Is there a conversion or equivilant for a 12 volt,4 watt bulb that I cannot find? All the bulbs now seem to be rated in lumens (eg. 25 lumens). I would like to find one that is the same brightness as the original 4 watt bulb. The 25 lumens about half as bright as the original but I cannot find any bulbs in this size with more lumens ! !
The lumen is a measure of visible light output, weighted according to the sensitivity of the human eye, while the Watt is a measure of total power.
The relationship between the two depends upon what proportion of the power is emitted as visible light, and which wavelengths. This depends upon the type of bulb and the voltage (e.g. a 110V, 100W tungsten filament bulb tends to produce more lumens than a similar 240V, 100W bulb).
The two units don't convert directly - "lumens" is a measure of the amount of light (specifically, the amount of luminous flux, which is a measure of the perceived power of the light source), while the "watt" measurement only gives the total power dissipated by the bulb (a great deal of which becomes heat, not visible light). You have to know the luminous efficacy of the bulb, or at least the typical efficacy for that technology, to even begin to get from watts to lumens. For instance, incandescent bulbs (which are among the poorest technologies in this regard - they're popular mostly because they're cheap and have a pretty decent color) are typically in the 5-18 lm/W range. A 25 lumen, 4W bulb is just a bit above 6 lm/W, not bad for a low-wattage incandescent but certainly not outstanding either. You could likely do far better, for instance, with an LED "bulb," if you can find one with a compatible base.
Yes, because the higher voltage bulb has a higher resistance the filament has to be longer and/or thinner, it is therefore mechanically weaker and cannot be run as hot.
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FWIW I was perusing light bulbs at the local Home Despot the other day & I noticed, sitting right next to each other, two bulbs, both incandescant, same wattage rating but different lumen ratings- by about 25-30% IIRC.
Not quite, higher design voltage makes a filament longer and thinner and for a given wattage and life expectancy, the longer thinner filament is less efficient.
One lamp may have a design life expectancy of 750 hours and the other may have a design life expectancy of 3500 or 5000 hours. This alone could make one have luminous efficacy about 15% more than the other.
One lamp may be a 120V one with a coiled-coil filament with "visible overall length" about 25 mm, and the other may be a 120V one with a singly coiled filament with "visible overall length" maybe 40 mm and a smaller "overall diameter", along with multiple filament supports to improve resistance to mechanical shock and vibration. The filament with longer, thinner overall dimensions has a thinner "boundary layer" of hot gas between the filament and surrounding cooler gas, and the temperature gradient in the gas adjacent to the filament would be greater. This means more heat conduction from the filament to the surrounding gas. In addition, the filament supports will conduct a bit of heat from the filament. These factors could mean a 10-15% difference in overall luminous efficacy, more in lamps of lowest current design to be able to be designed for better efficiency with a fill gas than with a vacuum (probably somewhere around .2 amp for most lamps designed for 12 volts or more).
One lamp may be of higher quality than the other.
All of these factors combined can make quite a difference. A 100 watt
120V 750 hour lamp of a "Big 3" brand and with a coiled-coil filament is typically rated to produce 1710-1750 lumens. A 100 watt 120V 1000 hour off-brand one with a singly coiled multi-supported filament and made by a lower price "lower-than-Big-3-quality" Chinese manufacturer may be rated to produce
1100 lumens.
Lower design voltage for a given wattage and life expectancy means a shorter, thicker filament. The thicker filament can be operated at a slightly higher temperature for the same life expectancy. The thicker filament has less heat conduction loss per unit area by fill gas as explained in #2 above. Decreasing the design voltage increases luminous efficacy until the filament gets so short and thick that heat conduction through the ends of the filament becomes a really significant loss. Among 100 watt lamps, the design voltage that maximizes overall luminous efficacy tends to be a little over 12 volts (with a singly coiled filament). I look among "100A" (100 watt "medium screw base" "regular lightbulb shape and size" incandescent lamps in my "Philips catalog" ("SAG-100" printed 9/99), and the 12 volt version is rated to have an average life expectancy of 1,000 hours and to produce 2050 lumens. The 34 volt version is rated to produce 1940 lumens (1000 hours). The 230V version is rated to produce 1270 lumens (1000 hours). The 277 volt version is rated to produce 1070 lumens (1000 hours).
Various 120-130 volt versions are rated to produce 1560-1730 lumens if designed to last 750 hours.
Halogen version makes a little difference - the bulb of a halogen lamp is much more compact (since the halogen cycle allows a much more compact bulb by keeping it clean of condensed tungsten vapor) and the fill gas pressure is much higher because of a smaller sturdier bulb made of tougher material. This along with the halogen cycle achieves longer filament life and also a slight increase in filament temperature. The Philips "Halogena" 100 watt 120V version produces 1670 lumens while achieving a life expectancy of 3000 hours.
The small size of the bulb used in a halogen lamp (and also longer life) reduces the economic penalty of using a premium main inert fill gas ingredient. Sylvania appears to me to use krypton rather than argon as the main inert fill gas ingredient in at least some of their "Capsylite" lamps, and their current 100 watt 120V version A19 medium screw base version of those is rated to last 3,000 hours and to produce
1800 lumens. (Sylvania product number 18970, order abbreviation
100A/HAL/F 120V) I remember an older version from the early 1990's claimed to produce
1880 (give or take) lumens and to last 2250 (give or take) hours - I hope I remember correctly! I do remember a different bulb shape - not an "A" bulb shape, but with the wider region consisting of two butt-to-butt truncated cones.
The lumens per watts measures the efficiency of the bulb.
A typical incandescent is around 15 lumens per watt.
Differences arise if a halogen cycle is used or if there are temperature versus lifetime tradeoffs. Or if shaped "effective lumens" rather than real ones are used in sort of an antenna pattern type of thingy.
The latest of LED's are approaching 150 Lumens per watt.
A perfect green bulb would be 700 Lumens per watt. A perfect white one would be half that.
Older tutorial at
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Many thanks,
Don Lancaster voice phone: (928)428-4073
Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552
rss: http://www.tinaja.com/whtnu.xml email: don@tinaja.com
Please visit my GURU's LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com
Where can I get one? I thought only laboratory prototypes got that efficient so far. The most efficient LEDs that I am aware of being in production and on the market achieve about 80 lumens/watt.
683 by definition for 540 THz, approx. 555 nm.
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Depends on what you call white. If the "white light" is equal power per unit wavelength from 400 to 700 nm, then light source that is 100% efficient at producing such light and nothing outside the 400-700 nm range would achieve 243 lumens per watt.
However, other forms of "white light" can get higher. A perfectly 100% efficient light source producing a mixture of 576 nm yellow and 450 nm blue to approximate the color of 3500K would achieve 495 lumens per watt.
The LED trade journal is full of high efficiency leds.
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one of our banner advertisers is an industry insider with special efficiency expertise ...
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Many thanks,
Don Lancaster voice phone: (928)428-4073
Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552
rss: http://www.tinaja.com/whtnu.xml email: don@tinaja.com
Please visit my GURU\'s LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com
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