mitutoyo 6" caliper with bad curcuit board (2023 Update)

Caliper model is 500-196

Scroll down to where the 500-196 section starts. Early models have few parts available. The 500-196-20 model has a "reader unit" available but no price. What's the exact model number?

Plenty available on eBay for little money: However, I suspect they're all counterfeit. I was hoping to find the PCB from a wrecked caliper, but nothing found. I'll continue digging tomorrow.

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Jeff, Thank you for what you have found so far. The mitutoyo model number 5

00-196, and that is the full number the 500-196-20 or 30 are the newer ones . I have heard about long island but ii am from Canada and they dont ship h ere. You have been my best source of any kind for this curcuit board hang u p to date. I do appreciate any other light you cn shine on it. Thank you, g ordon

There are two series of calipers that lack the -20 or -30 suffice as differentiated by the serial number. Is you your serial number above or below 0214920 ???

Exploded views of the 500 series calipers:

Current catalog for calipers:

Drop ship to an accomplis in the USA and have him forward it to you.

Y'er welcome, but I haven't been very successful at finding parts or repairs. That's probably because the cost of the parts plus labor to repair your $150 calipers is more than the cost of a new pair. I was hoping to find one that could be used for parts, but that's not happening.

07GZA238 is the part number for Mitutoyo 500-196 with serial number over 0214920. I could not find a number for lower serial numbers. I suggest you inspect your "reading unit" for a part number to verify that this is the correct unit:

Googling: I find several vendors that carry the "reading unit" at about $75.

Whether it's worth $75 to fix yours is dubious and risky. You can get a new and up to date Mitutoyo caliper for $150, or a pile of battery killing cheap calipers for about $15.

"How to spot a fake Mitutoyo 500-196-20 caliper" More of the same:

Personally, I prefer a (cheap) ditital micrometer for

There are a few batteries with differing thicknesses used in these types of calipers. If you use the thickest kind, it can distort the battery holder terminals and board.

RL

The battery, hmmmm didnt check the thickness compared to the old one. Will check it out, thank you.

Jeff, the serial number sticker on the back was removed by my son and it di ssapeared. All I have to even know the model is the original box. Will have to take it apart to try and find the reading unit part number for sure id Fixing this board is proving to be more difficult every day. I have a hard time learning that this is becoming unfixable. I can usually repair most th ings but this digital caliper board has got the best of me so far. Thank yo u for the web sites to learn more.

Checkd battery thickness, not any difference there.

What is wrong with dial calipers? I have a digital caliper, but I have to take the battery out each time I'm done with it or it dies. I used to think the case was pressing the on button, but eventually I realize the durn thing just never turns off! So I use my dial caliper which got dropped once and reads 1 or 2 thou when closed. Not a problem for most of my work.

The dial caliper came with a micrometer which I used the other day to measure the thickness of some Chinese 18 gauge wire which is really more like 20 gauge. I didn't contact the ebay seller early enough so they won't refund the money. So I'm going to buy more of the same and then give him shit. Do they *really* have to cut corners so much that they aren't even selling what they claim?

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Rick C

Absolutely nothing. He was looking for advice for the problem he has at hand.

I have two types of cheap calipers. One type really does turn off so I can leave the battery in it and it lasts for years. They other type is like yours, it keeps the electronics on to keep track of the position even when it is "turned off" which just blanks the screen, and it flattens the battery unless the battery is removed. Obviously I prefer the first type. I think the second type is trying to act like the Mitutoyo ones which keep track of the position even with the power off. The Mitutoyo ones don't flatten the battery - they have an absolute encoder so they don't need any electronics to keep track of the position when the power is off. (They patented how it works, you can read how it works if you figure out which patent it is.)

Cut the end off with flush cutters or shears and check whether it is even made of copper - I was disappointed to buy some which is copper clad aluminium.

Who cares whether they keep position between power cycles? Just zero them before use (I always check zero, anyway). The problem, like many electronic gadgets, is that the power button is "soft". I don't care if the device is line powered but it matters if it's only a button cell. I just use a dial caliper (have both imperial and metric) and dispense with all the dead battery nonsense.

Or don't buy anything but "toys" on eBay. I don't buy electrical stuff from HF, either.

What has happened to this world, why has electronics and technology in gene ral gotten so dam difficult to repair? The average consumer electronics or even general goods have become harder to repair as time goes by. For the av erage person to even try to understand basic CNC manufacturing or trying to repair a curcuit board which gives very few clues as to where and what is needed to make it work again are just not available or even understandable anymore. The demand from the consumer has been so great for bigger better f aster and cheaper has made too many goods obselete well before they are wor n. Along with this obsolescence come tiny unfixable puzzle pieces that must be thrown out and not even considered for repair. It scares me to buy anyt hing new. New technology has its benifits but repair is not one one of them

Putting on my marketeering hat... welcome to the brave new world of modern consumer electronics. Everything you mention is quite real and will become worse. You ask for reasons (not in any particular order):

1. Miniaturization has made devices more powerful, compact, integrated, and smaller, which require specialized tools to repair. The repair tools that I use today, did not exist 25 year ago.
2. Progress today is so quick and product lifetime so short, that it is not unusual for 3 to 4 replacement products to be in the development pipeline at the same time. If a problem is found with the current product, you have only to wait one product cycle time (about 6 months) for the next product to hit the market and obsolete the current product. With such a system, there's little or no incentive for manufacturers to fix any problems with the current product.
3. The GUM (great unwashed masses) will pay for features and functions, but expect bug fixes to be free. Since there's no revenue in fixing bugs, manufacturers are reluctant to fix any problems unless there's a product liability, safety, or class action issue involved.
4. Features and functions get added faster than bugs get fixed. The result is a giant bloated pile of bugs. Eventually, the bloat reaches some critical size, where no amount of added features or functions will increase reliability or sales. At this time, the manufacturer starts the learning curve over from scratch by embarrassing a new technology, and we are blessed with a fresh class of problems to fix.
5. Standards and regulatory compliance have tended to make competitive products quite similar. The only way to compete is on the basis of price or proprietary enhancements. Competing on the basis of price is a good way to kill the company as a race to the bottom. The proprietary enhancements are where most of the repair problems lurk.
6. Many companies are structured for only one purpose... to make the company sellable as a merger or acquisition. That means the company needs to look good on the prospectus. Products with useful lives measured in months are acceptable if the buyer doesn't notice the problem. It's not unusually for the a buyer to kill a few products, not because they are insufficiently profitable, but simply because they don't work or are so unreliable that they are furiously failing.
7. Using simulation software, it is now possible to predict the lifetime of specific electronic components operating under known conditions. For example, the lifetime of electrolyics can be estimated: The current thinking is that if a component lasts longer than the warranty period, it is over designed. Over design costs money, so the engineer is told to use a LESS reliable component in it's place, with the eventual goal to make have all the components fail at the same time, just after the warranty expires. When I try to fix the usual bulging electrolytic capacitors in such a product, I don't find one or two that can economically be replaced, but dozens, which cost too much repair time to be economical.
8. Component manufacturers cannot economically stock and produce repair parts forever. Eventually, most devices are no longer used in new designs, making them end-of-life, legacy, or obsolete components. Finding these parts for repairing old units can be difficult, expensive, or both. I find myself buying from component cannibals on eBay far too often.
9. The useful life of many products are intentionally limited by corporate policy. For example, Apple has declared that anything older than 5 years is a "vintage" product. Anything over 7 years is "obsolete". After 5 years, even Apple service centers cannot obtain parts from Apple. These service centers are required by Apple to use only new parts for repairs and therefore cannot scrap old boards or buy from the eBay component cannibals.
10. Many devices require specialized test fixtures and alignment jigs in order to do a proper repair. Some of these can be cloned, but in general, they have to factory calibrated. When a company decides to no longer "support" a product, all it has to do is scrap the test and alignment fixtures, and it can't be repaired, even by the factory.
11. Many designs are sufficiently complex, esoteric (weird), and undocumented, that it requires an expert with long term experience to perform repairs. When that person retires or dies, the product dies with them. I've been on mailing lists and forums, where the sum total of the collective product knowledge was in the mind of one person.
12. The low price of new products versus the cost of repair has made it more economical to purchase a new product than to repair an old product. In computahs, todays customers will buy a new machine if the cost of repair is greater than about 60% of the cost of repair. The worst case is the local county administration, which fired their in-house IT and repair department, and will replace a broken machine if the cost is more than about 20% of the cost of a new machine. The local recycler often gets 3 year old Dell and HP desktops, with nothing much wrong. I must admit that this derangement is better for the country than when they were repairing machines, which tended to promote perpetual obsolescence. It was not unusual to see Windoze 3.1 machines well into the 21st century.
13. Recycling programs have tended to promote replacement instead of repair. Recycling (tossing) old machines is now considered a good thing, while repair is perceived as collecting junk.
14. Some manufacturers have intentionally designed products that are difficult or impossible to repair. Apple didn't win any awards for filling their MacBooks with tar for securing batteries. Essentially, it's now a throw away product with a 5.000 year life.
15. With short product lifetimes, most manufacturers cut corners on documentation. Nobody reads the instructions anyway. I suspect that without the pile of legal documents, warranty disclaimers, and read me first documents, the new product boxes would not have any paperwork included. Conspicuously missing is any repair documentation. Dell, HP, and Lenovo are some of the few that include disassembly instructions. However, I still find myself looking on Youtube or iFixit for model specific disassembly instructions:

Oops... gotta run...

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Thank you Jeff, you have cleared the air on this one for sure. Money gobbling corporations and their ways smell badly. It is very poor business for the public but it must show a profit or it would not keep them open. Technology has many warts.

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Vernier calipers are great for those who have good eyesight. Even with eyeglasses I have trouble reading the vernier scale.

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