I had a Macintosh rack mount early style solid state stereo amplifier that used incandescent lamps in the bias circuit for stability. You had to tighten the lamps now and then..
I was on site today and did some testing. When the motion output is connected to the bulbs and the motion is stable and when power is applied(for Winston) the current is .01 amps or 10 milliamps. For what it is worth when the motion is tripped the current draw is 1.6 amps.
I have on the way to me at this time a number of 20k ohm 2 watt resistors for some experiments. Hopefully this will be the ultimate fix for this project.
I do have an alternative solution to make this work. That would be to connect one of the bulbs and the sense wire of the module to the motion output and the other bulb to the output of the module. What happens is that when the motion is activated it turns on the one bulb and since this output is connected to sense wire of the module it then turns on the other bulb when the module is activated. The only downside of this setup is that when the module is trigger from the alarm panel it only turns on one bulb. Not really the desired function but I have tested this and it does work.
I would like to thank all that have helped me brain storm this challenge. Please give yourselves a pat on the back along with a few attaboys!!
That's 720 mW per resistor with the light on. The '2 W' rating is for free air, so please don't box the resistor tightly. :) Consider the heatsink - compatible resistors so you can get rid of heat.
some experiments. Hopefully this will be
George Simon just mentioned that you're still gonna end up with 75 V if you pull down that leakage current with a 20K resistor. Is that far enough below the threshold voltage of the sense line on your module? I Dunno (TM).
We know the threshold voltage is above 0.095 V because that is what your first bulb leaves you when you connect it as you mention below.
There is a whole bunch of uncertainty between 75 V and 0.095 V! :)
You now have a purpose for that nifty Variac autotransformer you've been hiding. Connect it to the sense line and determine just what that threshold voltage is, for each one of your modules, I advise.
That was the current draw of the lamps when OFF(.01amps) and then when ON(1.6amps).
I don't have a powerstat of any kind to test the trip point of the sense wire. But, I am thinking that really should not matter much.
At this point I am still waiting for the resistors to come in. Then I can play (safely) or have some controlled diagnostic evaluations with out any serious catastrophic failures.
It'll matter if you need to provide step - down transformers on the 'slave' outputs of your PIR sensor lights in order to drive your Insteon modules properly. :)
I bet the engineers at Smarthome know the threshold voltage of the sense input on Item# 2475S2 by heart and can get you a good answer very quickly:
R1 is the OFF resistance of whatever's doing the switching in the motion detector, C1 is a lossless reactance which, in series with R2 and the resistance of the relay coil, will provide the impedance necessary to limit the current in the coil to 6.25mA when the motion detector is hot.
R2 is used to limit the current into the diodes to a safe value if the motion detector goes hot on either the negative or positive peak of the mains.
The relay is an OMRON G5V-1 24VDC:
formatting link
which has a 24VDC coil with a resistance of 3840 ohms and is driven by half-wave rectified AC smoothed by C2
R3 is used to provide a relatively low-impedance path to ground for the leakage current from the motion detector and makes sure that the voltage into C1 won't be high enough to fire the relay.
When the motion detector goes hot the mains voltage will be impressed across R3 for a few milliseconds (until the relay disengages from the NC terminal, so during that time the resistor will be dissipating quite a bit of power.
Assuming that the input to the resistor was a rectangular waveform 170 volts high and 5 milliseconds wide would make the power dissipated by the resistor about 29 watts, but for 5 milliseconds that comes out to
145 millijoules.
A likely candidate for that resistor would be a 1/2 watt Panasonic ERG(X)S:
formatting link
which can take a 50 watt hit for 50ms.
I actually built the circuit and tested it with a 1/4 watt carbon film, and although it worked OK, I think that's a little too close for comfort.
TEXT 1120 112 Left 2 ;OUT TEXT -128 -112 Left 2 ;MOTION DETECTOR TEXT 328 -112 Left 2 ;RECTIFIER - FILTER TEXT 840 -112 Left 2 ;SPDT RELAY TEXT -320 -112 Left 2 ;MAINS
Thanks for all the input. Very interesting. Today I was on site again and did some testing.
I had with me the 20k 2 watt resistors. What I found was that with one resistor from the motion detector output to Neutral it pulled leakage voltage down to 16.5vac. When the sense wire from the module was connected the module was triggered and the lights turned ON.
Applied 2 resistors in parallel and the voltage dropped to about
8vac and again when the sense wire was connected the module was triggered and the lights turned ON.
Applied 3 resistors in parallel and the voltage dropped to about
5.5vac and again when the sense wire was connected the module was triggered and the lights turned ON.
Applied 4 resistors in parallel and the voltage dropped to about
4.2vac and it was at this point the module did not trigger. So it would seem that the threshold voltage of the sense wire is approximately 5vac.
By my crude testing I am thinking a 3.9k 2 watt resistor should do the trick.
This is the Pulse Engineering 020-5371.0 (Digikey BV020-5371.0-ND). It is a 120 to 13.5 V transformer that will give you about 2.5 VAC when off and 13.5 VAC when on, to drive your module from the output of your PIR light.
It measures 23 mm x 22 mm x 19 mm. One part. Very little wasted power.
I'm just catching up on your post and it seems that there may be no good =
reason to use the sense lead at all, in which case it may be = deactivated. I=20 think its only purpose is to require the motion detector AND the = automation=20 device to be turned ON in order to light the lamps. In other words, a = wired=20 AND gate.
If you want to be able to turn on the lamps EITHER because motion is=20 detected OR there is an alarm condition which triggers the automation=20 device, you want a wired OR gate. So you should be able to connect the=20 switched output lead of the automation device to the red lead of the = motion=20 detector which is also connected to the lamps. So the lights will turn = ON=20 anytime motion is detected OR there is an alarm.
That seems almost too simple. Maybe I'm missing something?
I believe that is the case Paul, though I agree with your larger idea. :)
From the readings supplied by the OP Les, (ABLE1) it is pretty clear that the red wire from his PIR security light isn't connected to the lamps in the same housing.
With the PIR sensor inactive, Les indicated that the red wire measured 120 VAC WRT neutral, which is a somewhat larger value than you would expect to see across the filaments of two extinguished flood lights.
--
Not necessarily, since with the lamps in place, and off, the leakage
resistance of the switch would be connected to neutral through the low
off resistance of the lamp.
From Les's last post it appears that the leakage resistance of the
switch in the motion detector is about 130 - 140 kohms:
E2
/
E1 | -+-O |
| |
+-[R1]-+
|
[R2]
|
AC>--------+
With E1 being the mains voltage, R1 being the leakage resistance, and
R2 being the resistance of his test resistors, R1 will be:
R2 (E1-E2)
R1 = -----------
E2
which comes out to:
R2 R1
-----+------
20k 130k
10k 140k
5k 138k
Substituting two 100 watt lamps in parallel for R2, then, yields a
cold resistance of about 8 ohms and a voltage at E2 of about 7
millivolts.
However, with R2 open the voltage at E2 will measure close to 120V
because of the high impedance of the voltmeter.
So, because of Les's posts, I believe the red wire is connected to
lamp hot.
Easy enough to find out, just continuity test. With the mains
disconnected...
I hadn't remembered that Les mentioned on March 17: "When bulbs are installed and the unit is powered up the output to the bulbs is at zero(0). If the bulbs are not connected or installed the output is 120vac."
So, Les. What about John's idea? If the switching device in your security system module is 'high side' as is he switching device in your PIR floodlamp, what is stopping you from placing them in parallel so that either or both can power the lights?
Would the security module be confused by having it's sense wire connected to it's own output?
It would seem that I could not see the forest for the trees. I was concentrating so hard on the way the mfg. was showing how to wire this thing up and proceeded that way. When Paul posed his question of why not just connect both outputs to the lamps I wanted to use a hammer on my head. Then I stopped myself before doing some mass destruction and thought that maybe the mfg. had a reason for not describing this way to make the connections in that it may back-feed the module and cause it to blow up or something. Just contacted tech support and was told that it will NOT cause a problem in this wiring plan. Just cap the yellow sense wire and go for it. My next small concern would be that of back-feeding the motion output may cause a similar issue, but I doubt it would.
So what this comes down to, is that for once I decided to RTFM and to follow the instructions and should NOT have done so.
Thanks all for the help in this challenge. And a special thanks to John for stepping back and turning on the light. :-)
--
Be very careful here.
While the switch in the module may be able to hold off the 120V from
the motion detector, and vice versa, make sure that their outputs are
in phase or you'll be in for a nasty surprise if they're not and they
both go hot.
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