22-watt compact florescent bulbs VS 100 watt incandescent bulbs?

Those remind me of the CFLs available from some dollar stores in the USA.

One even avoids mentioning on its package a brand or name of distributor, importer, etc. The package even has a copyright notice that lacks mention of who is claiming the copyright. It appears to me they want to hide!

None of them making claims of light output meets them. Some fall short of claimed light output by a factor of 3-plus. A few avoid making claims of light output or "incandescent equivalence" or "incandescent replacement".

Most are an icy cold "daylight" color. Some of the daylight color ones come in packages claiming "soft warm white light". Most of the few that actually have a warm color appear to me to have low color rendering index, like that of "old tech warm white" - whose CRI is 53.

Most of my spectacular failures of CFLs have been of dollar store ones that I only purchased so that I can say "in my actual experience" what sort of stool specimens those are. I had one fill a room with smoke after

3 minutes, and refuse to stop producing an orange "burning" glow until I shut the power off.

A friend of mine testing just a few of these had one go out with two bangs and a pop and another fill his room with smoke.

One model of one of the "dollar store brands" has suffered a recall for having its ballast housing being made of plastic that is not flame retardant.

It appears to me that "self ballasted lamps" normally get UL listing. In my experience, most dollar store CFLs are self-ballasted ones lacking any mention of UL or any other safety testing laboratory.

120V self-ballasted CFLs with electronic ballasts normally have "FCC ID". In my experience, most dollar store CFLs are 120V self-ballasted ones with electronic ballasts and without any visible sign of "FCC ID".

In USA, I would stick with CFLs that achieve all of the following:

1. Are either "Big 3" brand" (GE, Philips or Sylvania) or are sold by *major established* retail chains.
2. If they are screw base or otherwise self-ballasted, they should have UL listing.
3. If they have electronic ballasts (in my experience all spirals and most other screw base ones nowadays have electronic ballasts), then they should have "FCC ID".
4. Ones with the "Energy Star" logo are supposed to have achieved some level of good performance.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

If that is true, then this is 8.33 times as efficient as a 30W incandescent. What kind of 30W incandescent?

Notice lack of a lumen claim. I have noticed that a lot of these figures without lumen claims tend to be optimistic.

Also, a 30W incandescent is less efficient than a 60 or 100 watt one due to a couple of economies of scale. How many of these things does it take to match a 100 watt incandescent?

For that matter, I even see a lot of the lumen claims being optimistic - such as being taken from a datasheet that specifies LED heatsinkable surface temperature or even *junction temperature* of 25 C as a condition of such lumen output.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

I just fired up a medium screw base nominally 2 watt 18-LED 120V "bulb" and let it warm up for about 45 minutes. The bulb-like housing screws off, making it convenient for me to aim my non-contact thermometer at the LEDs to see how warm they got:

45 degrees C in a 23 C ambient.

I have done this with a couple LED work lights, and seen as high as 60 C.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Have you seen these?

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There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you\'re crazy.

I have yet to see such big CFLs in person except once at a trade show.

I have seen that similar ones are available from at least of the major online lightbulb sellers.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 20:02:28 -0000, Don Klipstein w= rote:

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I prefer the colder light - the bluer light like you get from modern hea= dlamps.

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If you're in the USA, can't you sue them for a million dollars of damage= s or something? Claim it's affected you psychologically or something.

for

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ng

I'm surprised they get away with that.

.

Isn't FCC just concerned with radio interference and nothing to do with = safety?

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On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 20:11:43 -0000, Don Klipstein w= rote:

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I'm certainly getting what looks to my eyes as 100W incandescent equival= ent (note that European 240V incandescents are actually slightly dimmer = than yours) from 384 LEDs of the strips I mentioned. These draw 0.7 amp= s at 12 volts. That's 11.9 times as efficient as a 100W incandescent. = They are all working fine apart from the greens which have all lost a fe= w LEDs. I'll be sending those back for an alternate colour.

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A very shy guy goes into a bar and sees a beautiful woman sitting at the=
 bar. After an hour of gathering up his courage, he finally goes over to=
 her and asks, tentatively,  "Um, would you mind if I chatted with you f=
or a while?" To which she responds by yelling, at the top of her lungs, =
"No, I won\'t sleep with you tonight!"
Everyone in the bar is now staring at them.  Naturally, the guy is hopel=
essly and completely embarrassed and he slinks back to his table.
After a few minutes, the woman walks over to him and apologizes.  She sm=
iles at him and says, "I\'m sorry if I embarrassed you.  You see, I\'m a g=
raduate student in psychology and I\'m studying how people respond to emb=
arrassing situations."
To which he responds, at the top of his lungs, "WHAT DO YOU MEAN, $200?"=

What on earth can you do with something that dim? You'd need hundreds of those things to light a room.

For what purpose? Can you swap for different fittings?

But what is it picking up? The surface of the LED plastic, or the inside of the LED?

I don't have my house that warm!

My work didn't even use CFLs until I told them how much they'd save a year.

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A woman calls a Contractor to her house to give her a bid on painting the interior of her house. She takes him into the first room and tells him that she wants it painted pale green. The contractor writes something down on his notepad, goes over to the window and yells down "Green side up!" The homeowner takes him into the next room and tells him that she would like it painted rose colored. The contractor again notes it on his note pad, goes over to the window and opens it. He then yells down, "Green side up!" The woman was curious, but continued to show him the rest of the house. In each room the contractor notes her color choice on his notepad and yells out the window, "Green side up!" When the homeowner had completed the tour, she asked the contractor why he always yelled, "Green side up!" when she told him her color choice, when the colors were all different. He laughed and replied, "I have a crew of blondes across the street laying sod."

Worth getting one of those just to show it off.

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Three women are having lunch, discussing their husbands.
The first says,  "My husband is cheating on me, I just know it. I found a pair
of stockings in his jacket pocket, and they weren\'t mine!"
The second says, "My husband is cheating on me, I just know it. I found a condom
in his wallet, so I poked it full of holes with my sewing needle!"
The third woman fainted.

Since you claimed in other articles in this thread 11-12 times efficiency of a European 100W incandescent, it should take only a few

2-watt units with the "proper LEDs" to light a room if your claims are true. The nominal wattage of 2 watts was for power consumption.

Probably to change the light distribution pattern.

The surface of the LED plastic. Definitely that, since the plastic is opaque to the 7-14 nm IR that the non-contact thermometer senses.

The insides of the LEDs are even hotter - heat flows downhill.

I often have to make an effort to cool my house to even 27 C in Philadelphia. Even a few days of October usually have Philadelphia being semi-tropical. And my landlord is often generous with heat, and during heating season even when I set my heat season to minimum I usually only have my apartment get below 21 C when something in the heating system is outright broken or I artificially heat the following-described bulb. My thermostat is a crude thingie accompanied by a bulb appararently filled with an oil or a wax that expands to push a valve closed when the bulb gets warmer.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Yes.

Graham

Yes, that is true. However, CFLs without FCC approval are more likely to be stool specimens that don't belong on the retail market than ones that have FCC approval.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

safety?

On that topic, do any mobile phones actually have an FCC? I say this because if a mobile phone is in use in close proximity to any amplifier, I get buzzing and bleeping through it. I can always tell mine is about to ring at work (in my pocket) because the computer's soundcard starts making intermittent buzzing noises.

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Artifical intellegence is always better than real stupidity.

A 2-watt LED "lightbulb" will only achieve equivalence to roughly 25 watt incandescents even if achieving about 100 lumens/watt efficiency.

But then again, there are the 3-watt and a few 4-watt ones and a few of higher wattages. If they achieve so much as 75 lumens/watt, a 5-watt one should be a contender against 40 watt incandescents. If LEDs achieve 12 times the efficiency of 60 watt incandescents, then a 5 watt LED "light bulb" should match the luminous output of a 60 watt incandescent. I suspect that lack of 5 watt LED "bulbs" being equivalent to 60 watt incandescents means low existence of LEDs 12 times as efficient or "luminously efficacious" as incandescents. Heck, I know of "better" "LED lighting fixtures" consuming about 11 watts in order to do what a 60 watt incandescent can do. Check out the lumens out per watt in for Cree Lighting's LR-6 and LR-4 units - appears to me to be in the 60's and sometimes upper 50's! And it appears to me that USA DoE's "caliper" program has yet to find any arguably-practical LED lighting product being more efficient than

60's!

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

On Thu, 30 Oct 2008 04:27:24 -0000, Don Klipstein w= rote:

rote:

:

et warm.

"bulb"

eds

w

re

UR

The

.

of

ne

12 t t

watts

ns

e to

d

Ah well, I'll have to stick to making my own.

The brightest I've ever bought as a commercial product was 120 LEDs cons= uming 6 watts and claiming 100 watt equivalent. It looked more like 60 = watt equivalent to me. It was an ES (they also did bayonet) large PAR s= potlight shape. It lasted 1 month with normal household usage before on= e third of the LEDs went out. Another third went after another month. = Then the whole lot went out a month later.

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What comes after 69?
Mouthwash.