Any one got any ideas as to how to identify the frequency for the lock/unlo ck function? And if I do, how easy is it to find another transmitter at th at frequency which controls a simple on/off switch?
Model unidentifiable though I am informed that UK models of this make only used two frequencies, 315 and 433 Mhz
US models however used different frequencies. Curiously enough people say that the 315 and 433 Mhz fobs can be bought but the mysterious american on es can't. And that since the car was built in the mid 1990s, technology ha s moved so far forward (on a simple on/off switch??) that the technology is obsolete and new fobs are unavailable; and that I have to buy another rec eiver unit and matching fob at a cost of $600!
I lost one key to the (dealer-mounted?) immobilizer, and went to the company in Magdeburg, who sold millions around 15 years ago, when immobilizers got mandatory in Germany. They had a little plastic bag with the remaining couple of hundred rfid-chips. When they were gone, there were no more...
Get a spectrum analyzer, set it to sweep from about 170 to 500 MHz, put fresh batteries in the remote, put the remote next to the spectrum analyzer input, and start pushing buttons on the remote. You will see a spike on the spectrum analyzer display when the remote is transmitting. Narrow the sweep on the analyzer to find the exact frequency.
If you don't have a spectrum analyzer, you might be able to use a scanner radio to get close, but not all scanners will cover the frequencies you need.
If no remote, the frequency *might* be written on the control module inside the car - either on the case or on the circuit board somewhere. Maybe.
It is 99.9% likely that it isn't this simple. If it was, the bad guys could use about $200 worth of portable equipment to unlock any car on the planet.
Usually, the way it works is that if you still have *one* of the original remotes/fobs that came with the car, you can use that one to "learn" a new remote to the system. New remotes can be had for US$100 or less. The "learn" procedure varies, but basically you have to use the original remote on the car, push some buttons to put the car control unit into into "the next guy you hear is your new friend" mode, and then push some buttons on the new remote.
Some aftermarket auto parts stores like Autozone, O'Reilly, NAPA, Pep Boys, etc sell new fobs. They have looker-uppers on their Web sites that just need make, model, and year.
If you have *zero* of the original remotes/fobs, you typically have to buy a new control module and new remotes. This gets expensive, starting at maybe US$200 on up. It is probably cost prohibitive at the dealer, but perhaps not at a junkyard. (Remember, as long as the junkyard has just one of the original fobs that goes with the control module, that's enough... you can buy a new fob and learn it in.)
I like the "Pick-n-Pull" chain of junkyards, but they may not be in your area. The going rate for a control module from them is $20 or $30; I don't know what the fob sells for but it's probably less than that. At any junkyard, they probably keep the fobs in the office; ask.
Since you didn't say what car it is, I just randomly picked some mid '90s cars and checked at Autozone.
'95 Ford Crown Vic $50 in stock, $63 order '95 Chevrolet Caprice $45 aftermarket, $79 original, both order '95 Toyota Camry $95 order (for dealer-installed system)
"Order" usually means two or three days. All of these say they come with instructions for doing the "learn" procedure; some of them have a toll-free tech support number as backup.
I struck out with Chrysler, Honda, Nissan, and VW, but that doesn't necessarily mean that there are no remotes available for them.
Standard disclaimers apply; I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned.
I suppose this thread looks a bit troll like if viewed as a ' the frequenc y isnt the important bit, it's the codes which matter' question.
But what I am being told is that the reason I cant simply order a new fob i s because (as I said) technology has moved on and security companies arent doing things that way now. I accept that there werent just a few possibili ties then and potentially millions now.
BTW I didn't understand the bit where I said that I have a lost fob and the perceived wisdom was "put fresh batteries in the bit you have lost, put th at lost bit which you are trying to replace next to an Android phone with W iFi Analyser installed, and start pushing buttons on the bit which isnt the re"
I understand your confusion. My car came with two fobs, and both still work.
It's difficult to believe that the car's manufacturer cannot provide you with /some/ solution -- especially as they know that their failure to assist you will mean you will never again buy one of their products. Of course, maybe they're just plain stupid.
But what I am being told is that the reason I cant simply order a new fob is because (as I said) technology has moved on and security companies arent doing things that way now. I accept that there werent just a few possibilities then and potentially millions now.
BTW I didn't understand the bit where I said that I have a lost fob and the perceived wisdom was "put fresh batteries in the bit you have lost, put that lost bit which you are trying to replace next to an Android phone with WiFi Analyser installed, and start pushing buttons on the bit which isnt there"
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What is really interesting is why you keep the make, model, and year a secret. Did you steal the car?
You have been given several suggestions, including:
- Ask the car manufacturer.
- Ask a junkyard/wrecker.
- Ask an aftermarket auto parts store.
I would also add "ask Remotes Unlimited, at
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". They supply some of the fobs sold at aftermarket auto parts stores, and claim to have a wide variety available. I am not affiliated with this company in any way.
You have not disclosed which ones of these you have tried (if any), or what the results were (if any). You do claim
which sounds like BS from someone who wasn't really interested in helping. In my experience, this sounds like something from a car dealer parts department - they either don't have the parts anymore (even though it may be available in the world from some other vendor), or they feel you're going to balk at their pricing for the parts on a 20-year-old car.
As has been noted, maybe you're trying to break into someone else's car. The fob suppliers have experience with that question too, and may be giving you a canned answer if they suspect that is the case.
This is sci.electronics.repair. If you want to solve your problem, you're in the right place. If you just want to whine about the cost or unavailability of parts, we're not that good at being a hugbox. Try Tumblr or something.
Well the manufacturer now says that the fob for my car's VIN is a 315MHz on e or that all fobs they sold in the US are 315MHz frequency. Which is a bit odd as a parts supplier in the UK told me that he can get 315MHz and 433MH z ones but that the other (foreign market) ones are no longer being made.
RemotesUnlimited were unhelpful in the extreme, though she agreed that the frequency is irrelevant. When I asked about 315MHz systems, she said that all systems are different, some are 315, some are 325, some are 433MHz.
I couldnt figure out how a 315MHz system could also be these other frequenc ies and saw her answer as a snow job. When I tried asking her if it was po ssible to program a code into the system she gave me yet another snow job, though she did say that her answer might be less of a snow job if I could l et her know who manufactured the system.
However, the local dealer says that for a few hundred bucks, they can progr am the code into the remote (or maybe they meant program both with a new ma tching code). They seemed quite sure about this and even quoted me a not p articularly exorbitant price to do this if I can get the basic fob.
RemotesUnlimited started to get very limited indeed when one tries to ask a bout fobs from manufacturers which arent on their very limited list, and sh e said they dont do remotes for BMW, Audi, Honda, Jag, Rolls, and a whole l ist of other makes.
(BTW CONGRATS On pronouncing my name: Most cant figure it out)
No, though I am not being particularly fair: The H has become mis-entered and should really be an A. The emphasis, if anywhere, is on the third syllable, depending how you count.
gram the code into the remote (or maybe they meant program both with a new matching code). They seemed quite sure about this and even quoted me a not particularly exorbitant price to do this if I can get the basic fob.
** There is plenty of info on car remotes on the net - Google it.
Seems the common scheme is to make each remote with unique code built in - then have the vehicle's engine computer adopt that code when set to "learn " mode. This may involve turning on the ignition and pressing a few buttons inside the car.
However, one must first obtain a remote fob that is compatible with the car model in terms of radio frequency and code format.
I have come across both 24 and 40 bit rolling codes which allow billions of possible codes to be generated.
What this probably means is that there were a lot of those fob's made
20 years ago, but there are not in stock anymore.
You are in the same situation as somebody looking for an oilpump for
1926 Oldsmobile Mariana. (Fictional car) They still make oilpumps, but they don't fit a 1926 Oldsmobile.
I think you gave the impression that you have lost one fob, but have another. In this case there often is an (obscure) way to learn the car to accept a new key,when you have the old. If you don't have any FOBs you are probably lost.
(Unlike newer cars, where bad guys can get the equipment to re-program the car to accept new keys, and do it in few seconds, so the insurance company can claim that you have been careless with your keys and refuse payment
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)
If it's only for locking and unlocking the doors, and you can do that from inside the car, you can just get an aftermarket remote lock kit,
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For little more, you can get complete immobilizer and alarm systems, but perhaps you need to get somebody with the proper skills to mount it :-)
Btw, this dealer told that the rfid-chips are not (only?) being registered in the receiver when they are learned, they are actually being programmed by the receiver (which then is a sender...)
This rfid-chip I have to touch the receiver in order to deactivate the immobilizer, it is not a remote car lock.
I tried to learn the receiver to accept a rfid-chip for injecting into animals, but it didn't work.
It would have been cool to be able to deactivate the alarm just by touching the reciever with my forearm ;-)
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