Didn't find a can, so almost certainly it's a tantalum. Good catch, i probably would have replaced it with an electrolytic if you hadn't said anything.
Hoping to get this thing put back together later this week. Been way too busy to get to it 'till now. I'll let you know what happens.
I now have correct voltages on all four pins of the PA module in transmit mode, but still almost no power output -- I suspect a bad PA module, at this point. Reinforcing this is the fact that I appear to have more signal on the input of the PA module than I have on the output.
I think I'm going to set this one aside and just use it as a receiver; at this point it's not worth spending much more time on, unless I run across another IC-28A with a different problem.
Your assumption is most likely correct... I can give you an idea how ever.. If you can remove the cover of the module, and inspect the board, you may find a crack. You'll need a high temp soldering iron to put it back together.. This is common with RF modules or various types.
I've done this 3 times already on different rigs and it worked. Most of the time a crack develops, mostly from abuse. Other times, you have a bad module..
That's the guts of the VHF power module from my Kenwood TM-732A radio. The circled areas are where I had to solder the trace back together. The two failures were seperated by about 2 years and will probably continue at the same interval. My guess(tm) is that it was caused by either incomplete baking of the hybrid, or a bad solder paste mix when the hybrid was silk screened.
The gaps were almost invisible and very difficult to see. They would have been far more visible if I could have shined a light from the back, but there's a big copper heat spreader in the way. Instead, I found them with an ohmmeter. I started with the probes at the end of the conductor trace, which showed no continuity. I slowly moved the probes closer to each other and eventually closed in on the break.
Soldering was also rather difficult. The ceramic hybrid is a wonderful heatsink and literally sucks all the heat out of the soldering iron. I had to use a rather large 850C screwdriver solder tip and still managed to do a lousy job of soldering.
Also note on the photograph the two big power xsistors. The goo covering them is rather soft and flexible silicon rubber. Please resist the temptation to push on it, or you'll break the wire bonds underneath.
If desperate, you can get replacement PA modules from RF Parts.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
I use a mini gas torch that has nice tips for soldering, no flames get in there but the tip gets hot as hell. The heat sink has no chance of holding back. :)
ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.