motor/pump with a wrench to make the top go up or down. (I was lucky to think of hitting it. I probably learned that from watching people on pinball machines or maybe old movies where they always hit something that doesn't work.)

Anyhow, this worked for almost a year, and I put the top up and down a lot, each day, often two or three times in a day ** But I had to hit the motor more and more times towards the end. I started by hittting it twice, but was up to 10 or 20 times and figured I'd better do something before I coudlnt' get the top up at all.

I had fiigured out that the brushes were worn out, too short. A real hardware store nearby sold brushes the right size, so I took the motor/pump out and apart and then I noticed the copper braid on the new brushes was about 1/4 the cross-section of the original brushes.

Called Chrysler and Electric Motor Repair and maybe I coudl have gotten brushes at the second, but I came up with the idea of wadding up some heavy duty aluminum foil and sticking a little ball in the bottom of each brush holder. Worked just fine for at least two years until the car overheated and was ruined.

** (even though I'll leave it down while I'm shopping or while I'm home if I have to go out again, but it used to rain a lot here.)

Hitting something is always the first choice in a repair job. (grin).

Knowing where and how to hit is where the money is. At work there are lots of small motors with brushes and sometimes the carbon will build up jamming the brush and the spring can not push the brush down as it wears out. Sometimes a good hit will keep the motor running long enough to last to the next planned shutdown.

LOL

Good to hear about this.

To elaborate: Actually any carbon dust had falled away and my brushes weren't hung up on anything, except maybe the usual friction of a smooth piece of metal against a smooth brush. But they were just so short, the spring wasn't long enough to really push them against the commutator. I think when I hit the motor, towards the end they just landed almost at random, and sometimes both were touching the commutator. I might have stretched the spring out more, and that probably would have worked too, but the spring wire was so thin, instead I used the ball of foil push the spring up 1/2" closer to the armature, to make up for the last half inch of brush that had worn away. That seemed better.

>

' that's a user guide not a service manual you dumb shit. try knowing anything about what you're talking about before posting... prick.

Wow - took you a year to read that then?

You're welcome. You might want to skim the table of contents for Chapter 4 "Maintain and Troubleshoot" which includes quite a bit on how to deal with the usual error messages and ink/mechanical problems. However, if you're expecting a schematic or part numbers for individually replaceable parts, you obviously haven't tried to fix any recent HP products. In the likely case that this does not produce instant enlightenment, please re-read what I posted about "no user serviceable parts inside" in my reply which you conveniently quoted.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558