22-watt compact florescent bulbs VS 100 watt incandescent bulbs?

There was a warning on UK news programmes recently that the UV output is above recommended guidelines - but only within a foot or two of the folded tube.

Years back when Morrisons dropped the price of their 20W CFLs to £1.99 I changed over but I was very disappointed with the light quality, my living room has two light fittings and both had to be on for any kind of comfort to my eyes, more recently they did a massive promo on Philips 18W CFLs - first dropping the price to 0.99p and then a BOGOF offer as well. These are actually very slightly brighter than the original own brand CFLs but I've still had to resort to 2-lamp adapters so I can use just 1 fitting on except when I'm working at my desk or reading when I need both fittings (4 18W CFLs in all ) on.

My experience in USA is that 26 watt spirals CFLs of "full 100 watt incandescent equivalence" are widely available where CFLs are sold, including USA's two major drugstore chains as well as home centers of the two main chains of those.

I do consider those to be prone to overheating in recessed ceiling fixtures and enclosed fixtures. *Disclaimer* - my personal opinion with data running low due to low usage rate that I consider advisable for such light fixtures.

I do see about 2% disadvantage of "soft white". Also, in USA-land, the "standard" incandescents are "run to a hot extent" for "standard" ones of

I try in the Philips website, and find no match. Closest approximation I find in 2-3 minutes is:

I see a different shape/size/color bulb, but 1200 lumens! Meanwhile, it appears to me that "The Standard" ("higher end" my words) in USA for 120V

I failed to see a statement of lumens.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

I would bet on overpowering of mechanisms that cannot be remedied by increasing heatsinking - such as overpowering the wirebonds and bonding wires, or overheating the die bonding means.

And if such thermal stress overpowering is not outright, it occurs via metal fatigue!

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Know what you mean. I try to get the 20/21W ones but they're not often at discounted prices.

Morrisons are doing 3 of the smaller wattage ones (Philips) for £1 currently.

Graham

Not here sadly. You have to seek them out.

Would make sense though.

That's a BIG difference.

I was just showing the product. They were cutesy slighly coloured versions of standard bulbs intended for 'mood lighting' and never kicked out as many lumens as stardard GLS bulbs.

Graham

Yes, that would happen. Talking of wirebonds, ever seen a TO-3 with a hole in the top of the can ?

Graham

Let me know if they do a promo on the 5W CFLs - I transplant the PCBs into lantern style bug-zappers which use a 6W tube, the electronic ballast causes the tube to operate more efficiently so there is no loss of light output. The original zapper ballast is a "wattless dropper" capacitor with resistance to limit surge, with this the tube doesn't last a full summer, with the modification it lasts at least a year.

I don't use incandescents anyway. They're out of date technology.

A 240 volt 100 watt lightbulb is said to be about 1300 lumens, so you'd need

Not sure who the manufacturer is, and I've lost the place that had all the specs, but this looks like the same thing:

They claim 480 lumens for a 96 strip using 7.68 watts (although this is converting from their own units using their own calculator).

Also available at:

standard and coiled coil bulbs. The coiled coil ones were advertised as lasting longer and (I think) being brighter for the same power input.

the 70s. And they are brighter IIRC.

The main thing advertised on the box was "double life" - 2000 hours instead of

No. But I've never noticed them doing so. Flourescents (especially the compact ones) definitely fade.

I assumed they eventually broke. Failing suddenly. Try running one at too high a current - the ultrabrights at least will function very brightly for a short while, then go off instantly.

Some are sealed in plastic (waterproof), so I might agree - except they don't even reach body temperature. The others were exposed to the air in a circular fashion on a PAR spotlight shaped device.

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Most LEDs are actually not more efficient than fluorescents - only the very most efficient few are. And even the best of those are hardly more efficient than T8 4-foot fluorescents.

By that I mean maybe 1 or 2 Nichia models, the top rank of Lumileds Luxeon "Rebel" at 350 mA in one or two shades of white, top rank of Cree XRE at 350 mA in only one shade of white, and top rank of Seoul Semiconductor P4 (uses a Cree chip) at 350 mA in only one shade of white. Even then, many of these can sometimes fairly easily achieve as little as

The most efficient 3 and 5 mm ones I have seen so far (at the usual 20 mA) is Nichia white ones with D revision letter. I don't have any hard luminous flux data, but these appear to me to be achieving around 60 lumens/watt or somewhat more, maybe 70. Nichia has a slightly more efficient white with a shorter life phosphor - and I guess it is intended for flashlights, keyfob lights and the like.

The Chinese knockoffs have achieved consistently less so far in my experience of reading their specifications.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

I usually see white LEDs receiving enough power to make them get warm.

Also, I have heard of some of the cheapies having poor internal connections. I have even seen some that failed after mere hundreds of operating hours and mere hundreds of on-off cycles and several months of storage. I don't know who made those (Chinese cheapie), but I did tell the product assembler to use something else.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

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'd need 8.67 watts worth of those. That's about what I'm seeing with mi= ne - I get 100 watts equivalent (subjective estimation) from 8 watts inp= ut. The specs actually work out to 120 watts for 8 watts input.

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The reason I buy the ones I quoted is that they are the only preassemble= d long flexible strips I've been able to find. Certainly with a high de= nsity of LEDs - there are some with about an inch between each one! It = makes them nice and easy to put them wherever you want them, coiled into= a circle, as a strip, or rolled up inside an old compact flourescent wi= th the inners removed. They're 12 volts, which works great with my sola= r power array. Plus I can make decent brightnesses by using a lot of th= em. The pre-made bulb shaped ones are pathetic - I've not seen one over= 30 watts equivalent!! Bulbs are historically 40, 60, and 100 watts! W= hat are people doing with them, installing 3 times as many light fitting= s in their homes?!?

This site seems to think they are TEN times as efficient as an incandesc= ent:

Never felt one that felt warmer than my own hand.

Now that sounds familiar. I have a strip running now in fact (a few days old), which has a few of them flickering! It will be going back under warranty (as long as they don't mind me having cut the wires during installation.....)

A strip I bought from the UK (I've stopped buying any LEDs from the UK!) failed in a few weeks. I sent it back and the replacement did the same. After SIX replacements, I gave up. Oddly, they no longer sell this model. I also avoid (like the failed one) 240 volt models. They tend to have hundreds in series, so you lose one, you lose half the strip.

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I used to have softone bulbs, i never noticed they were dimmer.

I had nine of a pack of ten spiral CFLs fail within 6 months by overheating. But they were "biobulbs" - a very pure white light. In fact one caught fire!!!

They even state watts and lumens for a few, and I think I know the watts for a few others that they state the lumens of:

Top left one - 200 lumens from 3 watts.

Top center one - 160 lumens from 5 watts.

The 330 lumen 3-LED Rebel Star: Probably typically achieves that with 7.14 watts (3.4 volts per LED, 700 mA)

The 130 and 105 lumen K2 stars - Probably achieve that at 1.5 amps with typical voltage drop of 3.85 volts. These appear to me to be older type ones without "TFFC" that are in the DS51 datasheet.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)