Stubborn 3mm screws

I have a small impact driver - Makita TD020D - which is just brilliant for such things. The impact mechanism means far less chance of 'slot' damage/cam out. It even took out some door hinge slotted screws that had been painted over.

One of the best power tools ever made.

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*Windows will never cease *

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Get your self an impact driver. They come in the manual or power driven type.. A manual with a small hammer will do just fine to break them loose.

"

Is the Makita function left-handed percusive torque with only marginal rotation or as a conventional power drill with hammer action, ie requiring rotation of the driver shaft to activate the hammering ?

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

take your sharpest pair of diagonal cutters and grab the head from above. Unless the screw is made of hardened steel, the blades will get a good grip and allow you to break the screw loose with a twist. Works 98% of the time.

Crikey. It's an impact driver - not hammer drill. So the impact action works with the bit stationary. Anything else would be pointless for undoing screws.

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    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
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Heating the phillips head? Metal expands with heat.

If it threads into metal, you might try heating the metal it threads into. And, of course, all manner of solvents. Do you have Liquid Wrench over there?

Just little thoughts ...

P

"Take Yo' Hand Out My Pocket (I Ain't Got Nothing What Belongs To You)!" - Rice Miller, who probably never even _heard_ of GW Bush, Paulson, etc

the

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if it's accessible grabbing the head with a vicegrips or similar; maybe the "long nose" variety.

I'll have to look into this, I had assumed that motorised impact drivers were were rotational rather than percusive torque. So you can select just the percussive action in a reverse sense on its own without engaging the screwdriver rotation ? I've not seen it explicitly stated on the blurb I've read so far. Looks like a crizzy prezz if so.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

Difficult to explain - they sort of whack the thing round. When driving in a screw obviously the rotation stops at some point otherwise it would shear. And obviously too when removing a tight screw it starts whacking it before the rotation starts. At the worst it might not actually undo a very tight screw but just make noise. ;-)

No. It runs at a constant speed until a given resistance occurs then the impact action starts and the rotation speed slows down.

Indeed. It punches far above its weight. Small enough to fit the pocket but will do most things around the house. As well as the workbench. The other real benefit is they are not tiring to use as you don't sort of have to resist the torque with your wrist. So if screwing down lots of floorboards etc far better than an ordinary cordless drill/driver.

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*No husband has ever been shot while doing the dishes *

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
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Sounds useful, but I'd still have had to make some sort of long extender / adaptor for the current problem. But crizzy prezz likely

In reply to someone else, heating with soldering iron , was in attempt to break down the glue or varnish or whatever was holding so firmly.

Had to revert to my previous technique of grinding 2 flats into the domed heads and then 2 could be undone with a small 3.5mm open ender screwdriver. This time used an 1/8 inch cylinder centride burr in a Dremmel instead of small grind stone. The other 2 I could get to with a pipe wrench, of all things, because of the good leverage and right angle action.

So perhaps a sight no one has seen since production of Aiwa 6900 tape decks in 1978. Trying to sort out a brakes problem otherwise totally enclosed and impossible to glimpse any sort of view, only rather confusing exploded views in the manual. B = brakes, S = their activation solenoid.

the hidden jockey assembly and its activation lever train with secondary motor under the rubber pulley and mounting plate

So it is possible to work on the deck without half taking the m/c to bits first. So you have to reassemble before checking it out and so often you put something back in the wrong position. But you do have to wrestle with those glued screws. As one of them has nearly straight action with long handle screwdriver but would not undo, then still a problem with the deck removed and a straight attack to all 4 screws to get apart.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

It takes standard hex bits so any hex extender will work. It comes with a couple, IIRC.

However, the handle snaps between pistol and inline. In the inline position it's very little larger than a screwdriver handle.

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*The man who fell into an upholstery machine is fully recovered*

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
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Are you sure they're not POZI ?

A Philips driver WILL wreck them. Read the article. Very little is Philips these days.

Graham

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but obsolete these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

You'll probably only see Philips heads on US manufactured kit. Along with inches, feet, pounds, ounces, degrees Fahrenheit at al.

Graham

Plenty still use the term for any cross head screw.

I'm pretty certain Mr Cook knows there is more than one type...

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    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
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Come to replace them and they are not in fact 3mm , bit larger than 2.5mm , they would seem to be 3 UNF threads on 1978 Japanese Aiwa AD9700. Well 3 UNF threaded screws have gone back in there comfortably and securely, manual just specifies some company stock number. Whatever they were , for the size of crosshead (saves argument), they were well glued in .

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

obsolete

Proper measurements you mean?

;)

Which is 100% WRONG. Pozidrives have been available for about 40 years, so there's hardly any excuse not to use the correct term. They are totally different.

Also there are LOTS of cheap Asian screwdrivers out there with a cross-head that are to NEITHER spec and will wreck screws very easily.

Graham

On equipment of that era it was common to indicate metric thread screws with an embossed dimple on the head.

Graham

Nor is pozidriv the only alternative design. I'm constantly coming across crosshead screws where a genuine pozidriv screwdriver of the correct size doesn't fit.

But think Hoover - it's a very long time since they were the brand leader but the use of their name as a generic continues.

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    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.