Tube fuse stuck in the tube

Hi, I have a ceramic tube fuse that is stuck. The fuse blew last week, and is set inside a tube that is just barely larger than the fuses diameter. The fuse is recessed about a 1/2" back. It's not magnetic, so a little magnet rod won't work. I've tried a little super glue on the end of a nail head, but that didn't work either, the glue connection failed. It's really stuck. This happened once before and we ended up tearing apart the fuse trying to dislodge it and in turn tore up the housing. Cost us $125 to replace that. I'd prefer not to go that route again if it's avoidable. Any ideas???

Thanks! Chip

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Chipperoni
Reply to
Chipperoni
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Chipperoni Inscribed thus:

Drill a small 1mm hole in the end and use a barbed fish hook straightened out, grip with pliers to pull it out.

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Best Regards: 
                        Baron.
Reply to
Baron

If you have a good ironwith a chisel tip you may be able to solder a lead to the end cap and yank it out. You might also melt something.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

get a 6/32 start tap (tapered) and proper drill bit, something tells me it maybe a #29 but don't quote me on that one. Drill a hole in the end cap of the fuse, and then try to tap it. Use the tap or a 6/32 screw to gently pull it out.

Jamie

Reply to
Jamie

I would find a metal cylinder sleeve to protect the housing and a small sharp drill bit, Don't drill for long or the heat will break the bond to the cap. Stop the drill , in situ, and hopefully pull out the fuse. Failing that , assuming you have a hole, then a thin tapered screw jammed in the hole and pulled. If the cap, only, dislodges then use the fuse barrel as a sleeve and continue drilling to the end , for a second attempt at snagging the drill bit.

Reply to
N_Cook

Well, after a couple days (and a trial run on another fuse) I attempted the drill/screw/pull technique. I'm happy to say it was successful. Here's what happened. There is a plastic ring that heat shrunk around the middle of the fuse. The ring's purpose was to give the end cap something to lock on to. So I got the fuse out, but the ring came with it. So now I have to figure out how to get the cap to stay depressed in the unit so the fuse stays connected. A much easier problem to contend with. Thanks for all the help!

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Chipperoni
Reply to
Chipperoni

That is true that the approvals testing is absolutely only for the electrical safety of the device. No consideration is made of the suitability or whether it does what it claims. But so long as it does not burn the environment, or allow little fingers to probe into live parts, then that is all that is being tested.

peter

Reply to
Peter

And if none of the suggestions so far get the fuse out - replacing the fuse holder outright would be a *VERY* good idea!

Reply to
Ian Field

Sounds like that fuse holder will just be a PITA again at some later date - best bet is replace it with one that isn't a bit dodgy.

Reply to
Ian Field

I like this but don't think you need the tap. It's hard to tap sheet metal anyhow. Drill the hole, use a sheet metal screw that at the hole's diameter is still getting bigger, screw it in until it's hard to screw, pull it all out with needle nose.

Reply to
micky

Well I always have a portable tap drill set with a battery operated drill in my tool set, it isn't much (small) but it gets me by. I also use it for screw and nut driver functions. Using the tap to extract an end cap of a fuse would be handy for me since I would already have it..

Also, depending on how deep the fuse end would be, would determine if a skinny sheet metal screw long enough to reach would be available.

Jamie

Reply to
Jamie

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