Antenna for cordless phone

If you give us the FCC ID number off the device, it can be easily looked up on the FCC's "Equipment Authorization Search" web page: Link:

That is why I asked you for the number (May 17th). If the device is new enough to have been recently certified (i.e, within the last decade), there's a reasonably good chance that both its photographs and its parts lists (BOM) are available online at the FCC. At which point, you will not have to describe the antenna to us, and in fact, you may find your answer directly.

It is worth a shot, in my opinion.

You may have to do an advanced search, if you can't find the FCC ID nameplate, but US law requires it to be permanently attached to the device. Sometimes this is a decal; other times it may be thermoformed into the plastic housing itself (and often difficult to read), but you should be able to locate it. If you still have the User's Manual, look at the Specification Page and the FCC ID can usually be found there as well.

-mpm

He probably gave up. It became a bit more complex that he was prepared to tackle.

John

Sorry, no, I had said I would drag the base up to the roof and walk the area to try to record where *exactly* the dropouts were with the base ON THE ROOF. Then, repeat the exercise with it back inside on the counter. I figured any other chat on the subject would just be speculative without hard facts.

But, I've been busy getting ready for a 1,200 mile road trip (new tires, today... I'll change the oil tomorrow, etc.) and trying to get other "obligations" off my calendar. Cordless phone just didn't rise to the level of urgency to bump some of these other things :>

I'll try to print out a couple drawings of the neighborhood so that when I "make the rounds" I can just mark "good" or "bad" as appropriate. Just need the *time* to do it! :-/

Thx,

--don

The "handsets" have a short whip -- about 6" long (non retractable). Actually, there are two choices for the antenna -- I can't recall which ones I have installed currently (probably the longer of the two sizes).

The "base" has a similar size (maybe 8"?) though packaged more like the antennae you find on a wireless router (i.e., encased in plastic or somesuch)

Yes, I would not like to end up with an antenna on the roof. Though, I might be able to locate it *in* the "ceiling". Or, in the chimney for the fireplace (as I plan on removing the fireplace -- silly thing to have in this part of the country! :> )

Again, a lot of this "exercise" is a practice run for me to sort out the issues that will affect doing the same thing with WiFi access point :-/ (the adage "make one to throw away" :> )

I figure if I just take the entire base unit up to the roof, there's nothing "questionable" about that! I.e., just like having another "story" on the house. From there, I can see how *good* the signal would be (with no cable losses, etc.). If that isn't going to cut it, I may just wait for the access point and use a WiFi phone (assuming I can get better coverage with WiFi)

These connectors (on the wireless router) are much larger diameter than that. More like a BNC but with a knurled (screw on) outer connector instead of the bayonet style.

Hmmm... I've seen "antenna with gain" *sold* for WiFi applications. Gray market?

I know my current AP explicitly allows other antenna to be used (Cisco AP1231G) -- I've just been using a pair that I pulled off a linksys WRT54G (so much for "making it difficult for consumers to connect antennas..."! :-/ )

I think the AP is some sort of TNC. The antenna connector on the phone's base unit is similar but not identical. E.g., I remove the antenna from the base by unscrewing "backwards" (left-handed threads?) whereas the AP unscrews "normally". I think the guts of the connector are also different sexes (i.e., the center conductor) -- though the outer shells (threaded portions) are identical (in size and pitch).

I looked through the manual *briefly* and couldn't find a reference to the connector type (antenna gain is 5dBi) though I am *sure* it was "reverse TNC" (that's not the sort of detail I come across in my normal routine so it seems unlikely that I just "made it up")

That seems like a pretty lame approach! Like using clutch head screws to discourage people from disassembling bits of kit. Sheesh! It's a mechanical item. No "secrets" involved. How long do they think that "protection by obscurity" will last??

:<

That connector looks too small. This looks more like it (for the AP; the antenna fro the phone base has a *male* center conductor):

It's an RP-TNC or Reverse Polarity - TNC. It's a TNC that's had a sex change.

It was.

Sex change being the type of center conductor *and* the direction of the threads? (or, is the thread issue something else?)

Don, if you have access to the group:

alt.binaries.e-book.technical Please note e-book not the other group with the name "books"

There is a book posted called:

"Wiley Wi-Fi Toys 15 Cool Wireless Projects for Home, Office, and Entertainment.pdf"

that covers your situation.

Have a pleasent trip

Regards

John

I checked and none of the alt.binaries groups are covered on this server. But, I can chase it down elsewhere. Thanks!

I'm not the one traveling. I just have to do all the *preparations*! :-/ (while it probably takes more total

(I'm getting cranky in my old age and find travel to be a real nuisance :< )

That sounds like it's either industrial use phones or stuff from the early 90's. If the latter make sure you can still get replacement batteries.

Moving the base "as is" to another location would be legit I assume. Best to find a location that has the least in RF barriers around it. RF barriers would be armored concrete, wood frame walls aluminum-backed fiber insulation in there, any flashing in the area, gutters, downspouts, earthquake straps and so on. A tree that carries a lot of moisture in its canopy is also not so good. But talk to SWMBO before using the chain saw :-)

I think it was originally designed for industrial use. E.g., they advertise being able to use it *inside* an 11 story building (i.e. *through* 10 floors)

I imagine I can have some made for it if push came to shove. Or, buy another/newer unit (or, switch to a WiFi phone). Regardless, the antenna issues will remain.

I can't see how anyone could complain! Who's to say it can only be used in a 2 story residence? 3 story? 10 story office complex? etc. How is that any different than me putting it on the roof??

I think *in* the ceiling is best compromise. I.e., the drywall doesn't extend up into that area so no worry about foil backing. No wiring up there, etc.

No gutters or downspouts -- rainfall is usually too heavy for these and just rips them off people's houses. Unfortunate as it would make water harvesting a lot easier (instead, I have to install french drain and pump)

"Earthquake straps"??

Of course, I can't control what the *neighbors* have in their yards (and, by definition, that includes *all* my neighbors since the goal is to be able to walk the entire neighborhood!)

Maybe pray for a good storm season this Summer? :>

RP-TNC treads are standard TNC (righty-tighty, lefty-loosey). The sex change was to the center conductor.

Ok, that's a thing for us Californians. At least if you don't want to end up with a big old crack in the house.

Or get a cell phone ... :-)

But then you'd need the luck D.J.Delorie had. A tornado turned direction probably milliseconds before reaching his house.

change.

So what is this called if the center conductor is "changed"

=20

wire.=20

=20

that.

If you are interested enough to do some of the heavy lifting; check out=20

for antenna analysis code and theory.

Lots of free stuff available, but it is not polished.

It shouldn't be hard to get a cardiod horizontal pattern and a rather flat vertical "torus".

I am digging into it myself.

change.

A bastard. AFAIK, it's not a standard connector (or you don't know your right from your left ;-).

change.

I double-checked (though left-handed threads feel *so* unnatural that it's hard to misremember that sort of experience!). The connector on the phone's base unit *is* left-hand threaded.

So, I guess it is an "RT-RP-TNC"?