Chinese Germanium 1N34

Hi Pimpon, Yeah that's what I thought you meant. The question then is do the LED's break down or not? If they do break down, then will they over heat? If current is limited to 1 mA, then maybe that is OK...

1 mA * 50 - 100V 50-100mW... maybe 1/2 that current and only 1/2 of the time.

George H.

Reply to
George Herold
Loading thread data ...

e:

y

Hmm my post disappeared. OK I reverse biased an osi opto-electronics PIN-3CD (With 100 k ohm to limi t the current.) It didn't avalanche till ~150V. But the avalanche current was independent of the photo current... Like it was avalanching at the edg es or something. I've had "edge issues" with this PD in the past.... I nee d some other small PD's.

George H.

Reply to
George Herold

ote:

lly

mit the current.) It didn't avalanche till ~150V. But the avalanche curre nt was independent of the photo current... Like it was avalanching at the e dges or something. I've had "edge issues" with this PD in the past.... I n eed some other small PD's.

Update.. I did find some other PD's They all seemed to avalanche around 100-150V. With the avalanche "channel" not coupled with the photo "channel".

Which I guess is why you have to pay more for APD's... George H.

Reply to
George Herold

Guard ring maybe?

--

John Larkin         Highland Technology, Inc 
picosecond timing   laser drivers and controllers 

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com 
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
Reply to
John Larkin

On Wed, 18 Feb 2015 20:26:02 +0530, "Pimpom" wrote as underneath :

I have used since 2002 a couple of 3mm hibright red LEDs like this as indicators but running them at less than 0.00005A (240v mains R series at 470K) nothing like your figures 1-2mA. So this works fine just for indicators but I would be wary of doing this at anything like full LED brightness. Output looks same as when installed.

Reply to
Charlie+

I killed one with only 9V

--
umop apisdn
Reply to
Jasen Betts

Must have been without a series resistor or other current limiter.

Reply to
Pimpom

did that with a clear LED using a 1M R as a ballast .

It gave some interesting results at around 25V

Jamie

Reply to
Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.

Me too! (it all started on SEB after all.)

formatting link

The leds are from purdy electronics AND113R and AND114R

formatting link

For best results as a detector get the 113R "clear" sand down most of the plastic till you get near the wire bond and then polish out the scratches.

George H.

Reply to
George Herold

do you also use a file on carbon composite resistors to get the value you need when in a pinch, too? ;)

Jamie

Reply to
Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.

On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 08:02:35 +0000, Charlie+ wrote as underneath :

snip

Sorry correction on checking circuit - used these LEDs like this since

1995 when I updated my C/H system... strewth - nearly 20 years ago!
Reply to
Charlie+

560R
--
umop apisdn
Reply to
Jasen Betts

I've heard about filling carbon composites, but I've never done it. (almost all 1% metal film.. though a few CC used for the non-magnetic properties)

George H.

Reply to
George Herold

George Herold prodded the keyboard with:

Hi George, You can flame polish the plastic. Just touch the plastic into a small flame until it starts to melt, it only takes a couple of seconds or so. I use this method on the lathe to polish the lens ends on 1/2" perspex rod.

--
Best Regards: 
                      Baron.
Reply to
Baron

Oh thanks I hadn't thought of that. (I use a bit of spit as a temporary solution.)

George H.

Reply to
George Herold

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.