Simple 6vdc #44 lamp flashing circuits?

I collect old pinball machines and want to try modding one of my EM games (relays, switches etc., not digital or solid state) so that some of the #44 lamps can have blinking/flashing effects when they're lit. Been playing this one particular game for 20 years and just want to jazz it up a little : ) The lamps run on 6v AC but I at least know how to convert that to DC with a bridge rectifier. So basically I wish I had a simple as possible 6v DC #44 lamp flashing circuit whereby I could tweak, via resistor/cap values etc., both the flashing speed *and* the % of 'on' vs 'off' time during each blink.

Note, these games also often use #455 flasher bulbs behind the backglasses but they are too randomish and way too low of an 'on' time % to look good on the playing field. I thought about leds too but I want to keep the original color and appearance of 44s when blinking. Leds have that instant on/off that is harsher looking than 44s with their filament heating and cooling.

You dudes 'n gals in this ng could no doubt draw out the circuit with your eyes closed, but I am only expert at electromechanical workings and repair, not studied up on SS electronics at all. Thank you for any assistance or info folks!

Reply to
frenchy
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...and draw 250mA, so the "easiest" solution (an LM555) is out (without an additional driver transistor).

If the bulbs were paired as the collector loads of a free-running multivibrator, the 2 bulbs would alternate.

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Reply to
JeffM

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What you want is fairly easy to do, and I'll be happy to help you, but
I need some more information. 

When the #44s are turned on, what makes that happen, a relay?
Reply to
John Fields

+1

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Replace the transistors shown in the left schematic with 2N2222A parts.

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Substitute your bulb for one of the the LEDs shown and change the resistor value in the "bulb" collector circuit from 470 ohms to 1 ohm, 1/4 W to set brightness.

Leave the other collector circuit unchanged.

Vary the value of the '39K' and '10 uF' parts to change duty cycle and flash rate.

Don't seal the circuit up in a tiny box. Allow some air flow past the components.

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

I once had a job repairing pinball games of all kinds. One thing I noted was that on the electronic ones, they used half-wave rectified AC on all the lamps, and SCRs to control them. They just put DC on the gate; when the gate voltage goes to zero, the SCR turns off at the bottom of the half-cycle.

Of course, you'll still need some DC to run your multivibrator.

Have Fun! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

something like this ?

330uf D2 R1 300 ohm 6 Volt AC || ___ +-------+-||-+-+-+>|+-+|___|+----+---------------+ | || | | | /+\ | | + ( ) + 100u --- | \-/ | --- + | D1 - |
Reply to
Jamie

Your transistor base is open. I think you are trying some kind of "delay on" circuit with a one second period. The OP wants some control so he needs to try something like

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My first thought was just some automotive type thermal flasher in series. A quick google shows that there are 6 volt 8 watt flashers. the OP could just run 8 watts of his small lamps with each flasher.

Reply to
bw

Someone with electromechanical skill should have been able to do these;

  1. Try a scrap microwave oven turntable motor to operate a cam or microswitches.
  2. Attach a mercury switch on a pivot with spring on the other end, then a delay solenoid to pull and release the spring.
  3. formatting link
  4. Use a themal flasher.
  5. Purchase something like this
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  1. Etc

Reply to
bw

I tested some delay circuits a couple of years ago that will do what the OP wants, but I see what Jamie is doing now. Here is link with more info

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Reply to
bw

how about a flasher bulb in series with a relay coil?

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Reply to
Jasen Betts

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You like that :)

You'll also notice how I jacked up the voltage to make it work!

Jamie

Reply to
Jamie

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It appears that the relatively low value of the emitter-base reverse-breakdown voltage is being employed. Without an explanation, someone not familiar with that phenomenon will be scratching his head.

Reply to
JeffM

Its a side effect found years ago. I discovered it while performing repairs on a circuit that had lost its base connection. At that time I thought I found something new, but to later find that it was already a known phenomena.. What a let down that was ;)

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Jamie

Reply to
Jamie

"frenchy" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@h3g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...

Well, to achieve the blinking you want to see you need what's called a astable multivibrator. These circuits can be made using discretes, timers like a 555 or even a smal micro.

To power the electronics you need a reasonable smoothed DC power supply. Except for the bridge rectifier you mentioned already, you'll need a smoothing capacitor. Its value mainly depends on the load. The multivibrator electronics require very little current but if you want te drive the bulb as well you'll need about 300mA.

Driving the bulb requires a medium power transistor, a thyristor or a triac depending on the way you want to drive the bulb.

The most simple way - for you - maybe a piece of electronics that can be connected between the wires and the bulb. But that'l only work well if the bulb is powered directly from the 6Vac source. If it's part of another circuit as well, in series with other bulbs for instance or parallel to a relay, you'l have to take that into account.

Besides what's the rough estimation of the on- and off times you want to achieve?

petrus bitbyter

Reply to
petrus bitbyter

That won't work with just any old NPN. Ed

Reply to
ehsjr

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