Cheap 2-pin connector/receptacle

Do I understand you to mean that you would use one of the 110V-style outlets for 110V, and the other for a 24V relay control signal?

It's a really bad idea to use two connectors of the same type for different power signals. The potential for confusing them and blowing something up is too high.

If the 24V signal is low-current (less than 1A), then you could use a 1/4" ("phone") plug, such as Switchcraft 280. They're used for guitars and the like, so they are very easy to find and are inexpensive.

Reply to
Walter Harley
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I need to find some inexpensive, but decent connector for 2 pin connection (24 VDC). That's for a TIG water cooler that I am making, I want it to be controlled by a 24V relay fed from the welder, to turn on only when it is needed. I want to have a receptacle mounted on the welder's front, and a plug to go into the receptacle, to carry the 24V current.

I am sure that something extremely cheap and simple exists. Maybe computer motherboard style plugs. I just do not know what terms to search for. I have some amphenol receptacles, but no plugs, and some different plugs, but no receptacles, etc.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus26745

Inexpensive, but I would not call them cheap. Check Switchcraft EN3 series.

greg

Reply to
GregS

Thank you Greg. I decided to do it in another way. I already have one double receptacle 110V outlet on my welder. They are currently both intended for using an external arc starter and are switched by the AS relay. I rewired my welder anyway to use the internal arc starter. (this welder was used previously as part of some complicated automatic welding setup).

I am going to break the contact between these two receptacles, continue to use one of the receptacles for HF arc starting, and would use another receptacle for the water pump. This water pump receptacle would be controlled by the 24V relay, wired to the COMMON and WATER contacts on the relay contact terminal block. I have this nice terminal block with 24 v contacts for all kinds of conditions, such as welder on, gas valve open, welding current on, preflow on, postflow on, blah blah.

This way, there would be no drilling of the outside panel of the welding machine.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus26745

That is not what I meant. Both receptacles would provide 110V, however, one would be controlled by a 24V relay from the water terminal on the 24v terminal strip. So, one receptacle would provide power only when the welding machine thinks that water should be circulating through the torch.

Yep.

Yes, but, I think that it is better to just use the existing receptacle rather than drill new ugly holes. The water pump motor is

1/3 HP, and the welder has a 9 or 10A fuse. Ought to be enough. i
Reply to
Ignoramus26745

Jeeziz, iggy! Weren't you bragging about being some kind of Terrestrial Neelix or something? If as much junque goes through your place as you seem to intimate, you must be awash in suitable connectors! Just pick one that looks sensible.

Good Luck! Rich

Reply to
Rich, Under the Affluence

Actually, I figured out the best way to do it, which is to convert one of the 110v outlets on the welder to be drive by a solid state relay from that 24v terminal. The pump would plug into that outlet.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus26745

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