Re: Removing Large Electrolytics

Aug 22, 2018 9 Replies


+1 for can-opening it to save wear and tear on the board. If you


> measure 45 ohms ESR in-circuit, it won't be better by itself.

Well, it's hardly surprising for an electro of this age. Clearly the original component from a scope with a s/n indicating it was manufactured


44 years ago! What was more surprising was that only 2 out of 6 electros in the PSU section showed abnormal readings (the remaining faulty one has gone leaky).
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Sounds about par for the course. Go back further to paper caps and it'd be a surprise to find any still working properly. And yes, micamold were paper caps.

NT

You're not kidding. My largest iron is 40W/80W switchable. 40W won't touch it and I'm not risking 80W! The biggest problem seems to be the cap case - a long 1" dia aluminium tube with 3 tags at the bottom going straight to PCB grounds. It's acting like a very effective heat sink. Going to have to trash the caps from above.:(

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I have a Keithley 410 Micro-Microammeter from about 1960 that has all its original electros and still works fine. Of course it uses an electrometer tube, so it takes a good couple of hours' warm-up to settle down on the 100-fA FS range, but it eventually does.

It has way more soul than my 610C(*), but really isn't nearly as good a meter. (Don't anybody tell it, though--it has an honoured place on my bench shelf.)

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

(*) "Now Nortons and Indians and Greeveses won't do...They don't have a soul like a Vincent '52." -- Richard Thompson

Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com

Cursitor Doom prodded the keyboard with:

Have you tried making a soldering bit with a piece of split copper tube and a cooks torch to heat it. Apply to all the pins up at once.

Best Regards: Baron.

I've got a box full of the oil & paper caps that come in cubiod cans and they all tested fine (I have an awful lot of vintage spares here). Not so sure about the tubular paper caps which I assume you're talking about, though.

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Moisture + acid paper + foil = mess. That'll take a lot longer if the cap has metal on five sides.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com

My prewar metal can paper caps are all wax sealed, and every last one tested dead as a very dead thing. The non-metal seal is where it can go wrong. Not sure why they didn't use bitumen.

NT

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