Purpose of fuse in televlision

Hi Micky,

Twice the voltage in something not prepared for it is a crap shoot to fix. And sounds like you have taken a US television abroad? Heap of pain with standards and frequencies?

As others have posted, yeah - buy/bag a used TV

Some folks are throwing out their perfectly good 'old' 4 yr old LCD TVs the same way some of them throw out their mobile phones.

It's the apps. They have to have their apps.

It's a TV!

Adrian Caspersz wrote: ==================

But when iron transformers ruled, it mostly only blew a supply fuse. Such transformers draw a HUGE current when double voltaged and save the circuitry.

.... Phil

It's amazing how just a tiny burn becomes a distraction. I put up with a barely visible dot on a TV for about a year because I couldn't get out to buy a new one. Eventually a friend bought me a new one because she was sick of me moaning about the dot!

Yes, it is. The possibility of a 'floating neutral' means that a 240V input from a nominal 120V socket is a (relatively) common kind of home wiring failure.

I think 'Micky' uses a random generator to bring up all these questions. He doesn't even want an answer. He just wants to roil up the newsgroups.

This isn't the only newsgroup he does this random question generation on. I think he does it for fun but we'd have to ask him why he does it.

He'd be better off then spamming Quora, who *encourages* this type of inane questioning and will actually pay you if you can pump enough questions into their site.

The fact that he/she/they/them/it is an idiot/troll/an AI program was apparent from his first few posts. No one can be that stupid, well then again, there are exceptions. Ignore him/her/they/them/it and (hopefully) it will go away. J

The purpose of a fuse is for protection of the consumer (or consumer's house) in the event of any electrical failure beyond the comprehension of the consumer. The fuse is designed to open up even with the slightest of problems. Safety first. The circuits start out as AC (alternating current) power and have to go through a few power conversions. There is AC to DC conversion and AC to AC conversion. In your case, it sounds like you had an over-voltage condition (a form of overload on the input power, or a form of a power surge). From what you tell the board or forum, more than likely it is a one-off situation. I would spend the $3 on the replacement fuse (and never use tin foil or a penny for a number of various reasons, some of them obvious).

Other reasons why fuses blow is because of short circuits, failed components, overcurrent conditions, and overvoltage conditions. Seems like you had an overvoltage condition (which is a relatively minor problem, based on what you said) versus the other reasons fuses blow. This is a small part of some of the failures found in electronics.

I am not sure what you do for either a hobby, business or living of any nature. What is clear is that your knowledge of fuses is a mile wide, but only an inch deep.

Some basics: a) Fuses do age. and fuses that run even reasonably close to their rating age rather quickly. Dozens of months, not dozens of years. b) Fuses come in many types - most basic are "Normal", "Slow Blow" and "Time Delay", not to be confused with Slow Blow. Within each basic category are sub-sets:

"Normal" also comes in Fast-Blow and Ultra-Fast Blow. "Slow Blow" also comes in Very-Slow-Blow - You might see these types on Kilns and other very heavy resistance-only loads where equipment failure is very rare, and the fuses are rated against nuisance failures. "Time Delay", AKA Dual-Element Fuses can handle an initial surge, then revert to 'standard' or 'fast' behavior. Mostly seen on motor-loads, but useful for tube equipment, as cold filaments have very low resistance. With these fuses, the amount and time of the surge tolerated varies.

The OP does not understand the nature of the fuse in the Device. Just as you do not understand the 'which fuse' question. However, it is clear that the fuse failed properly - not from age - and that there is something else going on. 8 amps! that is a lot of current into even a very large-screen TV. Our vintage, very large plasma TV pulls half of that. So, whatever is going on is serious. As to bypassing fuses - DO SO FIRST IF ONE MUST across either (an) incandescent lamp(s) of some wattage such that one might predict how bright it should be, 8 amps @ 110 VAC is 880 watts - start with 200 watts and see if that goes to full brightness. Unless the screen is huge, I cannot imagine that, as "Book" on a 60" LED is 200 watts. "Book" on a similar Plasma is 500 watts. But, NEVER with a jumper. Then again, is the OP's fuse at line-level, or down-line? Hmmmm...

I have a little outboard fuse block that I will jumper into a piece of equipment so as to be able to do tests - but there is STILL a fuse involved.