Nooby question Panny TC-P65S1 plasma tv

Buddy of mine shows up with a car running terible, could not get out of its own way. He had taken it to Mr. Goodwrench and they ran the computer on it , the big one, not just the easy method. After scratching their heads for h ours and charging him a diagnostic, they told him it needed a new engine.

I took a look at it and I had to scratch my head a bit as well. See the boo k said it did not have a timing chain, it supposedly had gears. Finally I t old him to tear down for timing chain and guess what. He stopped by later w ith the pieces of what used to be the CHAIN tensioner.

Some sources say that code if for a short. Well there is a problem with tha t theory. They detect a short by one of the sources going low, not by actua lly monitoring the current. So you can't know if the problem is a short or a fualt of some other type in the power supply.

I have had two exact same model numbers of TVs be completely different insi de. It is more likely this in serial number up to X, but after that is more likely that in the later sets. There is no substitute for actual troublesh ooting, using the service AID - the trouble code(s). They do not actually d iagnose themselves.

If you insist on fixing it yourself, replace the cheapest board first and m ove on up in price until you hit the right one.

Until now I have been able to power it up by holding the power button for around 10 seconds but it isn't working anymore. From what I can find online , there's a problem with the A board. Is this something I can change with a verage mechanical and electrical skills? Could it be just a firmware proble m?

I've resurrected a lot of gear by replacing bad capacitors. I was looking o n badcaps.net and someone said they "After replacing those stressed 'lytics ," - your Panasonic model - all the high Voltage primaries - it still didn' t work. But those weren't the bad caps. I've only seen ONE switching power supply that lost a high Voltage cap. The vast majority are in the control l oop and the output caps. Often they are bulging but not always. If they ARE bulging they need to go. I've seen no surface mount caps that bulged but L OTS (LOTS!!) of bad ones. They are THE WORST for failing but are some of th e easiest to replace. I use a cutter with a very thin nose and cut them out . Do NOT cut at the bottom as you'll tear off the pads. Cut the cap at the seal crimp point and then remove the seal disc. Then clip off the wide part of the leads, remove the plastic base and un-solder the old flat leads.

Make sure you buy GOOD caps, not the everyday junk at the local supplier. P articularly for switching supplies, you want high ripple current (low ESR) and long life units. DigiKey's online catalog is easy to deal with and I bu y LOTS of caps for work. Mouser is another good source.

Take pictures so you can get it re-assembled as it was.

G²

D. Until now I have been able to power it up by holding the power button fo r around 10 seconds but it isn't working anymore. From what I can find onli ne, there's a problem with the A board. Is this something I can change with average mechanical and electrical skills? Could it be just a firmware prob lem?

on badcaps.net and someone said they "After replacing those stressed 'lyti cs," - your Panasonic model - all the high Voltage primaries - it still did n't work. But those weren't the bad caps. I've only seen ONE switching powe r supply that lost a high Voltage cap. The vast majority are in the control loop and the output caps. Often they are bulging but not always. If they A RE bulging they need to go. I've seen no surface mount caps that bulged but LOTS (LOTS!!) of bad ones. They are THE WORST for failing but are some of the easiest to replace. I use a cutter with a very thin nose and cut them o ut. Do NOT cut at the bottom as you'll tear off the pads. Cut the cap at th e seal crimp point and then remove the seal disc. Then clip off the wide pa rt of the leads, remove the plastic base and un-solder the old flat leads.

Particularly for switching supplies, you want high ripple current (low ESR ) and long life units. DigiKey's online catalog is easy to deal with and I buy LOTS of caps for work. Mouser is another good source.

We bought the TV from Best Buy. Extended warranty expired 1.5 years ago. Fr om what I found online, the A board is bad. This is where the input wires p lug into. I'm not sure where to buy it from without getting ripped off. Can someone point me in the right direction please? Geek squad price is $350 f or the part plus $150 labor.

Also a way to look up the part number and price of the part would be a huge help.

Thanks! Rich

LED. Until now I have been able to power it up by holding the power button for around 10 seconds but it isn't working anymore. From what I can find on line, there's a problem with the A board. Is this something I can change wi th average mechanical and electrical skills? Could it be just a firmware pr oblem?

ng on badcaps.net and someone said they "After replacing those stressed 'ly tics," - your Panasonic model - all the high Voltage primaries - it still d idn't work. But those weren't the bad caps. I've only seen ONE switching po wer supply that lost a high Voltage cap. The vast majority are in the contr ol loop and the output caps. Often they are bulging but not always. If they ARE bulging they need to go. I've seen no surface mount caps that bulged b ut LOTS (LOTS!!) of bad ones. They are THE WORST for failing but are some o f the easiest to replace. I use a cutter with a very thin nose and cut them out. Do NOT cut at the bottom as you'll tear off the pads. Cut the cap at the seal crimp point and then remove the seal disc. Then clip off the wide part of the leads, remove the plastic base and un-solder the old flat leads .

r. Particularly for switching supplies, you want high ripple current (low E SR) and long life units. DigiKey's online catalog is easy to deal with and I buy LOTS of caps for work. Mouser is another good source.

From what I found online, the A board is bad. This is where the input wires plug into. I'm not sure where to buy it from without getting ripped off. C an someone point me in the right direction please? Geek squad price is $350 for the part plus $150 labor.

ge help.

TV is working again! I found the Main (A) board online for $229 which inclu des a $50 refund when I return the bad one. So net cost with shipping is ar ound $190. I was amazed how scarce this board is for a 4 year old TV. Just about everyone was out of stock. I assume these are refurbs too. I plan to get another one to have as a spare as it seems this is a common issue with this model.