Panasonic pt-47wx53 intermittent red color

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Does it fade in and out or abrupt transition? Is the red still there but not saturated red? Have you tried replacing the lead/s & checking with different source signals?

thanks for responding..when the color goes out it is abrupt. I have opened up the back to see that the lamp is completely out; no glow at the base. The only thing I have done is look for obvious signs of a short; no electrical tesing. What sometimes works is unplugging the set and allowing it to reset...sometimes it works, sometimes not. The red color will reappear after some time (anywhere from 5 minutes to 5 hours).

I have ruled out the projector lamp in that the light

It's not a "lamp", it's a cathode ray picture tube, and you haven't elimina ted that yet. Other than the fact they both generate light (and are under vacuum), lamps and CRTs have very little in common. It's not uncommon for CRTs to have intermittent issues, although Panasonic projection CRTs are un commonly reliable. If this were a Sony, I'd suggest rolling it to the near est landfill.

The two most likely causes of a single color dropout are either a problem o n the CRT socket board (bad connection or intermittent kine out transistor) , or a bad G2\F block. The easiest thing to do at this point is to swap th e G2 leads on the block from the red to either the green or blue, and see i f a different color drops out. If so, replace the block.

If not, you're going to need a service manual, scope and dmm and know how t o use them. Careful, there's a lot of voltage on those CRTS..

I have ruled out the projector lamp in that the light

It's not a "lamp", it's a cathode ray picture tube, and you haven't eliminated that yet. Other than the fact they both generate light (and are under vacuum), lamps and CRTs have very little in common. It's not uncommon for CRTs to have intermittent issues, although Panasonic projection CRTs are uncommonly reliable. If this were a Sony, I'd suggest rolling it to the nearest landfill.

The two most likely causes of a single color dropout are either a problem on the CRT socket board (bad connection or intermittent kine out transistor), or a bad G2\F block. The easiest thing to do at this point is to swap the G2 leads on the block from the red to either the green or blue, and see if a different color drops out. If so, replace the block.

If not, you're going to need a service manual, scope and dmm and know how to use them. Careful, there's a lot of voltage on those CRTS..

I read OP's lamp as discharge lamp then downloaded the SM from elektrotanya , saw 3 CRTs and stopped at that point.

Loss of red on a colourwheel projector (thread farther back) I decided was wrong colour temp of the lamp , too blue although looks ok by eye, outside of the service adj range. Placed a rose pink filter over the output lens to trade a bit of luminance for a better red

I have opened up

I missed that part when I responded. If the filament is out on the red CRT only, it's a piece of cake. While it's possible to have an intermittent f ilament, the possibility of it happening on this series Panasonic is almost statistically insignificant.

Look at the bottom of the red CRT socket board, and check for bad solder on the filament pins. The red filament might be wired to the green board, th en down to the flyback area of the HV sweep module (most likely source of t he filament in these models). Nick says the SM is available on line, so dow nload that and trace out the wayward filament voltage.

Over the years I have come to not give advice to non professionals in the f ield, but these days it is getting hard to find anyone to actualy work on t hese CRT based sets, so here goes.

The "coming back at increased intensity" is probably perceptual. Your eyes will adjust to the lack of red and then everything looks red. I could under stand it happening if the set has AKB but I know of no Panasonic CRT based RPTVs that used AKB.

I'll have to generally agree with what soemone said about Panasonic project ion CRTs, they last. When there is a failure usually it is one tube and it is totally dead. It doesn't come back so that rules it out pretty much here except for an intermittent short. That is very rare in Panasonic RPTVs.

The first thing here is to beat the shit out of it. Take the front panel of f and use a screwdriver or something to "disturb" the red CRT socket board. If it causes the red to come and go it's probably just a matter of resolde ring the joints.

However another thing my experience has taught me is that Panasonics have s ome pretty wierd failure modes sometimes. They are almong the only sets in which I have found transistors that simply stop transisting. I mean the ohm meter will say they are good but they simply do not amplify. I do not know exactly why this happens more in certain brands, it could be where they buy the parts from or it may be their design. I had a no red Panasonic about a year or so ago that was just that. A small signal transisor on the signal (not CRT) board that simply stopped working. There was no possible external reason for its failure, like many times you see a bad transistor you find out that something else blew it. This was not possible in that particular c ircuit.

Once solder joints on the CRT socket board are ruled out then you need to m onitor voltages. Once the red cuts out, turn up the red G2 just to confirm it is not the CRT. Make sure there is NO red before you do this. It is high ly unlikely but concievable you could have a shorted vertical yoke winding or an open horizontal winding. This is rare as all hell but in this case tu rning up the G2 would cause a phosphor burn. Be VERY observant, maybe even look directly in the tube to make sure. Turning up the G2 will give you red , but not with video. It will be what is called a slick screen with retrace . Once you see that you know the CRT is not at fault so return the G2 contr ol to it's original positon as closely as possible.

After that, the simplest way for a non pro to proceed would be to get good with a soldering iron enough to change a transistor. One of the transistors on the CRT socket board will likely be on a heatsink. Maybe not, but it wi ll at least be a "tabbed" transistor. That is most likely the video output. Exchange the red one with one of the ones on another CRT socket board. The n wait and see if the other color diappears or still the red.

If still the red you're in trouble. If I remember correctly, Panasonics usu ally use emitter drive to their video outputs which means the transistor be hind it has to handle some current. Without a print it can be hard but not impossible to find the set of three predrivers or whatever you want to call them. On the PC board you might not be able to tell which is the red but y ou should be able to tell there are three of them and all the same configur ation around. Rotate them.

That means after you are sure that those are video drivers, take A, B and C and switch them so it is not B, C and A. Know what I mean ? No matter whic h is which, when you rotate them the red one will either be in the green or blue circuit, the green one will be in either the red or blue, and so fort h. Does the red still cut out or does another color ?

If it is still the red I would highly suspect the jungle IC. A possible exc eption might be if the set has component inputs, but that's a longshot.

This is long and involved sounding I know. That is why TV shops charge mone y. Actually at work I wwould use a scope and find it quick, but we do not e ven take in these sets anymore. We do service a couple a month on the road, but if it has to come in it doesn't, it goes to the tree lawn.

Shame because the new stuff is so unreliable.

It should read "so that it is NOW......."