Running Copper Clad Kapton Through Laser Printer

My mistake--I quoted the wrong message. The purpose of roughening the copper is to improve toner adhesion during \\ after fusion. I don`t expect feeding will be a problem.

James

Or, he could 1) raise the fuser`s temperature, or 2) reduce the fuser`s feed rate, or 3) print, then feed the material through a laminator set on its "foil" setting. All these things have been done in pursuit of better toner transfer.

Some guys on the Yahoo group use hairdryers to "reflow" the toner prior to etch.

I measured some toner melting points. The original HP toner in my LaserJet 6L melted (flowed well enough to be smeared with a hot iron) somewhere between 99 deg. C and 106 deg. C, and toner I used in a refill cartridge melted between 98 and 101 deg. C.

Interesting project, D from BC.

James Arthur

gold lettering on business cards etc,,, I think it's some variation on thermal wax,

the artwork on cans cans is screen, or offset printted, the use-by dates (and internal writing) done with electrostatic ink droplet printers

if the foil is conductive it could be useful...

--

Bye.
   Jasen

Perhaps you're thinking of a heat gun? Hair dryers only get to about

120F, way to low to melt toner. Heat guns get up to 1000F.

On 3 Feb 2007 19:55:01 -0800, "James Arthur" wrote: [snip]

Thanks for the temperatures.. I didn't know laser toner melted near H20 boiling point. D from BC

Yes, the man said hair dryer

but you're right, his must be hotter than mine. I just measured mine and get about 65 deg. C several inches away, and, up close, a mix of temperatures close to 75 deg. C, none exceeding 99 deg. C.

Here's another pair of data points relating to toner melting: There are decorative, iron-on metallic-film transfers used to dress up laser- printed stuff. You apply the film, iron, and the metallic coating fuses to the toner. I measured the minimum transfer temperatures for

1) the HP 6p with original toner and 2) a Samsung with a refilled cartridge as 110 +/- 3 deg C, and 81 +/- 3 deg C, respectively.

I hate to mention it, but we're kinda of-topic for SED. This conversation, though interesting, hasn't much to do with design, nor politics!

Best, James Arthur

Success!!! :)

This photo is after chemical wash and etching.

It's a 6 step process..

I haven't cleaned the residue off the copper yet.. It gets cleaned just before soldering.

The "D from BC" font has 4 mil line width!!! It's only dirty from the residue and there's no breaks in the copper. However, there's defects at the bottom of the PCB.

Apologies for lack of electronics design in this post... Often I can handle the electronics. It's everything else that I get stuck on. :) D from BC

That looks pretty good. You should refine the process some more, great looking boards are the target. It should be within reach.

--
 JosephKK
 Gegen dummheit kampfen die Gotter Selbst, vergebens.  
  --Schiller

I know... I'm very surprised. It's better than the toner transfer methods I know. The only DIY method I know of that can compete with this quality uses positive presensitized PCB's.

I assembled this PCB and tested.. The only thing wrong was my layout mistakes. Which is great! :) I get to tweek the chemistry and make another board..

I still haven't tried laser printing on bare copper clad kapton.. I coat the copper to:

1) protect drum 2) provide thermal resistance for toner fusing 3) provide chargeable surface to help attract toner off the drum 4) I've heard bare copper doesn't work D from BC